wayne1978trucks

Totally agree with the galvanising route as an addition..... but time is against me. (the wifes not chuffed with me using her Transit to tow the trailer) We do have an addition though..... I have been offered another chassis that's popped up out of the woodwork..... A Galvanised one!!! It was purchased new from land rover 15 years ago for a 200tdi and galvanised, the owner of the vehicle now wants a new galvanised chassis under his 200tdi so it will 'see him out'. the guy doing the conversion said 'hey this will do you'..... so I've had a cheap camera type thing up it and inside its mint (there is the odd bit of surface rust because it was never painted or waxed) but that's the one I will stick under the 300tdi. Will get some pics once I start and get a build thread going....... Don't hold your breath though, I'm renowned for buying another Land rover to run around in while I fix this one and before you know it there are 3 waiting to be fixed and I'm going work in the transit. This time its serious though as I've got one chassis on the greenhouse base and the other is going on the patio, the wife i fear will have an influence on progress ha ha. So I've now bought 2 chassis (that I don't have enough money for) To get the ball rolling on the 300tdi workhorse I'm going to use the Galv one (get it T washed/painted black and waxed inside) and then will convert the New 'old stock' chassis for my 17 year build of my old v8 (I will probably get that Galved then once I weld the bits on it.) Thanks again for direction and input chaps. All the best Wayne.

Thank you for your input chaps. I will get it bought.... Im a bit of a nerd for originality and would like to make it as much a Tdi as possible and I've already got a new tank. Which is why I'm not buying a new Marsland chassis. Apart from the cost, I would need to change so much to be happy, I know they will do all the changes for me but the price then got ridiculous. I've got the original chassis that I can steal the rad mounts, engine mounts and gearbox crossmember off and I would get a Heavy duty (standard looking) rear crossmember from GDI, then I just need to make the other bits Its definitely Genuine and never been under a vehicle not even a nut or bolt scratch around any hole. Its been dry stored but clearly in somewhere that's had condensation. I have a cheap endoscope and I noticed inside the chassis there is a light surface rust (where there has been no paint (and some snail shells). interestingly there is a hole corroded through in one spot on the top of the rear crossmember the size of a 5p where its welded to the chassis rails as though it was stored upside down and condensation had rested in that point, no where around it is corroded its as though the factory paint didnt reach up in that corner but moisture did. After all the costs are added up I'm still £2000 below the price of a converted Marsland chassis. Id better get the welder out. All the best guys Wayne.

Opinions guys. I have a 300tdi 110 Van, chassis is rough and finally this year needs replacing or lots of repairs. I have been offered a 110 TD5 Original Land Rover Chassis that's sat in a shed for 20 years and never been fitted and never been stamped, its got the date stamped in as 02 (2002). Its the best I can find for the money I have available and I can transfer the brackets that are different over, so 2 questions really..... 1. Do you think I'm mad in taking away an opportunity for a TD5 owner that would like an original chassis that's never been under a vehicle to restore theirs to factory spec? 2. Otherwise if I get the all clear from you guys I think I'm correct in saying the bits I need to change are.... Rear cross member, Body support rails either side of tank, Front tank bracket on cross member, Exhaust bracket on front of A frame cross member, Cut off td5 gearbox mounts, Radiator mounts and Engine mounts. Many Thanks Wayne.

Got it its a NEEB. North Eastern Electricity Board. The penny dropped when the owner said he bought it off a Geordie that had had it for years. Now here's his decision, does he do it yellow because he likes it or go back to the original colour? (He would of stayed yellow if the inside had remained in presentable condition but after the paint peeled its having a full hit inside and out and under the rear arches, wings and doors are off so all is easy to do and get at for a full colour change.)

Definitely orange, like the G4 orange. everywhere, not on nut and bolt heads but everywhere under the underseal that's been on their for years.... sanded orange back in areas like the roof and its orange then back to alloy.... any steel areas though seemed to have a black etch type primer under the orange. Ralph those sweb look more red to me. I did look at some pics of them though and noticed a lot of roof racks, this thing has had something bolted to the front 4 inches of the gutter (its bent the gutter) and there are signs of drill holes in the roof close to the gutter half way then some at the rear covered with alloy and sealer (better get the tig welder out) so i recon a semi permeant roof rack was fitted. Three point five naa not yellow I've removed that coat(someone had painted it canary yellow (badly) when the paint inside peeled like a sheet of vinyl revealing the original shiny orange I suggested the whole lot come off as clearly prep wasn't high on the painters list, come to think of it neither was a decent spray gun. Thanks again guys

We tried the wire wheel but its really disappeared. ironically the batch number is stamped very deep, if only they;d done that with the vin. thanks Wayne

Thanks guys. Probably right Ralph as its pretty good for a 1986 year. One and two.... maybe correct but this dosent have a dash between the first 2 numbers and the second 2 hes chosen to have it ground off and the front dumb iron restamped so all will match and stop future questions. Thanks again Wayne,

Hi guys here's a weird one, we have got a 1986 110 van in for chassis and bulkhead work. i always check the vin numbers in this instance so if i need to work/weld that area the customer can make a choice on whether to delete it or restamp it. Anyway, the usual area on the front RHS has no number, but slightly pitted so it could just of rusted away however as weve been working around it on the upper edge of the front RHS radius arm mount (under the drivers floor plate) it is stamped with 'BATCH No 9214'. I've never seen this in all the years I've worked on them and wondered what on earth it means? Interestingly or not is the lack of a white roof inside after removing all the paint both inside and out for a respray, it seems it originally was orange all over, any clues? Ex council? Utility? chassis replacement? Any clues appreciated. Thanks Wayne.

