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Posts posted by Serious Series
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Check the starter motor drive gear has the same number of teeth as your old one.
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Is the engine mounting not just a choice of two locations was on my 2.5 15J diesel which is the same design engine block.
HNJ engineering do a metric drive dog bolt and drive piece.
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Glencoyne has done some good modifications , based on his reputation I choose to buy them from him.
I had already bought some same design from ebay they where way harder rubber.
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Company called HNJ engineering make a drive dog and longer bolt to fit the 200tdi crankshaft .
I have what I believe is a Aeroparts capstan fitted to my landrover.
I made some of the drive parts but had the UJ.
I believe a defender steering UJ would be adapable.
I have some drawings of other parts I made up for the disengagement linkage.
Drive member
http://www.hnjengineering.co.uk/pages/products/capstan/fairey_capstan.html#metricdog
Longer bolt
http://www.hnjengineering.co.uk/pages/products/capstan/fairey_capstan.html#tdiscrew
Shear pins
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Cheers lads had lubricated them to help them slide in , left it overnight in case of shrinkage have now cut them off approx 0.8m above surface as per manual.
Will coat the bearing cap vertical joints with some sealant when I fit the Flywheel housing and its associated gasket.
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Ashcroft HRT does have the dog teeth.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/the-series-vehicle/high-ratio-transfer-case-kit.html
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After some advice from experienced engine repairers.
Damaged my 200tdi engine when crossing a river by getting water into the intake.
Currently have the engine stripped and apart from two bent conrods the only damage found so far is lower skirt of No4 cylinder bore has this piece fractured off it.
The piece is 10mm at the highest point will I get away with dressing the fractured edge so it is not sharp?
Lower part of piston does come down as far as the damage.
I actually suspect the bend in No4 conrod has been there for awhile as firing order is 1342 and the bend in No3 was totally locking the engine.
Both Conrods had to be cut to remove them
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One of your supplies to the isolators has an earth fault on it or some times they have a fused supply linked across the isolator to feed small items like clock or radio.
If you leave the connection on it .will eventually drain your battery
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Try running it with air hose off then block air inlet with palm of hand , this will some times suck the crud out of blocked jets.
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Depends what engine usually inlet manifold on petrol 2.25 diesel needs a flap arrangement on inlet manifold , 2.5 diesel has vacuum pump.
Some people have been using a electrical vacuum pump.
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Is this the right one to fit a series 3 resevoir without servo.
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Should be a washer with a lug and hole in it on one of the gearbox mounting bracket bolts hook goes from there to similar washer on bottom of operating rod
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Six days and no feedback ?
Come on let us know how it's going.
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The ball for the transfer lever does not appear to be fitting correctly in the bracket of the lever / shaft.
Have you fitted the lower pivot point in the correct position?
Ie the right side of the alloy casing at base.
from memory think the steel should be at the rear of the alloy of the casing.
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Suffix D gears have coffin shaped teeth easiest place to see this is on primary pinion internal.
2nd gear engagement teeth will be coffin shaped on D box and the synchro to match
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Think I tried that extra terminal for additional gauge lights and it only came on with headlights.
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Browns are extra's
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Is the ball on the selector end of the gearstick located correctly or maybe badly worn or the locating screw worn in the alloy housing
Capstan Cunundrum
in Series Forum
Posted
Comparing your photo to another I have it looks to fit the new plate ok.
You would not need the bull bars if winch fitted in Series position.