storm99

Ok, 1st mistake, jetwashed the chassis so its ready to be waxoyled, shortly after this the landy began to 'chirp' a bit under acceleration in each gear. Been getting steadily worse the past couple of days, now it sounds like skippy, flipper and the brazilian rainforest dawn chorus. I feared it was the gearbox but its coming from the right of that, under the handbrake, very difficult to pinpoint. In neutral or in gear but stationary its fine and i can change gear no problem, its just the 1st few seconds of acceleration in each gear, it will sit fine at 60-65mph. Got under and looked, all i can see is that the UJ's have a little surface rust and theres about an inch of play in the propshaft. I will order new tomorrow when i can... Does this all sound familiar to anyone or am i chirping up the wrong tree? Mark ( 1987 2.5N/A diesel 90)

Ok, i have a 90 thats just begging me to take the roof and sides off and get sunstroke, but isnt it going to look silly with 1 piece doors? Why it isnt fitted with the good old 2 piece doors like the series landys is beyond me..anyone got experience fitting series doors to a 90? I really dont want to drive with the doors completely removed as my 9 year old has a habit of falling asleep and as he is my only loinfruit it'd be a shame to shovel him off the road and return him to my ex in a bag after our fun weekend together. So if anyone has 2 doors and a tailgate for sale.......

Excellent. I have been waiting for the weather to get warmer and i bought a house only on the basis that it had a very large workshop attatched!! I cant wait to get started really but if you have the time to send me advice id appreciate it, no rush as it will be a month or so before i can throw myself into it. thanks a lot!

yep, denmark, i am english though, from stafford...whats this 'mop' business? and how many coats of cellulose would i apply? Sorry for all the questions...its a 1st time job and i want to do it right!

I do have a compressor but have never painted with it...afraid of splatter etc if the nozzle fouls. Would i have to mix a thinner with the paint if i decide to spray? What are you paying for cellulose paint may i ask? I will be ordering from the UK as there appears to be nobody here in denmark that stocks vehicle paints at a sensible price.

Ok, so i've decided on the colour, ive booked a week off work and im gonna paint my 90 with brush and/or roller. I will be ordering the paint from Turners Trade Paints as recommended by various people on the forum as they are coach paint specialists. My dilemna is this, which paint should i order? The synthetic (also known as coach) paint, 2 litres is more than enough according to them...or the cellulose based paint, of which 6 liters would be required. Any experiences good or bad appreciated. Also what primer should i use, theres no mention of this on their webpage. Prices would also be a help.. any ideas per liter? Thanks, Mark

have done that...no noticeable difference..

Hi, theres probably a good thread on this but i'll ask anyway. i have a 1987 2.5N/A diesel, I've noticed that its started to smoke (more) under acceleration or when going uphill. Its not dreaded black smoke or white, its not using water and the oil needs topping up about 1ltr every 1000miles (not too bad i reckon). Its grey smoke, the engine runs smoothly still, no nasty rattles or coughs. I notice it more at night when others are approaching from behind, i can see in my side mirror that its a constant stream but not huge plumes indicating certain death!! Does this sound normal for an older diesel? Its done 150k miles so it should have a lot of life in it yet. As i say, it cruises fine, sits at 65mph fine, just smokes uphill or accelerating. Thanks, Mark

hi, I am getting a lot of oil showing on the wheel rim of my 90, obviously a seal or gasket has gone on the wheel hub. Can anyone give me a part number or name for this as i'm having a bit of trouble finding it...thanks, Mark

as sure as i can be, no play in the uj or the a frame ball joint, quite a bit of rotation on the propshaft where it joins the diff...

and question nr2... i have a lot of play in the rear diff and its clunking every time i change gear or drive over a hole or bad road surface, how do i know which diff to order without removing the original first, as far as im aware there are various types with differenr number of splines...mine is a 1987 2.5N/A 90

1987 90 landy, recently jumped in and noticed that the biting point for the clutch has changed, used to be about halfway, now its nearly fully to the floor before engaging/disengaging. Not using any fluid so its not leaking from the slave cylinder, and i've travelled about 300 miles in it without complete failure, just seems odd. Not crunching into gear...i'm stumped, any ideas?

Well on examination today the 3 way hose from expansion tank to motor and radiator is leaking when the engine is running warm, looks like a couple of coke bottles filled with coolant and water will be my companion until i get the hose delivered from the UK...thanks for the tips, just hope i can survive until then!!

I will check the level in the morning, unfortunately the temp guage has not worked since i bought it a couple of months ago...have to get that sorted, i hope its just the cable, it ran 50 miles to work this evening without steam coming out from the bonnet anyway!!

I'll have a look under the bonnet in the morning when i get home...really looking forward to the 50 mile trip as its -3 in denmark and just started to snow...typical...

