Andy_LR90

Just for the record I used the bar against the radius arm method but I like the idea of the jack to apply pressure, in future thats the way to go I think, THANKS EVERYONE

Fantastic, Two answere in the time it took me to have a brew and get warmed up a bit, I can now go back out and try the above, many thanks Andy PS yes new nylock nuts.

Hi I'm trying to refit my track rod after removing one end to allow me to get the radius arms off. When refitting the track rod pins back to the hub mounting, the nut is spinning the whole pin and I can't get it done up. What do I need to do?

Can anyone recomend a good specialist Land Rover mechanic in the Brigg/Scunny area, need to get a bit of professional help! PS not Duckworths.

My starter has been playing up for ages and I knew it was knackered, so I invested in a replacement which was bought paid for and, stored on a shelf in the garage for the last 3 months. The existing starter finally quit this week outside Wickes in S****horpe in the pouring rain. The fact that I had a new one on the shelf at home was only a small consollation. There can be few this more useless than the new replacement part not fitted. What instinct drives us to carry on knowing that something is going to break sooner or later? In my / this case pure idleness!!!!

New one fitted, thanks to all who posted for your help.

Are you sure? I ask as the old old one was fitted with slider near diff end. It's a 2.5 petrol, year 1986, Ninety? Can some one please confirm as new one has already arrived from Paddocks. Can't see it in the workshop manual.

I wondered what the plastic coating was called, yes its peeling and damaged........so new one on order today

I have my front propshaft off to do the CV joints. When I try to slide the propshaft on it's splines it's very stiff, all cleaned out and greased up but still stiff. Should the splines be easy to slide or not? I'll get a new one if needed but want to be sure not wasting my money.

Tested the current as above and I had .57 amps with nothing on, found it to be the 12V lighter socket, so pulled the fuse on that and no current draw with everything off, so do you think I have a short on this circuit then? BTW 1986 2.5 petrol 90 with LPG

My 90 has been playing up and I've had the battery on charge overnight. When cranking it over this morning I thought I could smell burning and on checking inside...........I found ..the earth cable, which is a length of braded cable not insulated but it was burning / melting it's way into the battery casing. Is this ammount of heat normal and is it just that I need an insulated earth. Or is my starter drawing far too much current? Ideas, suggestions please?

Had the same problem on mine recently, the instructions from this site were excellent. I did master and slave cylinders at the same time the parts are cheap and you know that the whole lot is sound. Slave is a bit of an arse to get to though!!. Thanks to Les Henson for his time spent producing the exellent instructions

Just another point on adding acetone, acteone is miscible with water and any water dropplets in your tank or filter will be picked up and carried in the fuel. OK for a small quantity but not good if there's a lot,

Thanks Steve, just checked and I get 260mm between the spring mounts so I guess it's standard. I have got 5 of these 33 x 12.5 R16s to clean up and spray. They foul the radius arms on full lock so I'll need to adjust the lock stops. They fill the arches pretty well. Although if something inbetween the tiny ones and these monsters comes up on e-thief i may be tempted.

Have a look and let me know what you think, has this been fitted with a lift kit?. I can't tell from the springs shocks etc as all are unmarked, by that I mean unlabled, they are browny rusty etc. The tyres are 205 R 16s