Bill Shurvinton
-
Posts
77 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Bill Shurvinton
-
-
I'm sure by the time Jez is back he will have worked out how to either run dual PAS pumps or perhaps slave it off the winch pump! hmmm or maybe fit a big GM truck pump...
Wasn't sure at first whether to say ar5e, bad luck or not. But thinking about it I reckon HOFS can be seriously chuffed at getting 2/3 through at first attempt. So when you next talk to him John, pass on my congrats and I'll see him when I go to get the trailer back.
-
Not sure what went wrong for you there Bill, I would have said the extra software took about 10mins to sort out.
the cygwin install I have as part of the MS dev environment was fighting with it and the version of one of the libraries didn't work first time, or second time or 3rd time. and I have a slow internet connection and a very old and slow computer. In the end had to completely reinstall everything.
-
megatunix is good. I run it sometimes on my windows machine (took about 6 hours to download all the extra SW so I wouldn't recommend this if you are not geeky). Lot better than MT in some areas.
Tunerstudio is Java which should make it cross platform (snigger). In theory, you could stick the application and all you maps onto a USB stick so you could swap to a different laptop in seconds (provided it had Java on it). For Rolling road tuning this offers a great leap forwards. I played with an early version of tunerstudio and it ticks all the boxes for dealing with the reasons why so many 'professional' tuners say that they do not like MS.
-
Some people do say the gen1 Ford coils (the most waterproof ones) are less reliable, although I've not seen this born out in practice. Perhaps they fail more on actual Fords where they're mounted to the side of the block, whereas on a Rover V8 the traditional "above the water pump" mount probably gives them a bit more free air, not to mention lower revs.
Also interesting* is that the American coil pack connectors aren't sealed anywhere near as well as the UK/EU ones.
* = Actual interestingness may vary.
If you mean the 3 pin feed from ECU then in my experience both UK and US ones are sealed the same way BUT the rubbery sealing bit generally sits on the loom connector for UK coil packs and in the coil pack itself on US ones.
-
They are right in that it will be only as good as the tune. What they forget to point out is that you can get the tune spot on with time and a little help from those who have done it before.
-
Theres some changes we must make for Vepsskii but they are pretty small (adding some more waterproof storage,
So your ciggies got wet
? -
Hmmmm
On the subject of AE and tuning have just read a very very lengthy article on datalogging and tuning.
Basically it was saying when you datalog and tune with megatune, switch OFF AE Enrichment, but leave EGO Correction ON.
Whilst I understand the logic of this, whats the risks to the engine whilst logging and driving when you hit WOT ??
Thoughts please ?
Nige
AE is only for changes in throttle position
For logging and tuning you want to try and hold steady state so you get clean samples. lots of throttle changes mess this all up and should be avoided. you can drive around at WOT without needing AE, so where is the problem? you just get there a little more gently than perhaps your usual driving style
Bill
-
It very much depends on the engine and intake config how much AE you need. different engines behave differently. AEA is a simplified version of the OEM solution that uses a wall wetting equation to work out how much fuel to add. It is very good, but for a racer you wouldn't need it.
At the end of the day, if you can't feel any problems when with transient events, then you don't need to change things
-
Nige,
slightly confused about what seems wrong. AE only affect that initial boot of the throttle. If its wrong then initial pickup will be poor, but then it will quickly recover. If it seems down on power all round that it is a different issue.
Easiest way to see if you have an AE problem is to log with a wideband and see if you go majorly lean when you hoof it.
And remember, AE is the last thing you setup. It is not a way of getting around a bad map.
Bill
-
Well I could say 'serves you right' for not getting one from UK, but I happen to know Jerry well and am sure I can get warranty honoured.
-
If it wont talk to the computer then chances are there is something up with the LC1. If this is the case and assuming you got it from Phil Ringwood I can replace it under warranty.
Other way to hard cal is to unplug sensor and power LC-1 for 8 seconds. On next power up the unit will do a complete calibration.
-
If installed correctly they give years of good service and are as accurate as you can get without spending 10 times the money.
In certain cases they can be tempramental if they are not grounded properly.
Couple of options.
1. I talk you through the hard calibration procedure what to look for on logworks and the grounding practice
2. You send it to me and I will reflash and recalibrate it and if it is broken replace it.
Rgds
Bill
-
work is pissing me off, so a first few notes on drivability. This is the bit where you tune things for how you want the truck to behave. There is no right or wrong answer to this, just what you want. This is an area where fully 3D mapped ignition is a boon (and a curse cos you keep tweeking it).
Discussing this could run into pages, so a couple of examples to help.
1. crawling (slight cheat here as IAC also involved). If you are in low box and lift off the clutch without touching the throttle a number of things might occur
a.) engine stalls
b.) engine picks up and you crawl gently forwards at 850-1000RPM
c.) engine picks up and you go rather faster than you intended.
All to a degree could be tuned in depending on what you want. I suspect B) would be the preferred option and can be done with a combination of IAC control and an agressive spark map below and above idle.
