diesel66

Thanks Les, just the clarity I needed. Kind regards, Christian.

Hi all, I want to update the brakes on my 109 - presently single circuit servo assisted. I'm going to convert it to dual circuit but I can't clarify which pipe goes where! Rather which port on the master cylinder corresponds to which circuit? Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.

I forgot to mention that when running, no air is visible from spill rail to filter direction only the rare and barely noticeable bubble from filter toward spill rail/return join. However when engine stopped, air bubbles from the spill rail / fuel return start migrating toward the filter. Clear as mud!

An update; the bubbles are no longer coming from filter side (too timid in tightening the lift pump to filter pipe so as to avoid cracked olive), however the air seems now to be definitely coming up from the spill rail join. Yet the spill rail is copper or brass tube with no apparent leaks. Thanks again.

Hi all, I'm in need of assistance as all efforts so far have been fruitless! Engine is a 2.5 NA diesel. Symptoms began as being hard to start the first drive of the day, subsequently fine until left overnight and then same repeated cranking required. Diagnosis air getting in and fuel draining back to tank (?) So found leak from top of filter banjo fitting, banjo cracked so replaced and clear pipe fitted to aid further diagnosis. No difference. Found further marginal leak in lift pump to filter pipe, so removed, olive cracked so replaced whole pipe as only £3. No difference. Suspected lift pump so swapped out with new - no change! Symptoms remain the same. Hard to start first time, then fine,even if cold - runs well no power loss. Able to bleed system fine and will start beautifully after change in filter, pump, pipe or whatever. But when stopped air bubbles start to emerge along clear pipe from top of filter to fuel return main pipe that T's into spill rail. Does this point to main fuel line from tank being suspect? Any advice appreciated. Many thanks. Diesel66.

Hi, having recently had my timing belt fail on my 2.5 na diesel engine, due it seems to a diesel leek past the spindle seal. I was going to exchange the pump wholesale with a known good pump with renewed seals etc. However the good pump I have is from a td engine, can I use it? There are additional feed & return fittings , can these be bypassed, blanked or whatever? Many thanks. Diesel66.

Hi Les, I have checked the supply to the glow plugs but not each individual plug, but had dismissed them as the cause because even when cold, later in the day, the engine starts almost instantaneously. The difficulties are only present when left overnight or for many hours. Is my reasoning correct? I have new glow plugs which I have bench tested, so I could swap them out anyway, just to see. Many thanks & kind regards, Diesel66.

Hi, just after guidance or tips, but I'm flummoxed! The first start up of the day of my 2.5 diesel is prolonged & tortuous, but eventually after turning over for an age all is fine. All subsequent starts are fine even if left for some time & with the engine cold as a very cold thing, so I'm sure it is not heater plugs etc. I have replaced the lift pump for the later 200 tdi type and I feel things are marginally better. But again after being left overnight I have the same issue of difficult starting. Once started it runs beautifully, pulls well etc. Any ideas as to how to locate the cause of the ingress of air? Or are there other likely causes? Thanks in advance. Diesel66.

Hi serious2a, yes the 2.25 clutch is the one to use if you are bolting a series box to the back, as the splines on the 2.5 friction plate are finer & more numerous. I have 2a diesel cover and friction plate and the clutch has been perfect. As far as the mount goes you sadly don't have the option of retaining the existing chassis mount as the 2.5 injection pump on both the n/a & turbo sits too low for there to room for both. The neatest solution I think, is to retain the block bracket on the 2.5 as this neatly goes under the pump, cut the existing chassis mount away completely and reuse the drivers side 2.25 engine bracket inverted and welded onto the chassis, the angles and spacing are then all correct. Sadly I didn't discover this until I had already chosen the cut away, measure, cut away a bit more, then re-weld method! So far I'm very pleased, the engine, luckily, seems healthy & even with the mishaps it has been cost effective. Just got to change the lift pump which seems to have objected to being put back into regular service! Good luck with the transplant & kind regards, Diesel66.

Well it's up and running & all is fundamentally ok! The engine seems to be in good order - pulls nicely and a whole range of noises I had thought were my gearbox, transpire to be the old engine being in far worse order than I thought! The throttle linkage arrangement is via a rod link direct to the cam on the injection pump & essentially works well but needs slight adjustment as I top out at 56mph with some free arc remaining. I retained the series fixed fan, intake & exhaust manifold and I'm utilising the air oil bath filter, managing to also retain the battery tray. So to a cursory eye it all looks as it should. The main issue is that after being stood overnight air is getting into the fuel system, causing me to have to bleed it before the first journey of the day, subsequent starting is super and almost immediate with negligible heat required, research so far suggests that it is likely to be the lift pump, is this correct? Maybe prematurely I've bought the kit that allows adaptation of the later 200 tdi lift pump but I'm unsure as to which pipe replaces what etc. Has anyone any experience of this kit? (STC1190) Just to say a huge thank-you for all the guidance and help without which I would have been scuppered! Kind regards, Diesel66.

Hi all, the fitting is going ok, engine is in but as yet not started, as I managed to shear a thermostat housing bolt & then a drill bit in the remains of the bolt, so waiting on the arrival of a carbide burr to attack it with. Otherwise I think it's going ok! I'm a bit flummoxed by the throttle cable arrangement, as the cable I have seems far too long i.e. the adjustable end that attaches to the crank then threaded rod on the distributor pump has no travel to take up the slack to allow it to engage. It also wont fit into the slotted bracket spacer. Has anyone a picture of how it should be. I am starting to think thast although I checked pert numbers there is just a generic type now supplied as opposed to a specific 2.5 na one? Many thanks for all the replies & help it's much appreciated. Please keep them coming. Kind regards, Diesel66.

That's definitely a really neat solution. I'm stuck though, as I have neither of the parts needed. Local supplier have said they can get the engine bracket for £30! Engine only cost me £50. So a bit miffed. Will persevere, sadly britpart engine mount is so misshapen I'm further delayed. Thanks again for all the replies. Quick extra point in the second pic showing the fuel pipes; which pipe goes to which side of the filter? Many thanks.

Hi, thanks for the fuel line pic very useful! Do you have a pic of the mount under the injection pump?

Hi, thanks for the replies, I have managed to remove the old 2.25 & transferred the ancillaries over - inlet & exhaust manifold etc., but think that if i had a 2.5 drivers side bracket / mount, the cutting and re welding would be simpler (my abilities are not up to Les' welding) Does anyone have one they could sell to me? Foolishly, I was working on the premise that the series mounts were going to be appropriate to adapt (by necessity as I don't have the 2.5 brackets / mounts.) Also, has anyone pics of the fuel lines to filter from the injector pump? Just to try to get it sorted in my head before cutting. splicing or replacing lines. Thanks again for any advice or info.

Hi, I'm wanting to start this transplant this week and just wanted to access any guides or tips gleaned from others who have done this already. I am aware of having to move drivers side engine mount, but what is the best method of achieving this? Bolt it all together "fit" engine tack in place remove engine & weld up? Any other options? Any guidance gratefully received. Many thanks and kind regards, Diesel66.