The cab heater in my 2.5 N/A 90 is blowing cold all the time, plenty of power in the fan but no difference whether the lever is on hot or cold...any ideas? Mark

hi Brad, sorry to hear you are still having problems. I bought a 100Amp battery, with a CCA of 850 and thought 'righty ho..loads of start amps..sorted.' but it was still just cranking the engine over and not firing. Damn, thought I. Up to my neighbour whos a mechanic, lets look at the glow plugs...sure enough 2 problems. Firstly there was a really bad connection on the second glowplug so basically as its a 'daisy chain' arrangement the pre-warmer was only heating 1 plug!! It sounds like I was a muppet but it was really not easy to see that the connection was broken on the wiring. Secondly, 2 of the plugs were, to put it simply, carp. Something you cant know unless you take them out or, as in my neighbours case, have a voltmeter that gives you a reading whilst you hold the key in pre-warm position...so its a 2 man job. As soon as the plugs were changed and the 'daisy-chain' repaired she started 1st time every time. As for a 30 second pre-warm...i used to do that with my 62 amp battery, now im gradually reducing it every time i start in the morning. I'm down to 12 seconds today! Im sure i can get under 10 but im a bit obsessive so doing the 1 sec reduction is easy for me! It also depends of course on the weather, your battery size and how long the land rovers been stood. Hope this helps..as i was often told by my regiment seargent...'keep it simple,stupid'. Easy to overcomplicate a problem by ignoring the evidence. You have power and fuel...im sure its heat you need to achieve combustion. Let me know....Mark

Excellent, looks like i can order the correct, and much cheaper, springs!

Thanks, do you have a link or web address for mostly? Let me know when you have the springs off, if its not too far ahead in the future i may buy. Mark

I am trying to order parts for a 1953 series 1. I have quotes from craddocks and Dunsfold but they appear to differ!! Front leaf springs from Craddocks will cost me 76 pound each if they are 'narrow' or just 28 pound each if they are normal. How do i tell the difference? I can see on thear website that the 'narrow' ones are for 1948-51 models..have i been misquoted? Rear leaf springs. 1948-1953 are 110 pounds each!! But only 36 pound each if SWB 1954-84. Are these for a 88' SWB and therefore dont fit a series 1 80'? If so why are they advertised under their series 1 parts list? Confused!! Anybody got any ideas or advice on how i can do this within a budget? 220 pound for rear springs is a lot! Anyone got a good used set for sale? And neither site can help me with bulkhead outriggers..can anyone out there? Thanks, Mark (in denmark and itching to get started on this project)

thanks for the replies folks, only have internet at work at night so hence the delay. I'm aware there was no turbo diesel in 1983/4 , i am coming to the conclusion that the vehicle has just had a N/A engine thrown in at some point as the turbo motor wasnt so reliable, maybe it gave up and the owner didnt trust putting a new one in. As for the chassis, the numbers look original and all match up with VIN plates, stamped on chassis, reg doc etc. I am now guessing that the vehicle, whilst MADE in 1983/4 was 1st REGISTERED in 1987. May have been on a farm or something before. I live in denmark and today re-registered it here, MOT'D it etc, no-one has done a check on the numbers apart from making sure they all are the same as on reg doc so i'm going to let it stand there, whilst i have had to pay a little more in import duty as a 1987 than i would if it was 1983/4 im willing to take that chance as when i sell it i will get a few hundred quid more for a 21 year old car than if it was 25 years old. Anyway, thanks for the help....i was a bit puzzled but im not going to lose any sleep over it now that im registered, insured and driving. Yippee kai ay

I recently bought what i thought and what is described on the reg doc as a 1987 2.5N/A diesel 90 hardtop. However after checking the VIN nr on various sites it should be a 1983/4 2.5 TD if that chassis nr is correct. I have found the chassis nr stamped onto the front side of the spring mount/chassis and sure enough it corresponds to a 1983/4 TD. Now i can understand that the engine may have been changed from a turbo to a N/A however i have no idea why the reg doc says 1987 as this doesnt make any sense... If i now inform the DVLA that its a 1983/4 i will have bought something (private) that is 4 years older than i realised and consequently the price will be affected a little...however if i dont tell them the new buyer will have the same problem.. Any ideas what to do and whats happened here??? Thanks, Mark

well in that case mine is a pre 1984 2.5TD when actually the reg doc says 1987 2.5N/A.....cant see whats been changed, the engine or the chassis strike that, i know its a N/A engine...so the engine AND the chassis have been changed????

i bought a 1987 2.5 disel 90 recently and was warned about a dodgy fuel tank sender unit, however i decided to completely ignore this advice and when it fell to just under half on the guage i ran out of diesel...totally astonished i was. Now i threw in 5 litres from a jerrycan and drove 1, i repeat, 1 mile to a fuel station....i then filled up the grand total of 38 litres. And before you ask yes it was pouring out of the overflow as i didnt expect to stop so suddenly! I have since this never driven more than 180 miles without filling up (300km over here) and its usually 30 litres to fill her up, so 10km/litre which aint bad ( i think thats about 28-30 mpg). I could either run her dry again on purpose after filling up to check the capacity but i cant be arsed honestly. As far as im aware its a standard tank, so thats about 45 litres, 10 gallons. Hope this helps the original question, but never trust it anyway....i'm going to get a sender unit one day, after the ex-wife, the kids, food, blah, blah blah......

hi Steve, im after all the outriggers, all lights and lenses, propshaft, exhaust, leaf springs...what you got, where do you live, i am in the uk frequently..Mark markbyrnedenmark@hotmail.com