MOJO90

Thanks to all for your help. I will set the nut between 70 - 120 and align split pin and hope all will be OK

Thanks for the help. Steve - what is the torque pre-load metre? I only have a standard torque wrench (i.e. set required torque and it slips when reached. I have replaced the seal and the drive flange not just the seal - so my concern is if the new drive flange will require the pinion pre-load to be set. Although if it does I don't know how to and to be honest I did not check it before I removed the old seal so i don't know if it was correct before. There has never been any problems or 'noises' from the rear of the truck so I guess it must have been set OK

I have read Les' article on rear diff seal replacement and searched but can't find the answer I need. I have 1984 '90' with a rover rear axle (at least I think it is - it's same as the front axle)with castellated nut and split pin. I replaced the seal following Les' artcle but the drive flange was grooved so would not have stopped leaking so I also replaced the drive flange. Les's article says "torque up the drive flange nut and fit split pin" but I can't find what torque to use anywhere (even in LR workshop manual). Also reading threads on here there are comments about pinion pre-load. If I have only replaced the seal and the drive flange do I need to 'mess' with the pinion pre-load ('cause if I do I haven't a clue). What torque should I use on the nut and if the split pin hole does not line up do you tighten up or slacken off to the nearest hole? I note from threads that 'Hybrid' is a diff expert so hopefully he (or other expert) can help me out? Thanks, Graham.

This should be one of those simple jobs but as usual... Standard 90 rear suspension with standard shocks - replacing lower bushes with new standard rubber ones. Trouble is I can't compress the rubber enough to get the lower nut on the thread. Compressing the springs or jacking up suspension won't work as it just pushes the shock piston into the body - no help to compress bushes. Problem is that a past owner has welded a washer on the lower mount due to wear but that means the shock thread is no long enough to go through bushes and mount with enough thread left to fit the nut. Any ideas how I can compress the rubber bushes to expose enough thread to screw nut on - even a couple of threads will be enough to get it started. Cheers, Graham

Not sure if this is the right forum so mods please move if not. Local council (Bolton, Lancs) newspaper had article about a countryside forum. They are asking local people to get involved in having their say on use of the countryside around Bolton & Bury (lots of it but little or no green lanes)- they want all interest groups including 'off-roading'. I am posting this in the hope that someone from the local area may be able to get invloved and maybe GLASS? As I have not yet been off-road in my truck since buying it and re-building it I don't really feel knowledgeable enough to fight the corner for green lanes. I have no doubt there will be lots of ramblers there trying to close every potential green lane in these areas. According to the article there are details on the Bolton council web site. If anyone knows any GLASS member that can get involved or wants to get involved can they mention this post? I think this is the link http://www.bolton.gov.uk/website/pages/Countrysidelocalaccessforum.aspx?bid=2660

I have an early 90 on coils. Stripped front axles following Les's excellent article in tech archive. When I removed the drive flange lots of oil poured out so I presume the seal at the back of the stub axle is leaking? No problems with strip down (gob-macked reading some of the horror stories about corroded nuts, etc.) but need some help with the stub axle. Can I replace the rear oil seal on the stub axle with the needle roller bearing in place? How do I get the needle roller bearing out? If I take it out will I be able to put it back or will it need replacing (seems to be in good condition)? Can anyone tell me where to find the main axle part number (I realise that I may have a 'hybrid' axle built from parts off different date axles)? PS: Will also replace hub oil seals although they seem to be OK and the bearings are OK as well. Thanks, Graham Sorry forgot to add that swivel hub is Railko type so expected to see phospher bronze bush at back of stub axle (not needle roller). Is this a possible upgrade or can I expect to find more differences from the original axle? (10 splines on diff end of half shaft with 24 splines on outer end of CV joint - not pulled CV from shaft as it seems to be in good nick also.

Thanks Les - great advice as always. Pat (Professor?) thanks very much for your offer - can't PM you as my email client is on the blink. Unfortunately I am up in wet and windy Lancashire so too far away as the only option for collection is the 90 and that's (still) off the road and will be for some time. Last owner went through some quite deep muddy stuff so I think I had better check out the timing cover but when it was running it seemed to be OK. For now I'll put all my efforts to get back on the road and then have some fun in it - then I might look to getting a 200tdi conversion - if SWMBO agrees

Done several searches on the forum and found lots of advice on this subject but I am still confused My truck is '84 90 with Sherpa lump fitted. This all stared because I have just replaced wading breather pipes to gearbox, trannie and axles and was looking for the wading plug holes. Found the clutch housing one no problem but can't see the one for timing cover. I read on here that Sherpa no good for wading due to timing cover not being water proof. Read also about other differences in timing gear, housing and injector pump (Les Henson says it is the same but Frida T says they are different). Engine swap was done before I got the truck (from 2.25 diesel) so timing cover may have been changed to defender one by previous owner. So my problem is how do I tell which timing cover has been used and can the sherpa cover be made waterproof by using RTV sealer or is it not that simple? A photo of a LR 2.5NA cover and a sherpa cover would be very helpful. If I have to go for the LR cover, then can anyone give a definitive answer on the differences and help with part numbers? Also anyone have any used LR 2.5NA bits they can sell cheap? Finally am I right in thinking the 12J engine is the LR 2.5NA, 15J is the sherpa lump and 19J is the LR 2.5TD engine?

