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Everything posted by simonr

  1. Serious answer (to everyone) is to do a bit of research to find the name of a department head and a movie in production via IMDB - and write them a letter care of the studio at which it's filming (also from IMDB). The whole industry is very short of people at the moment - so, even if you wanted to work in costume or hair & makeup and have some useful skills, now is a good time to enquire. PM me if you're interested - I can give you some contacts & tips on how to write to them. The work is hard & the hours are long but the rates are good - and it's fantastic fun! I can't believe anybody wants to pay me for what I do!
  2. I don't actually know if it's the 'proper' gas - but I just googled for it. "2-3% Co2 In Argon is the correct gas to use for welding Stainless Steel" However, Argoshield will work fine - but the 2% Oxygen content will cause surface oxidation. Apparently not a problem structurally, but it doesn't look as nice.
  3. You can weld stainless with mild steel wire - but it's bad practice as the two steels cool at different rates, leading to fractures in the weld. I wouldn't do it on anything structural - but for an exhaust, the only real down side is a rusty patch. You can buy stainless wire (308 is used to weld 304 IIRC) - so, for the limited cost of 1/2 kg of the right wire, you might as well go with that! I've only used it once, and it was very similar to weld with, perhaps a bit hotter for a given power.
  4. Naaa, you'd hate it - playing with cool toys & blowing stuff up - it's terrible
  5. I've made a couple of exhausts out of mild steel, CDS tube (which I had lots of at the time). The wall thickness was about 2mm. I figured that it would take a lifetime to rust through. You can buy swept elbows to weld on, if you don't have a tube bender. The connectors are easily available - but I just went to the local ATS and asked if I could raid their skip. It usually had stainless bits, including muffler boxes that can be adapted to fit. I'm much too tight to pay for a custom exhaust! Making one out of 304 Stainless would be easy. It's not worth using 316 as it tends to suffer more from fatigue. A 304 exhaust, even in 1mm wall will last decades, if not centuries!
  6. Personally, I would start with the engine wiring. At this stage, just strip back any cables that look singed & temporarily replace the individual cores where they are damaged. I would just temporarily bridge the melted connectors at this stage. Then see if it will start. Once you have the engine running, it's worth addressing the mechanical components that may have been damaged - as you know that with the wiring fixed properly, you'll have a running car. If you can't get it running - there's no point in doing much more to it. Replacing whole looms will be difficult & expensive. If you have the time & money, do that. However, just replacing the individual cores and connectors will likely be enough for the remaining life of the vehicle. I've had good results with heat-shrink solder connectors long term, in wet environments. They are ideal for replacing cores without adding too much bulk to the cable. Looks like a nice project!
  7. We have one of them in the workshop - it's awesome! I used it on some big steel on steel pin hinges that someone had forgotten to grease before assembling. With 32 Ton on the hinge, we couldn't push in any grease with a hand grease gun, just couldn't get enough pressure. The battery gun squirted a whole tube in, in no time. The bad squealing noises went away as if by magic!
  8. A fairly clever idea I saw, to protect a RTT was a single cable (steel rope kind of thing) which passed through a loop attached to the roof of the LR and attached (somehow) to the underside of the tent, in the middle. The cable was sufficiently taught that even if you cut the support posts off the gutter, you would still need to reach in to the middle to cut the rope. That requires a very tall person with arms the length a Gorillas to reach. I agree with Dave about combination locks. It's not hard to 'pick' them - but it takes time. They are less suceptable to most of the attacks likely on a key lock (Freezing, bumping, drilling etc). Of course you can cut the hasp easily in most cases. Shrouded hasps are much harder - as there's nowhere to get bolt cutters near and even access with a battery disc cutter is hard. In practice though, a couple of cheap padlocks plus a second layer to make it take longer to steal is probably better than just an expensive padlock. Si
  9. I think you might be taking it all too seriously The impossible physics used to wind me up - but now just makes me wonder how they did it. Sometimes it's CG - but often it's some kind of crazy rig. Now, instead of getting wound up by the unlikely physics, I marvel at the engineering which has gone in to making something behave the way it did, in a controled & safe way. It has allowed me to enjoy the films on a whole new level. This is my favorite example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRgq12XOhjc The "Two Guys" Chris Corbould refers to are Dick & Lou - who are just amazing! When I saw the film - I wrote it off as CG - but then I was amazed to find that it was "real" (even if cheated a bit).
  10. Do you now! I'll give you as much as I can. When the film is released, I'll spill the beans. I suspect though, when you see it, you'll say "Ah - that's what he was talking about!"
  11. Thanks John, A lot of heavy armoured cars are built on F450 or F550 running gear. This one was built on an F550 chassis, made by Delta in Tbilisi, Georgia. The axles were massive - but would probably weigh more than the rest of the car. I think you're right - ill try the initial testing at least with D2 axles (which coincidentally have the same stud pattern as the car it's meant to be!). As you say, we can swap them out easily - and the crew certainly are motivated! The Director shouting at you tends to do that! Thanks everyone for your help. Project starts in ernest today - you've given me a lot of options / fallbacks if something doesn't work! Si
  12. I'd love to chat with Jez again. I figured he'd moved on from all this & probably wouldn't want to be bothered!
  13. You'd have to join the queue! Unfortunately, this movie franchise hangs on to everything!
  14. I'll have a look on FB - I gon't go there much any more, every group seems to turn into a flame-fest for armchair experts.
  15. We have previous for bending them. The scene in Fast9 where they were driving through a minefield - the armoured car was in fact a mog. They did survive about a dozen jumps though. .Err...no...not even slightly similar. It's going to use one of my (daft) ideas for suspension. Simulations in Solidworks Motion look promising. What is the axle pictured? The knuckles look the kind of thing I was hoping for.
