disco2hse

Fast and powerful hydraulic output requires high power and speed on input. This is a link to a thread here. An alternative may be go PTO. But without knowing anything about what vehicle your running, motive power, capacity, etc. It is pretty hard to say any more.

Apart from it looking like a Nissan Safari and not Jeep, I wonder how you get on for parts with such a small team. Would like to see some video and flex, it's too shiny at the moment. Information about the drive train would be useful too.

I vaguely recall 15º, but I think that's not right (seems too much). There are a number of variables and so the series would be different by virtue of their age and design. http://spicerparts.com/calculators/driveline-operating-angle-calculator

Use a hammer drill. If you have a normal drill with a hammer setting, that will the job too.

Yes, IIRC that is right, the black is the engine vacuum line and the clear and red suck left and right. To be honest I am not quite certain either.

When I had to replace the vacuum switch for the CDL, I replaced the worn out switch on my 109 with a five-way vacuum switch because the new OEM switch was too expensive. One of the things I learned was that vacuum switches work very differently to pressure switches. For the switch to work properly, you need a vacuum (negative pressure) on both sides. The switch itself also needs an open "vent". The switch effectively pulls the valve one way, then the other. So, it won't work properly until the switch itself has been plumbed in correctly. The picture shows the directional vacuum pulls required. This is how it looks plumbed in. Note the air filter for the external air "vent". This stops crud from getting sucked into the switch. The switch engages the lock when the trigger is up and disengages when it is down.

Yes. Clay is not mud and will stick to the tyres. The narrower tyres will at least cut through the slick layer to an extent, but even then I have gone for a mighty toboggan slide more than once. So, when its like that, fit the chains and drive on those. Use diamond pattern chains, not the standard side-to-side ones.

Was the radiator rodded before the rebuild? The viscous fan usually does a better job of cooling, especially when it is properly cowled. Can't see from your photos if the cowl is set correctly. The thermostat remains closed until the coolant reaches the correct temp, then opens to let the coolant flow out of the top of the engine. In other words, it helps to heat the engine quickly from when it is cold, not to cool it down (but it does that too of course). If an air lock exists, It may be possible that the coolant is not circulating correctly. An air lock would inhibit the flow of coolant. I would bleed the plumbing from the highest point. Other suggestions around senders notwithstanding.

Ply is ok provided you seal with epoxy resin every side and and edge, and use glass or polythene cloth on all the joins. Epoxy is not UV stable, so then you need to paint with good paint over that. Two pot is likely to be susceptible to stone damage (brittle), so a hard wearing acrylic enamel might do the job. I used ply on the old trailer (1964) I inherited from the father in law. Ply is 10 years old, get used and abused almost every week, and the ply is still going strong.

These do what you describe. I have them on the 109 V8 and they are good on and off road. They are pretty cheap compared with Michelin and better onroad. This is an ozzie site but sure you can source something locally to where you are. https://www.bridgestonetyres.com.au/dueler-mt-d673

Cool IIRC the angle should not exceed 15º. If it did then it has probably flogged itself out. On mine (Thomas winch, not Koenig), I had a similar problem from a LT95 pto from the upper transfer case output. To get around that required two uj's and cushion bearing blocks mounted to the chassis, holding the shaft into a stable position. Different to yours I know, but just to illustrate an alternative to the single uj.

Thanks, but I said what model, not what brand. There are many Koenig winches that are pto capable, some big, some small, some connect on the left, and some on the right. Google "koenig pto winch parts" and look at the pictures that are returned. You will see what I mean. For myself, I would get new shafts made with suitable ujs at a driveline specialist. The slip joint is a slightly different issue but you can get those fabbed too. The angle of the uj may be the reason that they are chewing out.

What winch model? What type of pto output? What gearbox/transfer case? What do mean "worn"? What do you mean "capable of doing full engine rpm's"? Assume you mean parts number for the winch and not FJ45? If the latter then you are on the wrong forum.

My biggest concern were for the door tops flapping about in the vortex created just back from the windscreen.

OK. My Stage is not restricted and is 3.9 but still carbed. Regularly cruise at +100km/hr (+67.5mph in old money). At 100km/hr engine turns at 3100rpm. Has standard duty springs (not the heavy duty springs it came with), with standard shocks. Corners well but gets pretty light on the steering when over 120km/hr (3800-ish rpm). Top speed reached on the flat about 145km/hr. Wasn't looking at the tacho. Haven't crashed so that removes Matt from the equation. That's the beast in my avatar.