Just a quick update gaskets done and its now running alot better in the donor however the brake pipe burst so cant test it on the lane yet, i have also fitted a new viscous fan instead of the knackered electric one, also have a gas analyser on order that will aid me setting the mixtures. i now have a week off but no doubt have a list of diy lined up by the better half. thanks again wayne

Not looked into 'lifting plunger' etc. Take into consideration most things my father and i have owned have been diesels. The v8 and twin carbs are completely new to me. I will do a forum search once back together. Thank you again guys. Wayne.

Sorry about pic quality. Done with phone. I will be doing gaskets over next few days. Thanks again.

Also Guys i wondered, because I have been tweaking the mixture over and over at small increments, would you suggest when ive finally got a setup that works i turn the screws back to the bridge height and back out equally just to make sure ive not gone an 1/8 further round with one of the screws? thanks

Rapid response thanks guys!!! Lo-Fi Ive got no carb cleaner but have got brake cleaner....a little sniff of this drops the revs so i sprayed a little around the pipes and gaskets and the only area it has a difference in revs is at the inlet manifold to head on the LH rear port. So I will get her stripped and new inlet gasket put in place, do you also recommend a smear of silicone on the gasket too? Bowie both of the engine breathers are connected as per standard to the rockers with flame traps (i think thats what they are called) Bowie i will get a pic later but dont judge me on the mess in the engine bay, the engine is being tested and run in in a donor vehicle (which is a knacker) so i dont elbow my wings to death on the csw. One quick question, why when i advance the timing way beyond 8 degrees btdc do the revs keep climbing say up to 14 degrees? my manual says set at 7 btdc but ive heard folk say 8 is better Thanks again wayne

LR101GS probably a late reply, i did realise i had got the bits on a gearbox in the shad as it wasnt the special larger drum after all. thanks for the offer, im sure if you post the bits in the for sale section then you will get takers. thanks wayne

First of all guys ive looked through the forum and cant find a definite answer... We have a 1984 110 v8 low compression engine that ran rough so we checked and fitted the following.... 1. Checked compression, all around 110psi. 2. fitted new plugs, leads, coil, electronic ignition, oil and filter. we then noticed the carbs would not balance no matter what but a previous owner had bodged the linkage and cable and fuel was passing the needle even when it wasnt running. (carbs were incorrect anyhow hif6s) 3. So we purchased a set of SU Hif44s from burlen. We have set it up and balanced it at idle running at about 8 deg btdc and it ticks over beautiful, but when you hit the throttle it pops and farts and wouldn't pull off. We then tried more advance 10 btdc but still no pull however it does idle higher with more advance. We then tried to set the mixture richer and it now pulls alot better BUT the idle has shot up to about 2500rpm. nothing i do seems to get the idle down even unscrewing the idle screws until they no longer touch the accelerator cam. By the way Burlen say the carbs are supplied as standard with correct jets needles and springs, there are no known mods to the engine but all this testing is being done without an air filter on. Thanks in advance for any ideas. wayne

here are some pics of it side by side with my original it did turn up in the brown box with the landrover sticker on it... …. ive also added a pic of the britpart one that's currently available.... is this military genuine landrover item therefore a britpart item supplied to the military?

Don't quote me on this fully but im sure my dim dip relay on my 94 300 tdi is behind the clocks. no doubt ill be corrected.

hi and thanks for the advice, I only have the ebay pics to go off so far, im led to believe it will arrive in the brown box but it looks like the same item britpart sell. hey chadler do you think some parts were supplied to land rover and made by britpart? ive heard sometimes britpart items end up being oem or genuine but not the other way around. At £35 it was a steel, he said it was for his army landrover so I assumed it was a part he had bought in the past but now hes got 2 more listed im curious as to whether its genuine or a reproduction?

Hi guys Ive bought a 'genuine' oil filter housing complete with waxtat control and pressure switch, however on closer inspection of the pics it looks like a blue box item. As I once ….. (yes stupid I know)....fitted a britpart oil pressure switch to a vehicle only to find 5 mile up the road my oil light flickering due to oil spewing out down the side of the spade terminal.....I vowed never ever to use any blue box item, so what is your opinion on the pics of the said item? he claims its genuine and was for his landy but hes now got another 2 listed so im a bit suspicious. thanks wayne

thanks western im rattling the list off now.

mint thanks neil, Ive just found that page and I think with the pic and your input that's the way to go...….glad I didn't spend £70 on the larger drum now, phew🙂 just confirmed the backplate I have got on the box is AEU2733 and the carrier is the one pictured on page 319 item no 4 thanks again neil👍

ive just had a point in a direction.....the attached pic is one off a 110 v8 with an lt95. where I think im getting confused is the gearbox that was in the 110 before was a 355 serial number so was prob a rage rover box with a range rover drum. still confused.

Im rebuilding the b reg 110 csw back to its original spec and found a lovely 13c LT95 Gearbox, however the handbrake drum and bits are missing. on looking in all my parts catalogues I cant find a specific list of part numbers, what more confusing is the drum is the huge one that is usually found on the lt95 part num 90576624 but the handbrake seems to differ from range rover classic and 101fc where they have a lever operator that enters the top of the backplate coinciding with a 606737 backplate my backplate has a hole at 3 and 9 oclock which makes me think a standard expander and adjuster were used however the shoes and drum were the larger one. have I gone mad or do any of you know where im going with this the pic on page 434 of my 90/110 workshop manual 1983-1992 seems to support my theory. ps don't know if this is the correct place to post this or whether it should be in part number requests. thanks wayne

ahh I see I can get hold of a box but its all the bits that go with it that are a pain to source too like the tunnel, rubber mat, diff lock switch, pipework, hi lo operating arm and gearstick, if he is interested and it has most of those bits on it get him to call/text me. did the pm come through with my number on? thanks wayne