Thanks or all the advice. Bought separate parts from LR Series today. What seems like lots of very low cost itmes soon add up!! Just got the pleasure if doing the job when the parts arrive

1984 LR90 with leaking LH swivel. Does not seem to be too much play and the balls are not pitted. Looking to buy swivel seal repair kit from MM4x4, Mail Order 4x4, LRSeries, etc. Which is best buy - Bearmach or Britpart? I know best buy is OEM but a) being lazy, b) can't afford it, c) SWMBO won't let me spend it!, d) hardly use the truck - not many green lanes in Lancashire

Thanks all for your advice - went out and bought one today - and a nut runner and cut off saw - and a regulator/oiler - bit more than £13 spent!!

wots the view on Aldi air impact wrench for occasional use? Worth £13?

Stuntman - did you see my reply to your earlier post? If I can get this link to work then this was the post - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52011 This picture looks similar to the old switch on my 1984 90. The terminal numbers I gave in the post are off the back of my switch. I removed it from the truck and then connected it to a battery and bulb so I could check the output on the switch positions. You could do the same to check the terminal output/numbers are correct and corespond to the list I gave. Once you know what terminal is permanent live, ignition fed live and 'spring loaded' feed (to starter) it is quite easy to identify the right wires from yor wiring diagram. If still struggling what age/model truck and what colour wires have you got at the steering column switch position?

I had the full loom out of my 1984 90. It was a replacement by someone else using a newer truck loom but there were mucked up wires all over the place so I decided to strip it out, separate the loom and then re-build it getting rid of any surplus wires. Bulkhead to rear section easy to get out - more difficult to get back through the chassis - I didn't bother - fitted some external cable protection and cable tied to the top of the chassis rail. Front section from b/head to lights also easy to remove. More time consuming is loom from instruments/column to fuse box and through bulkhead - lots of dash has to come out. Not a problem for me as I am doing the "routine defender repair" - start on one job (wipers), then go onto next and before you know it all the dash is out, the floors up, tranny oil replaced, etc One day it will be on the road again What I did find is that most of the electrical problems came from corroded connectors so I have done a lot of replacement of these as well.

Not sure if this is same or not. My defender is a 1984 2.5NA diesel and does not have glow plug relay. I have rebuit my loom and by using a battery and test lamp have sussed out the following for my loom. Since I am not yet on the road I have not been able to fully test but what I have tested seems to be OK. Terminal 5 = Brown cable thick - main feed from altenator Terminal 1 = white cable - Ignition feed to fuse box Terminal 2 = Brown/Red cable thick - to glow plugs (non-relay type wiring) Terminal 3 = White/orange cable - to ignition fuse no 4 then to heater blower motor and to white cable that goes to the fule shut off valve Terminal 4 = white/red cable - to starter motor relay and to brake check relay. I have done some 'reduction' in wires as my loom was from a later truck (not installed by me) and I have simplified it so there may be some differences in colours and final destination. Hope this is of help

I'll try to pick-up a few posts at once. I know this sounds daft but the best specification used is to 'sweep blast' the (new) galvansing then apply a 2-pack epoxy primer. We did a lot of research and found an epoxy MIO(Micaceous Iron Ore)to be best for adhesion (adhesion to new galvansising is difficult hence the sweep blast or T-wash surface preparation) but any good 2-pack epoxy primer will do. The sweep blast is done with a fine aggregate that is non-metallic under low pressure so as not to remove too much zinc - but I'll bet most of you won't want to do that to your shiny new chassis! The next best system is to 'T-wash' (this is an acidifed copper sulphate solution)and can be bought from industrial paint suppliers. T-wash is best applied with a brush to 'work' it into the rough galvanised surface - if it has reacted properly the zinc will turn black. You need to wash off the excess T-wash after it has reacted with clean water and then allow to dry before painting. Then apply the 2-pack epoxy primer (1 or 2 coats) then the top coat (probably black would look best but your choice). Other 1-pack paints can be used like solvent based vinyl paint (my wrought iron galvanised gate is painted with a vinyl paint by the guy who made it and it's stil OK a few years later) but DON'T use an ordinary alkyd paint (the solvent based glossy stuff you paint your internal house woodwork with. The metallic zinc can react with the alkyd paint and undergo a reaction called saponification (you get a soap like residue as the paint breaks down). If you can get it powder coated then even better but it still should be properly pre-treated as above and make sure it's a proper epoxy powder system. If the chassis is new then paint it while off the truck so as to get to all of it - once it's on it will be harder to do. These are the best options but you can opt to just degrease the galvansing and apply the paint but it may flake off in places due to 'patchy' adhesion. Also if the paint is very thin and 'porous' then water will get to the zinc which will then 'white rust' pushing off the paint in time. If the galvanising is 'weathered' - it shouldn't take very long especially under a vehicle on our roads (a guess but probably a month or two depending on time of year) - then the 'zinc salts' (see previous post) need to be washed off with fresh water, then allow to dry. In this case there is no need for T-wash. Suitable paints as above. Despite all said about painting galvanising - if it is a good thick galvanised job then it will last for many years on it's own - the paint just helps extend the life so if it came off it would not be a disaster. Many may choose to leave it in the galvanised finish.

