elmscroft

Hi All, I am finishing off a rebuild of my 90 and will be fitting a Warn m8000 winch And was wondering what sort of battery set up to go for. There is a double battery mounting tray under the passenger seat which I would like to use and along with the standard alternator, I have the mount and a 120amp alternator to sit on top of the engine. The winch is only occasional use. Any pointers, brands or suggestions welcome. Thanks

Hi All, I realise this may have been covered sereral times already, but our leak come in via the rear electric switch that operates the sunroof and only now and then. I've poured water over it and no leak, but if parked slightly downhill, it leaks. Would this point to the rubber seal, although it looks good, or the frame? Just dont want to strip out more than I need to. Thank You

Hi All, We are starting the process of putting "our Rocco" (Defender 90 300 Tdi) onto a new galvanised chassis. Rocco is mainly used on road as he should be towing, carrying, moving family and some off-road for charity fund raising. Whilst we are on a lean budget, we are looking for ideas to improve what is already good. Improvements that have worked for you or may not have been as good as you thought. He has a winch, so were thinking of fitting second battery with its own alternator, mounted on top of the engine, bracket already made. but also ideas or solutions to rectify some of the aluminium corrosion and buffing up the faded black grille and headlight surrounds. Currently on BF Goodrich AT's, these will need changing in the near future. Any suggestions welcome, it may help others along the way. Thank You

Hi Griff, That's what we used and adapted it to the previous Nanocom. It says key is sync'd, but still not working. Thanks

Hi All, We are trying to program a suspension remote to a 2001 Discovery Td5 Auto, using the first Nanocom on 2.oo firmware and a laptop. We are going to the Valeco BCU page, then keyprogramming, (although there is a "remote suspension plip"), then selecting suspension remote at the bottom of the the list, then set code, which we have, followed by sync the pressing the fob. Once sync is done it says it is successful, do we need to update that page? but plip does not work, engine running, doors shut. Has anyone done this? Do we need to enter code in Suspension plip box and on key programming pages? Do we need to update everything? To add insult to injury, water is hanging by the sun visor, is there a drain hole in sunroof about there? as only started leaking since i cleaned and lubed sunroof rails. Thanks

The one with the protruding outlet, is a later 'modified" type.

Thanks everyone. Some very good suggestions. Will keep you informed on progress.

Getting Series 2 back on the road.Few jobs to do: 1: The gauze soldered on the end of the fuel pick up pipe, in the petrol tank has seen better days any suggestions for better alternative? 2: Headlamps always seem dim. Advisory's on several MoT's changed units to Sealed Beams, but no better. Could it be wiring? All new, but homemade.

Thanks Les, just difficult to see where it is exactly coming from, can get a proper Bosch regulator by mid-day, so will run with that. Just amazed at the pressure and how quickly the tank emptied. Thanks for your input.

Hi All, Update, having thought about it overnight, thought bolts may have been loose, but checked and stripped today, bolts were still at correct torque, so now thinking, perhaps the Fuel pressure regulator has failed. Would it come out of there at such a pressure? reluctant to put hand in direct line of spray. With regard to the M&S lights, could it be gearbox has faulted, as when I lost power, it would of meant the truck, may have thought it was being towed? only guessing. Any Ideas? Thanks

Hi All, Just returned after sitting on M5 for two hours. With some tools and engine cover removed, looks like the Fuel pressure regulator gasket has failed. Up against a bit as due to tow caravan to France on Wednesday. Replaced Fuel Pressure regulator (FPR), Gasket and O rings, 500miles ago. FPR was advertised as a Bosch part, put when arrived, didn't appear to be which, seller did admit. If the FPR was to fail, would it cause gasket/O rings to fail? ie over pressure. On trying to re-start engine, M&S green lights were flashing, but not before we stopped. Could this be another issue? Time scale for parts is my main concern. Any input welcome. Discovery 2001, TD5 Auto, 60,000 miles. Thanks

After one failed pump,new one fitted, and figure up around the 80kPa. MoT now in hand. Happy Days Thank you to everyone for their input.

Hi, That's a figure I've been trying to find. ERG removed, but pipe securely plugged. Fitted a secondhand, pump that a friend was confident was ok, but poorer figure than mine. But now no was sort of figure i should be aiming for thanks.

Well, just an update, All caliper pistons cleaned and lubed, new master cylinder, new brake fluid, cling film test done on servo, all ok. Pedal still doesn't drop on start up. So tomorrow off to MoT man to see what he has to say. Thank you for everyone's input. Fingers crossed.

Just to clarify if servo, would it not effect efficiency on the front? When I fitted the new servo, it came with a new O ring which I slid onto the plastic extension of the reservoir that goes into the servo, discarding,what seemed, a more shaped seal fitted to it. Is there any other way of testing the servo to confirm the new one (genuine part) is faulty old one is u/s. Thank you again for everyones input