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About mat2495

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  1. Thanks for your thoughts. I don't have to decide right now, so I will probably leave it a week and see if anyone else chimes in good or bad. I suppose at this point in the rebuild I don't want to pinch the pennies to hard. by some vagary of Land Rover's, mine left the factory with series 3 seats in it! Not sure if it was common on the early 110s or not, but I don't think I've seen many like it
  2. Hi All, does anyone have any views on replacement seats they could share? I need a new set of deluxe seats for my 110, and am trying to decide if the exmoor trim set are worth the extra £100 over the britpart ones. Past experience tells me probably yes, but i thought I had best ask first just in case the britpart ones are actually decent. Thanks
  3. I got the 40mm ID, it was a bit tight, but i think 45 would be too big
  4. I bought a length of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLEXIBLE-DUCTING-AIR-INTAKE-INDUCTION-HOSE-COLD-AIR-FEED-PIPE-VENTILATION-TUBE/301742462766?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=600569937242&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 which solved the length issue. I don't think the heater blows hot enough to cause any problems
  5. Just thought I would update this topic, as I hate finding old ones with no answers when I'm looking for something. I got a mate to sanity check the timing belt set up for me, then took the injector pump to my local diesel injection specialist. long story short there wasn't much on it that wasn't knackered. One bill later, I should be picking it up on Friday. Anyway, thanks to everyone for the suggestions, tests, help etc
  6. There is a version of the jaw that Western posted without the standard tow ball, if that helps https://www.trailertek.com/bradley-towing-jaw-5000-kg-capacity and it's even on sale!
  7. Funny you mention that, I had a cam pulley for a V8 where the timing mark was 90° out in relation to the keyway from the original one! and the supplier of that one didn't see why it would be a problem... I did replace the camshaft in this engine, but so far as I can tell it seems okay, though I haven't come up with a way of measuring it very accurately. I will try and get some pictures of how it is set at the moment next time I am at the workshop, but I don't think there is too much to go wrong in lining up dots and arrows etc.
  8. The pump was working okay when the engine was laid up, which I believe was circa 5-10 years ago. And I use the term laid up loosely.. suffice to say it wasn't in the best condition when I got it Compression checks out, no more than 20PSI difference between cylinders, and that was with the battery starting to go towards the end. All around the 370-400 PSI mark Yes, to be sure I re-printed the manual and followed it to the letter.
  9. Well, good news and bad news! the good news is I did get the timing belt set up correctly, the bad news is I still don't know what is wrong. Is there a mechanism in the injector pump to adjust the advance for increasing engine speeds? I'm just thinking if it is timed correctly statically, it would then be retarded at 700RPM, and even further retarded at 1200RPM etc. which would explain why advancing it past 'correct' improved the idle, but it still wouldn't pick up any rev's cleanly. I think it may be time to take the injector pump of and send it away for testing
  10. Oh good, that's worth knowing, I wasn't brave enough to try that last time, thought the fact that it was still on and engine stand probably didn't help!
  11. I upgraded from a cheapy one to the same as Cynic-al mentioned, and found it much easier to get consistent quality flares out of it. Not cheap, but nice to have
  12. Sounds like my weekend plans are sorted then! Be a bit embarrassing when it turns out I missed by a couple of teeth! I was so careful as well as I have never done a 200tdi belt before. I don't know, I'll probably be slandering a couple of the design decisions before I've finished! The correct one is about 4-5mm I think? I know what you mean though, the other one is much wider. Thanks all
  13. TDC verified with a probe down the glowplug hole, which agrees with the timing mark on the crank pulley, and the slot in the flywheel. I'm beginning to wonder about the cam timing as well, I don't suppose there is any way to check it without removing the front cover is there? I know when they are supposed to open and shut is in the workshop manual, but i'm not sure I can reasonably measure that many degrees before/after TDC with any real accuracy. Ah well, timing cover off again it is! Nevermind eh Thanks for the thought, but I would hope this isn't the case as I have re-used the original fittings from this engine.
  14. Righto, time for an update! I got a DTI kit, and set the FIP to 1.54mm of lift at TDC ( I also checked that no 1 was at TDC when the timing mark on the flywheel said it was) and it is actually worse.. 1.54mm of lift is actually less advance than I had tried previously by simply maxing out the advance adjustment. Long story short, unless the pump has got something else wrong with it internally, it doesn't appear to be the problem. Anyone got any other ideas for what could cause clouds of white-ish smoke and the inability to rev?
  15. Thanks Tim, I will give them a call. I agree it should be right, and as you say the flywheel is doweled onto the crank. Is it possible that the boss on the front of the FIP has slipped slightly at some point? I know its tight on a taper, but I have reason to believe the engine came to a very sudden stop before I bought it, could it have slipped then? Its looking at something like 10 degrees out of line, maybe more
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