Galvanising is a form of sacrificial cathodic protection. Galvansing is hot dipping in metallic zinc. The zinc is more active than the steel chassis and 'corrodes' in preference to the steel - this is how it protects the steel. The rate of 'loss' (by corrosion)of the zinc depends on the corrosivity of the environment. Salt water is more corrosive then fresh water and so when there is a lot of salt on the roads the rate of loss of the galvanising will be greater. However, it is still only microns per year. Keep the rate of loss down by regularly washing with fresh water. The other thing is that zinc forms 'soluble zinc salts' (known as 'white rust') when exposed to water and some of what you can see will be zinc salts and some will be surface loss of zinc as is intended but accelerated due to the strong salt water conditions. The life of the chassis will depend on the thickness of the galvanising - once all this has gone then the steel will start to corrode but you are still looking at many years - far longer than steel on its own, and longer than the best paint system (and that's from a guy who specifies paint for corrosion control in the offshore oil industry). In the paint industry we sometimes use so called 'duplex' systems of galvansing plus paint to extend the life of the galvansing. This does work as it slows down the rate of loss of zinc and extrends the life BUT galvanising is often not easy to paint successfully. Actually it is easier to get paint to stick to galvanising once it has been weathered BUT you need to make sure all the soluble zinc salts are removed with fresh water (not always that easy) - otherwise you can get osmotic blistering (blisters and lifting of the paint) over the salted zinc. You can inject the box sections with Waxoyl and either the same or paint on the outside to extend the life of the galvansing but it will last a long time even if you don't. You may find that the paint comes away from the galvanising from time to time due to the salts I mention above - you will have to scrape back to firm edge and wash with clean water, dry & then reapply the paint in that area. Hope this long reply is helpful.

Thanks Red 90

Thanks for all the advice. Just one other question - if I use the diff lock and brake is there a risk of breaking a gear tooth as I don't have access to an impact wrench? Thanks

I am replacing front output shaft oil seal and have read all the threads on the forum - some good help in there so thanks for that. All make the job seem very easy. The seal leak is not that bad but I have the box drained and thought it may be as worth doing at same time. I have removed propshaft bolts and can see big nut in middle but it seems to me that the flange and nut turn together. None of the threads really explain how to stop the flange from turning and I may chicken out if it's a major problem. Is there a special tool or some other way to hold the flange from turning? Anyone know what size is the nut on an old 1984 LT77 transfer box - and tightening torque? Thanks.

Cheers Western - I will need this thread

I did risk replying once before on the subject of painting chassis but got 'shot down' so I didn't bother to try again or to explain that I work for a major industrial paint manufacturer (not Jotun but one of their competitors) who supply offshore oil platforms. So at the risk of getting shot - here goes again Best way to stop rust is to stop it from starting in the first place and galvanising is the best option from new as it protects both the inside and outside of box sections and will do so for the 'life' of the vehicle. (Don't tell my boss I said that 'cause we sell paint!) Once corrosion has started it is not easy to stop. First you need to remove all the water soluble iron salts (chlorides and sulphates - this is what the Jotun guy was refering to) by high pressure water washing and then blast clean the steel to remove all visible rust, then paint with a two-pack epoxy zinc rich primer and then an underseal or waxoyl over that. Obviously you can't do much to remove rust inside the box sections of a non-galvanised chassis, so all you can do is to try to reduce the rate of corrosion by using something like Waxoyl injected inside - you will never stop it though - only slow it down. As blasting the outside of the chassis is not really an option for most of us then the next best option is to pressure wash to remove soluble salts, then power tool clean to remove as much rust as possible, then exclude the elements with a really good paint system. A zinc rich primer is not really suitable for a power tool cleaned surface and for these surfaces the best bet is to use a 'maintenance primer' designed to 'tolerate' power tool cleaned surfaces - such as Jotamastic 87 or similar from most major industrial paint manufacturers (this is not a recommendation for Jotamastic or for Jotun Paints - just following the thread). An alternative is to use something like Waxoyl but it is not as robust as an epoxy paint and will not last as long before it needs re-applying. I would be tempted to use it over the epoxy primer as a second 'chip resistant' layer (Waxoyl is soft and 'smears' when impact damaged rather than chipping off which some 'hard coatings' might do).

Thanks to you all - I knew I'd get an answer from the forum - just what I need- at least now I'll get some luke warm air

Put back together my heater only to find I have lost the small spring steel clip that clamps the outer cable to the heater box . I have looked in LR parts book and there is no part number for this - just the complete heater assembly Can anyone suggest where I can buy one of these clips or an alternative way of holding the outer cable to the box? I don't think a cable tie will work.

Anyone suggest best (cheapest) place to buy Waxoyl and applicator (on a tight budget as her indoors getting fed up with all money I am spending on the truck )? Need to do chassis internal and external and door internals so will need quite a bit. Thought Halfords might be too expensive and didn't find much on EBay.