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Everything posted by simonr

  1. Why don't you make the leg fold diagonally? That would give you more length than the length of any side. Si
  2. Thanks Ed - that's perfect! I've followed a few of Adrian's OpenCV & TensorFlow examples. This looks fairly straightforward. I have a Khadas Vim3 board that was just waiting for something like this! Si
  3. You could reduce the depth of this bit: and have the other slide on top, such that it's still covered by the table top when extended. You could also make the two slides deliberately Mildly pi**ed (divergant) so as you slide the drawer out, it increases the pressure on the slides. That could make it quite solid when extended.
  4. I used a worm reduction motor from AliExpress A flexible shaft coupler - IIRC 10mm to 12mm The ball screw was 1605 type from eBay I was unable to find an off the shelf actuator which would do the job in the way I wanted. The motor has a (low resolution) encoder built in. I've used RobcClaw 15A controllers which will use the encoder plus limit switches to give you closed loop control. In your case, you could just use the limit switches to disable further movement in that direction (using Diodes) - it doesn't need to be closed loop. I used Worm Drives so they would hold p
  5. I had an idea (oh, no, not another one!) which, at the time, I didn't have the facilities to try. Making a louvered grille to look similar to a Defender one, where the louvres are hinged (like a Venetian Blind) so you can open & close the grille via a push-pull cable. That was in the days of my V8 90 - so it really needed the cooling and the radiator getting blocked was a persistant problem. You can buy very similar grilles for Air Conditioning vents - but I couldn't find anything that looked sufficiently like a Defender Grille to adapt.
  6. I couldn't possibly say! šŸ˜‰ I'm looking forward to a photo of what you've built - I'm struggling to imagine what it looks like from your description.
  7. All drawer runners have some flex in that plane. My suggestion would be to mount another runner perpendicular to the first (under the table?) as they tend to be less flexible in the other plane. So the two runners form an L shape looking from the end. I've used essentially this approach on a large door which had to slide out of a wall (star-trek style). I used a pair of runners arranged in a V for exactly this reason. These, in fact!
  8. I have 6 teensy cameras and one chunky reversing camera to give pretty reasonable situational awareness outside the vehicle. What I'd really like to do is figure out how to stitch the images together such that I can look outside with VR Goggles. There's bound to be software for it somewhere! The old van had one window for which I made an insulated (foam board) insert to block it off. It still leaked a load of heat though and I only used it once with it unblocked. I put the window in, because Sarah wanted a window. This time round, she can look out of the 'Window' that looks remarkabl
  9. My Head of Dept actually suggested the same thing! I don't think he was trying to get rid of me? šŸ˜‰. He lives (at weekends) in Truro and I think fancies the idea of using some of his land for some kind of 'Glamping' by building self contained camper pods that could be mass produced on a small scale, maybe in a 20' Shipping container with external cladding to make it look nice. If we ever end up with a (planned) decent gap between films - it might happen! I think you're right though. There are plenty of companies who do CNC Routing but not many people who can design the bits. I could
  10. More or less. They need a constant voltage, current limited charge. They need protection from over-charge & discharge as well as low temperatures. I've used 123SmartBMS for the battery management. It has two relays on board for OK to charge & OK to discharge. The enable inputs of the chargers & loads were a bit variable (active high or low), & some needed isolating electrically - so I connected the relays on the BMS to 4 other relays and a few solid state relays to give me a good solution. The BMS isn't expensive (compared to some) and seems to do a reasonable jo
  11. I have to admit, I'm not a fan of touch screens in cars either. It's not to say I want one - but it's a good way to reduce costs! Personally, I like controls I can find by feel or memory without having to look at a screen. That said, the tesla screens are well laid out fairly intuitive - but the maker does have to put some effort into the UI No, Continental ADAS, making surround-view camera systems for Range Rovers
  12. I've found it's usually possible to cut the ears off with a sharp pair of side-cutters. I've been using them for most things for maybe 10 years. They are available in Stainless too. Much more reliable than Jubilee type clips - which I now only use on things I know will need to be removed soon. I only used the screw type on my fuel pump initially because they were supplied with the pump - but I should have known better!
  13. I agree there are exceptions - but when you look at most ECU's & BECM's with the hundreds of wires, it makes me wonder how necessary it all is. I think it was Mercades who experimented with something like this. I agree it was the intention of CAN but there are better options available with enough bandwidth for error correction and decent noise immunity. I have a friend with a Model 3 who has used the public API to connect to a DIY charge controller - so it will charge when the power is cheapest, ideally from his own Solar. I don't know how much is exposed, but they defin
  14. I've just read through the whole of this thread. I have to admit, I quite like the vehicle. I'm not sold on the external appearance of the new Defender - though I do like the interior and technology. The Grenadeer, I guess is more like I hoped the new defender would look externally. Building it at the kind of cost quoted will be a challenge without volume and a lot of investment - but possible with some 'refinements' (that some of you probably wouldn't like!). There was discussion about the cost of wiring harnesses & electronics being 1/3 the cost of a new vehicle. They c
  15. Well done Ralph. I just used a pair of side-cutters which are fine on smaller clips. I have the proper tool, but I left it, locked-down at work. They are also known as Double (or single) Ear clips - but I've always called them Lemon Clips!
  16. I had the same initially - then replaced all the hose clips with 'lemon' type hose clips which provide a better seal than tiny jubilee type clips.
  17. A simpler way to prime them is just to connect the pump to a battery - and repeatedly connect/disconnect it. Each cycle draws a little more fuel. My fuel line is 6m before the pump and it only took a couple of minutes to prime that way.
  18. This is the fuel pump I used: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154068883719 It delivers the same amount of fuel as the OE pump (checked with a wide band O2 Sensor)
  19. I borrowed a 90 with 2nd Generation Trucklights fitted. Initially, I was very impressed with the clarity & brightness even if the beam pattern was a bit odd. However, it was at Dusk/Dawn that I had real problems seeing with them. Driving on narrow country lanes, the depth / detail perception was not good and after half an hour, my eyes were hurting! In pitch darkness, they were pretty good though. I had intended to buy a pair - but driving with them convinced me that the ordinary lights on my 110 were better overall even if not as bright (or 'bling') - and stuck with them instead!
  20. Yes! Lead Acid batteries don't like continuous trickle charging. A good alternative is a regular charger on a 7 day timer set to charge it for a couple of hours a week. The CTek chargers are about as good as they get - and will only charge the battery when needed, automatically. Best alternative to a trickle charger is a low current (low cost) CTek. I also have a Halfords 'Automatic' charger which uses a very similar charge profile to the CTek - and they are very cheap when on offer. It's not as good bringing shagged batteries back to life but for the money, it's great. I us
  21. I've found a cold chisel (plus hammer) will deform it enough to hold position while you drill it out. Same principle as the pliars - but more satisfying!
  22. Sure - I'll dig it out. https://www.butlertechnik.com/technical_library/thermo-top-c-d27 It's in one of these, probably the Workshop Manual.
  23. A ThermoTop C is a good option. They just switch on & off with a wire and are fitted to lots of cars so tend to be cheap, used. Used is not a problem - they are dead easy to service so long as the major components work. I bought one BMW X5 Aux Heater on eBay for Ā£20 - and it worked fine! The wiring loom had been hacked through but it's dead easy. You can pick up ThermoTop Z heaters even cheaper. The main difference is they are lower power than a C (arguably not what you want). It's worth checking to see whether it's a C or Z as both were used in different BMW models - and I
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