  16. Spidertrax are clearly good but fairly expensive. I have a slim budget for the prototype - but a decent one for the final build, if it works. Also hard to get in the UK. D&G are probably the easiest I guess. I was holding Spidertrax in reserve for the 'hero' build next year. Someone else mentioned Evo axles - but there's very little info on line. The same someone also mentioned D2 Axles. It would be easy to chop off the knuckle & glue on a boltable flange. Whatever we use will get boxed in / reinforced heavily to stop them bending in the middle. However, the problem is the front axle where there's not much you can do to brace the outer end, from the spring outwards which will be subject to considerable moment forces.
  17. I'd forgotten the swivels on a Defender were bolted on - that's one good reason to use them. Are any of the big, open steering knuckles used in the US, bolted on? I reckon, using two long shafts would be about right! Good idea that man! Using Land Rover axles on a very American car / film would make me smile on the inside Particularly if they can be made to survive what's in store for them.
  18. I'd hope the vehicle coul come in under 1500kg. It will have a space-frame and an electric drive (Tesla most likely) with a very small (5kWh) battery pack as it doesn't need to travel far, but needs to go fast.
  19. I've been given a project at work, to design a vehicle based on one of the big, old American 'muscle car' Pickups, capable of jumping and landing repeatedly, preferably without bending axles or wheels falling off. The track is likely to be about 70". I hope to absorb most of the impact energy with the suspension (which will be fairly novel, and use Land Rover parts). It will be rear wheel drive with beam axles front & rear. It needs to be based on parts we can get in the UK. I wondered if any of you had ideas for where to look? Van & Truck axles seem to be about the right width - but truck axles at least 'feel' too heavy. It doesn't need a huge diff. We can of course make the front axle tube easily, if we can find suitable knuckles - but I'd prefer to find an off the shelf rear with a diff. I wondered about 101 axles - and lengthen them a bit. I'm afraid I can't give too much away - but you'll understand when the film comes out! We're going to start prototyping / testing in the next few weeks - mostly on the suspension. Any ideas?
  20. This car has some interesting ideas. Some of them will carry forward to production vehicles, but this is, of course, a prototype so I don't imagine a production version will look much like it. I like the idea of using a fabric skin on some parts. The idea is obviously as old as the hills - but has gone out of fashon. Not everything needs to be skinned in metal. Weight is one of the biggest issues for EV's as it directly impacts range & torque required. Obviously it does equally with any vehicle - but people focus on range (as Mike commented on) far more than MPG for an ICE car. To increase the range, you have to add battery capacity which costs - that being the other thing people focus on. A super lightweight vehicle is the obvious answer - you increase the range and reduce the cost (maybe not in the case of this, but in general). One thing I really like is the union flag tailgate. Strikes me it would be very easy to make a Defender tailgate with similar bracing.
  21. Some would consider that as an advantage! Two days less, spent with Mother in Law - what's not to like?
  22. I'm with you on that! A test is no substitute for experience. A guy I work with passed his trailer test then a few days later bought a 3 axle plant trailer and went to tow a mini-digger. He only got a few miles before he rolled the whole rig off the side of a motorway. Wrecked the truck, trailer and digger! I think the test had given him too much confidence - but didn't teach enough about how to load, how to drive, maybe about appropriate speeds. I think mostly it's about the feel of how the trailer is behaving - and what to do about it if it's all going a bit wobbly. That's the thing you only get with experience. I've had my share of frightening experiences towing - but I 'learned' on a small single axle trailer on the back of a Defender. I doubt the trailer could have rolled the LR, regardless of how bad things went - but it soon taught me about weight distribution and the finer points of towing, which actually translate into towing safely. The first time I towed a big (transporter) trailer, it was like a dream! It was stable and I could see it in the wing mirrors. I'm just glad I learned with a trailer where the consequences of getting it wrong were not too serious.
  23. Are you sure your binacle has the translucent bits to allow it to illuminate? My friend has a NAS 90 with illuminated heater controls - and I thought I'd like some too. On investigation, when I shone a torch in the back, no light escaped through the front - so it was not to be! Conclusion, only some binacles have the cutouts to allow light to diffuse through. My 2003 Td5 was not one of them. If yours does (that's great) - just get some 12V rated LEDs & stick them on the back with hot glue or similar. They will never blow, so you don't need to worry about making them easily replacable. Si
  24. Seat heaters are often wired in series with a switch, such that if nobody is sitting in the seat, it does not get warm. Some of them have separate heaters for warm & hot. In your case, I would bet on the latter. I would try connecting say Red & Brown from one branch, via a fuse (maybe 20A) to a battery & see if the seat gets hot. The fuse is there just in case they connect to the switch - and it's a dead short when you sit on the seat. If one pair makes it hot & the other blows the fuse when you sit down, that's a switch. If they both make the seat get hot, they will be two levels of hotness. This puts me in mind of a thread I followed on another forum where someone was putting a Ford Seat in his truck - and was asking what all the mystery wires did. In particular the Yellow ones. People were suggesting just to connect 12V to the wires to see which combination made the seat hot. Knowing a little about automotive wiring, I knew exactly what yellow wires / yellow sheathed wires tend to be 😉 - so I continued reading to see what happened! Further down the page, he had discovered that the yellow wires (as suspected) connect to the side impact air bags - and they had completely obliterated the seat when they detonated. I must admit, I chuckled to myself a little!
  25. I didn't see anything obvious - but to be honest, I wasn't looking! They will come, I have no doubt. Are you thinking about getting one then?
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