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pwam2006

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    Loughborough, Leics / Oxford
  1. Hello all, Recently fitted a 300tdi auto from a disco into def90. The 90 is used off road heavily and when on steep slopes, the auto box jumps out of gear. However you can (by holding the button in) find the right gear again by moving the lever back a bit. Ie on a 30 deg climb 'D' is actually at about '3' on the selector. Any thoughts much appreciated. Ryan
  2. Hello all, Recently fitted a 300tdi auto from a disco into def90. The 90 is used off road heavily and when on steep slopes, the auto box jumps out of gear. However you can (by holding the button in) find the right gear again by moving the lever back a bit. Ie on a 30 deg climb 'D' is actually at about '3' on the selector. Any thoughts much appreciated. Ryan
  3. i haven't read through all of this, so sorry if this has been suggested. but why not the air bags? set your truck up for the greenlaning etc with your OME or whatever. then fit the helper bags to ''stiffen'' the rear end. pretty much best of both no?
  4. We're using VOX from now on, crossing channels shouldn't really be an issue as theres....lots.... of channels. I think on the radios we'll be using theres..8 main channels with ~30 channels under each? Quality probably isn't quite as good as bluetooth though...but is approximately a gazillion times cheaper (especially as I found the one's were using in the loft... )
  5. OK, So it came to the weekend of completing the centre winch.....then this happened.. Anyway, all fixed in one day and now runs fine again (phew) Here's what we settled on for the winch set up. A roller behind the winch that then goes up to the top fairlead. Tested it by rolling the truck onto it's side (as one would to get closer to a punch on a tree or whatever) and nothing broke or bent (well, at least not after we added mroe weld and metal to stop the 10mm plate bending :S) Cheers for the advice and ensuring we didn't blow up the winch! Ry
  6. Thanks Mark, Will spend the weekend staring at it and scratching our heads going on the replies here. Initial plan was to ''try it and see'' this weekend, glad we are now avoiding that. Will post the solution we go with when it has been applied! Cheers again Ryan
  7. Thanks Mark, Shall look into this option too, I found some pictures (not great) of what we've got so far. Our idea, (because its what we had and are runnign short on funds to buy more things) is leaving the fairlead on the rope, and moving the fairlead. So we ahve the rear arrangemnent as shown, and then on teh top of the rear roll cage hoop, some 10mm plate and 20 mm round bar. Such that we unclip teh fairlead from the back, and then clip it on teh top. The only problem being this issue of making teh rope go past the top bar of the winch. As ingenious and resourceful as we thought we were being, it seems this idea is taking a bit of a battering... What about takign that bar out of the winch, but putting extra bracing on the ''front'' and ''top'' of it? i.e. using two bars either side of the corner where the bar used to be? Cheers again, Ryan
  8. This is the sort of reply i was ''hoping'' for. Nice to know before we try! We were thinking of bracing the winch in the same place, but from the outside. Such that in stead of a bar between the two sides of the winch, supports holding it together from the outside...? Thoughts on this solution? I like the idea of the roller fairlead, such that when its pulling back it goes straight through the fairlead, and pulling ''up'' it goes through the fairlead at ~ 90 degrees. The main thought about avoiding this extra fairlead was that essentially the rope would go through a tightish (albeit rotating) 90 degree bend immediately after the winch. Wondering whether this will just lead to rope death. Though I'm all in favour for the rope having a bit of a shorter life over having the winch explode! Many thanks for the replies, some excellent ideas (though couldn't quite get my head round Retroanaconda's idea while at work away from the truck!) , and almost certainly saved us destroying the winch! Ryan
  9. Hi All, tjolliffe and I have been re jigging his challenge truck recently. One of the mods has been moving the britpart winch form teh front and putting it in the middle (behind centre bulkhead) my question is, this winch is expected to pull back, and ''up''. To do this we have a fairlead at the top, and at the back, the problem comes when moving the wicnh from back to top. The line would foul on one of the bars that hole the two sides of the winch together. We are therefore thinking, remove bar.... However we are worried about the winch simply pulling itself apart without this bar in. Has anyone had any experience with this? Will it be ok? or is extra bracing neccessary? Sorry, I thought I had a good picture to show what I mean, but I... don't, but hopefully I've been clearish. Many thanks Ryan
  10. IMHO, if it's just for road, ARB's on, seemed to make a noticeable difference with the standard suspension etc. However with 2 inch lift (stiffer springs) it seemed about the same with them on and off, and every other time I went off raoding, it sheared one of the rear ARB ball joints, which to gets expensive, and also has a habit of eating through brake lines... fail...
  11. Cheers PaulMc, sorry you sacrificed a switch! the light running through it is 55W, so hopefully should'nt wander much above 5 amps, and if it does the inline fuse should pop anyway. The other lights will be relayed, and the switches for them placed in exactly the same place that you have them! (nice tidy job )
  12. I was joking about the 'test until fire' method. I did however hook up everything out of the car and it seems the switch is man enough to run the light (didn't get warm, no fire/explosions), so have installed it with no relay (I did have a relay at the ready, was trying to save on clutter!). I have a 5 amp fuse in line with the power feed, which hasn't blown yet, and I figure that this is a nice low ampidge such that if it was gonna melt/go bang, this would probably pop first. Had a look through the wiring diagram, wasn't immediately obvious that there was a relay anywhere, and I think...that the switch switches the multifucntion unit in someway (so as the foglights only work when the headlights are on..) so perhaps there is a ''relay'' in that? Makes for quite a smart installation, (it even lights up with the rest of the backlit switches ) Going to do the same with extra high beam spots (100W wipacs...think i might use a relay for them!! ) Thanks
  13. Hi, sorry, yes a more useful amount information would've been good wouldn't it! Its the rear fog light switch on a Disco 1 that sits on the dash with the radio control, heated rear windscreen etc. Part No is AMR3751. Cheers
  14. As Les said, though I manage to do it without the 'wobble' drive. Also, sounds silly, but I've found using the hexagonal sockets, rather than the star (lots of teeth) type means that you're less likely to round them off (though the negative of having less positions to be able to put the socket on can get annoying when theres 4 ft of extenders on the back!) good luck
  15. Hi all, Am fitting a work light to the disco, 55 watt halogen. Wanting to use a spare standard discovery fog light switch to turn it on/off. Any thoughts as to whether I can run the power straight through the switch (55/12 =~ 5 amps) rather than have it switch a relay? I can't find the amp rating for the switches... Failing that anyone know if theres a way using a multimeter to work out the amp rating of something..? Though I fear its probably a case of putting amps through it until it gets hot and thats your amp rating....! Ta for any thoughts/previous expereinces/guesses Ryan
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