stuckinthemud

Thanks for the information, certainly does look a big job. Perhaps one for sales negotiation!

Thanks, hadn't found anything about this (but also good that you confirm there are few issues with the 4.4). Is the oil drain mod a recall, or something I or an independent can do?

Considering a 2011/12 L322 (TDV8 4.4) and looking for any buying advice. What specifics should I be looking for? Are there any specific problems that I'm likely to encounter in the next 10 years? No stranger to Land Rover vehicles, currently on my third Disco (original and two D2's) so well aware of their "quirks!", but not had a RR before.

I've recently had the head gasket done on my TD5 D2 and now suffering low power. As part of the head work, the injectors were sent for cleaning and checking, quoted as being 70-80% efficient. The timing has been checked after the head work and confirmed correct, as were the injector positions when they were replaced (so the codes match the ECU). What I'm being told is that cleaning the injectors can sometimes cause a drop in performance. Is this the likely problem, or do I need to look elsewhere?

Appreciate the D2 is higher geared than the Defender and it wouldn't normally be a consideration. Had the ECU tweaked a few months back, it's now got enough torque at 1500+ that I'm wanting a 6th gear when motorway cruising, which it would be able to cope with.

Are there any options for an overdrive on a D2? The only two overdrive units I'm aware of are the GKN (no longer made) and Roverdrive. Both are designed for the TD5-era Defender, but the Disco 2 has the same gear and transfer box, so will they fit? Possible issue with the Roverdrive is they are mechanical shift (GKN is solenoid), has anyone tried putting one on a Disco and can the lever be fitted sensibly?

Rad is OK (as far as I know), was replaced about 3 years ago and is externally clean and undamaged. How can I inspect the innards? Water flow issues makes sense, as once I blip the throttle the temperature tumbles, indicating the rad is working once water is passed through it. But could also be a sticky stat. The correct stat seems to be PEM100990 (Cream, 88deg), which should be opening at 88deg. Now, will that open irrespective of water flow, or does it need circulation pressure and will close again irrespective of actual temperature when the flow reduces to tick over?

Thanks for the "upholstery vinyl" hint, often it's knowing what it's called before being able to search!

What is the correct stat for a 4.0 V8? I've currently got an 88deg (cream), cruising the temperature is static around 90, but when idling quite quickly raises to 98-100 and over. If I blip the throttle it will then fall to 92-93 and stay there (thinking it might be a bit "lazy" opening) but after a bit more work (even slow round-town stuff) and then idling the temperature shoots up again, pretty much happens every time I stop at traffic lights etc. Would the 82 (black) stat help by allowing rad flow earlier, or are there other problems I might get? Fan is electric with a two-stage (88-83/92-87) stat in the bottom rad hose, temperatures are being monitored direct from the ECU.

I'm looking for a source of the vinyl material used to cover car dashes. Want something that will roughly match the Disco dark beige interior and has a quality finish (i.e. similar to the existing matt surface, not a cheap shiny "PVC" look). The only stuff I can find is Black. Can anyone suggest sources?

After some suggestions for laning over the Yorkshire moors north of Leeds. The map doesn't show much and I guess the National Park have killed a lot of it off, so looking for any information on lanes that are open. I've previously done the three lanes north of Grassington / Kettlewell, now looking for others. Would also prefer them in areas less popular with walkers!

Aircon stopped working recently, worked out it was the high/low pressure cut-out sensor that was disabling the system so assumed that, after 11 years, the system needed a re-gas! One (garage) re-gas attempt with the proper kit, which failed saying the system had a leak. Any suggestions as to where I might start looking? Are there "usual suspects" that cause failures? Thanks Jim

Aircon stopped working recently, worked out it was the high/low pressure cut-out sensor that was disabling the system so assumed that, after 11 years, the system needed a re-gas! One (garage) re-gas attempt with the proper kit, which failed saying the system had a leak. Any suggestions as to where I might start looking? Are there "usual suspects" that cause failures? Thanks Jim

Looking at a set of new rubber for my D2, and torn between the Pirelli Scorpion STR and Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S. Can't find anyone with experience of the Yokohama, but the reviews seem to indicate that it has a stronger side-wall (better cornering) and better wet condition performance than the Pirelli. Has anyone experience of the Yokohama and could offer any suggestions (it's specifically the A/T-S, I'm aware that others get bad reviews)? Thanks. Jim

Has anyone done an LPG conversion, but rather than the normal under-slung tanks and smaller petrol tank, has placed 1 or 2 vertical toroidal tanks in place of the side boxes in the boot and retailed the full size petrol tank? If so, any chance of some photos of how they fit in the boot? I've currently got the under-slung tanks, but vehicle range with 80L of LPG (about 55L actual) and 20L of petrol is not that great, so considering a pair of 80L tanks in the boot and going back to the full size petrol tank. Jim

A friend of mine is having an intermittent starting problem with their TD5. Most of the time it starts fine. Occasionally, it refuses to start, engine just turning with no indication of firing. If left turning for 15+ seconds it gradually comes to life and starts. This often happens when the engine is hot, which has got us puzzled as it might be more understandable from cold if the engine isn't heating up properly. Can anyone suggest what might be wrong?

My Disco II (TD5) has lost the gear selector spring return, which returns the leaver to the 3/4 position from 1/2. It now sits at the 1/2 position. How easy is it to sort? I'm guessing a spring has come off/broken, but knowing Land Rover it's probably 4 day job to strip!!

There's certainly a change in the throttle rate (30% movement for full throttle in high, 100% in low) as per the handbook, but obviously not running the vehicle at higher speeds in low I'm not sure if the handling changes as well. Reason for asking is that I prefer the longer throttle movement (hangover from my TDI days!) and was considering putting a switch to fool the ECU into thinking it was in low box.

A question for ECU experts! When the ECU senses that it is in low box, what changes - other than the throttle rate - does the ECU make to the behaviour of the vehicle? Are there any differences in the way ACE behaves off-road?

I did, but all the threads I could find were either specific to the Defender or didn't actually answer the question.

Has anyone experience of using the Nanocom on a Disco TD5? I'm considering getting one, so looking for experiences (good and bad) of the unit before I part with the dosh! Is the price pretty fixed, or are there known dealers who are slightly cheaper (not interested in eBay, as all I've seen are the earlier v1 units).