2. Traction. Now I know stuff all about driving in mud, but I suspect you don't want a vertical torque pickup as this would encourage loss of traction. In this case you might want to considerably modify the spark curve from best power to give you a truck that is easy to drive. Again back on the OEMs they purposely put a torque dip in low down to help with wet traction and town driving.
Just 2 examples of many possibilities. With EFI you have the tools to make the engine behave the way you want it to.
-
But a major point is still being missed on the basics. The Dyno map cannot allow for the effects of driving up an alp with a full vehicle, where you are at high load for long periods, allowing heat to build up in the head and potentially knackering your engine. Well it could if you help it at load points monitoring knock and CHT, but there is rarely time for that.
Good tuners will know what and where to change from best power, but still there is some work needed by the owner to get the perfect map. Ideal ( and used by OEMs) is a timed retard/enrichment algorithm, which starts on best power and then pulls spark and adds fuel if you hang around that load site for any length of time.
back on the dizzy topic. They suck, but are a good starting point. Idle to 3000 they are always badly compromised. If all you have is the dizzy data then there is a good calculator for advance curves I can dig up that calculates how advance should change with MAP and VE. (basically spark curve should start off following torque curve).
A bleeding edge spark map will have a dip at peak torque as this is usually where knock is most likely (depending on engine design).
-
As promised, although this may take some time...
Need to first introduce a few concepts. First of these is load, which sounds easy but can take some getting your head around.
Imagine revving the engine on the drive. The engine is effectively under no load. Now imagine it on the dyno, full throttle, but held in place by the retarder. This is full load. In normal operation you will be somewhere between these 2. But bear in mind that full throttle is NOT full load. If you are accelerating then the engine is not fully loaded. This is important.
Now imagine a rorty V8 that has been tuned on an engine dyno, giving best power advance numbers. If you put that engine in (say) an MGB you could pretty much use the dyno numbers. If you put that engine in a defender you would need to modify them as the engine is under more load in the truck application. If you spent a lot of time towing a 3 ton trailer you would need to modify it more. conversely the truck map in the MGB would result in a loss of power and MPG. But why?
In the MGB you floor it in 3rd and it will set off like a scalded cat (not much load)
Do the same in the defender and it will accelerate well, but not as fast (more load)
Do the same with the 3 ton trailer and it will groan and lumber forwards (heavy load)
The more load you are under the more heat is generated in the engine and the more you have to add fuel and retard spark to prevent overheating/detonation. Of course it isn't quite that simple as in fact the MGB will probably never even reach a bunch of the low rpm high load sites, but the principle is sound. You need to tweek things for the intended use.
OEMs spend a couple of thousand hourse getting from the dyno produced map to the final one. Admittedly a lot of that is emissions and drivability, but a lot is also optimising for the vehicle application.
Next installment will be drivability...
-
There are some good questions being asked. I'll try and answer some of them over the next couple of days. Safe to say that there is a lot of difference between a dyno tune and an optimised spark map for the truck. And this will change depending on what you use the vehicle for.
-
They are cracking engines. QED were getting an easy 250BHP out them with throttle bodies and a cam change. they did a 2l on methanol for a hill climb car that put out 300!
I have a soft spot for V6s even though they drink like fish.
-
I am not so sure that more heat is produced by a slightly richer mixture…….. I will check up…………… but certainly an engine running lean will run very much hotter…….. this is a well known fact that applies to any engine, not only the V8’s.
Peak EGTs are generally at slightly richer than stoich. Think of it this way. At or around 14.7:1 you will burn all the fuel and most of the 02.
At best power mix (usually around the 13:1 mark) you use up all the 02, but have excess fuel, which cools the combustion, giving lower EGTs
At less than stoich there is not enough fuel to consume all the 02 so EGTs are lower.
When people talk about running lean, they mean lean wrt best power mix. so at full throttle 14:1 is dangerous.
At light cruise it is no problem.
-
That picture.
-
You know John, monsterous articulation is no use with 1 wheel wedged against a bank!
-
As Fridge says, the chipwill cost more than the MS install (not counting your time). If you have an engine worth many thousands saying you cannot afford to fuel it properly sounds like a false economy?
-
Worth adding at this point that the Fraud coil backs pack about the biggest wallop of anything out there. You do not need aftermarket ones. And yes, unplugging them on a running engine is more than likely going to get 40kV heading your direction.
-
Yup. I have spend 6 years explaining to people that they have to put effort in to get it to work. It is not a cheap way of getting an ECU as what you save in £££ you have to put in as your own time.
But at the end of it you will understand what is going on in your engine a whole lot better.
And some MS installs are amazing and better than almost anything you would pay a shop to do. Others are a dogs dinner.
-
The cheese is as normal, its the crackers holding it together that are much higher grade
?
Vepsskii Les
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
I'll start looking into getting a couple more spare wheels for the trailer...