pritch1

I think it would be best posted to me if thats possible, Lets me know costs and ill PM you my address and sort out the money for you. Thanks Matt

I use slime in my 90 and its seems to work well, Make sure you get the tubeless stuff though its bungs holes better. Never had problems with valves as the slime is on the outer part of the tyre wall and i reguallarly air down to 10psi. Dare i say i think it has also balanced my tyre better than ever before, a similar effect to bb's i guess, Im running 35" simex with no balancing weights and it drives much smoother than it did before although the wheels were changed at the time of adding the slime (tyres are the same). Thats my personal experience, although i have not yet had to remove a wheel although im told slime before its set will wash out with water :S

LA say special order from the states. Looking at the llama 4x4 website they only supply up to 11 inch travel dampers, i have tried calling but with no answer will try again later. Any other ideas?

Yea sorry i did mean Explorer UK

Im after some dampers with an extended length between 30 and 31 inch, pro comp have none in stock at the moment and i would like to get out to a play day this weekend. Any one got any other companys which may be able to help me out, im not after spending the earth though. Thanks in advance Matt

Sounding like a no go then. Just out of intrest do they measure from the edge of the body work excluding arch or from the edge of the vehicle (edge of tyre). thanks again matt

so what about jeep headlights they are mounted inside the wings? http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/images/TJ-...T-ANGLED-01.jpg

If you could rich that would be brillant i am wanting to make some wings that V in toward the chassis so was thinking a serise 2 front would look good. Maybe ill mount the lights in the wings again i just like the serise look.

Just a quick one, does anyone know if i can use a serise 2 front panel on a 90, so the main headlights are not on the front of the wings or it is ilegal? I cant remember if there is a reason why not so thought i better check. Thanks matt

Well the breather pipe had come off my rear axle when I was offroading. Unfortunately I was lax on checking my motor over and it has now destroyed my diff pinion bearing (I know its my own fault). So i'm going to have a go at rebuilding my diff. It’s an ARB locker on a 90 if that makes a difference, i have never done one before to be honest but I have access to all the tools and fancy having a go for myself when I come back from uni. (AKA im a skin flint) So how do I: 1. Clean the diff to an acceptable standard it is covered in muddy oil? (I’m thinking a bath of some sort of cleaner but what) 2. Is there a write up for a land rover diff rebuild anywhere? 3, Does anyone know the parts number for the diff carrier bearings, pinion bearing and an oil seal for a 24 spline ARB locker? (Sorry i dont have my epc at uni) Thanks

That was my initial thought to but the tyre binding is stoping the upwards movement on the spring so i think im going to go for some 2 inch spacers just to try out for now and then build some split rims when im ready. So question now is where do i get spacers which will add 2 inches to either side of the truck.

Well my 100 inch conversion is coming on nicely now and i have fitted some x-eng internal springs but the problem im having is that the tyres are hitting the spring seats on full articulation because of the angle of the axle. Never did this with retained springs although i like the idea of having some more suspension travel, so questions are. What are people views, do i? 1. Reatain the springs and stop the full travel? 2.Fit shorter shocks and use very little of the x-eng flex 3. Grind the centres out of the wheels and move them back 2 inches to clear the spring seats? 4.Find some 2 inch spacers that are not gonna fall apart? 5 Something i havent thought about? Im dubious about 3 and 4 because the width of the car will be around 75 inches and this discs will be just proud of the back of the rim but not proud of the tyres. Does anyone run their truck like this and do you have any problems? Thanks in advance

I do believe old fantic trials bikes used them its been a long time since i had mine but i have a feeling it might of been a cone brake. I worked well and never gave me any problems probably why i dont remember it much

Look brillant they very similar to mine wish i had got mine coated though the paint is flaking already. If u find u get alot of mud trapped between the rings it may be an idea to put some water hose in the gap, done this to mine, stops the mud and also stops the ring coaning as much making it easier to torque the bolts. pics here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=what+pressure you can just about see the hose sandwhiched between the 2 plates

I have been given some 1 5/8" steam pipe with a 6mm wall and i was wondering, as im in the process of stretching my 90 if this material would be any good for the tubular A frame and Radius arms. Im not sure of the material properties of steam pipe so i thought i would ask you guys what you thought. Thanks in advance Matt

How about a cylindrical tin or even a little bit of fab, a cheap K and N and plenty of silicone? Or the more expencive route using an inline induction kit

i know im draging up the past but im in the process of doing this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...20&start=20 what are people opinions on what to do with the A frame? remake or extend?

Any one out there ever mounted the front radius arms in board of the chassis rails to give more articulation and steering lock at the front of a coil sprung landy, Sorry if the answer is simply there is not enough room not had chance to have a look at the room yet (landy is 150 miles away) but thought i would ask. If so how did it affect the roll of the truck?

have a look at these i di them for 120 quid. they work really well im very happy http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=what+pressure?

I had the same problem with my 90 i ended up hammering on a smaller socket and using an arc welder to run weld through the hole into the inside of the socket (make sure you weld it in the right place to get a breaker bar onto it) this joined the bolt and socket and i had no worries about gettin weld on the caliper by accident. The heat helped as well and a quick jump on the breaker bar and a sutible length of tube and they were off. 4 sockets are alot cheaper than 300 quid even if you get someone else to weld them on.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=547642 have you seen that?

yea its a nice idea not big lathe unfortonatly sure i could do it on my drive with some thought like the o ring idea though its a nice one. think i have an old rim kicking round. just need to find someone with a plasma cutter Oh and to answer a few questions the measurements are for 15 inch rim and 3/4 inch water hose was used to reduce coning on the lock ring and also stop mud getting trapped within the gap, bolts are done up to 20 lb/ft.

Ill see i i can get this across in words I did have a thought about splitting a rim as i wanted a cheap solution, I was going to borrow a plasma not sure if it would work (never used one) and mount it so that u could spin the wheel on the car and use the plasma to cut the rim in 2 keeping it perfectly square and then get some rings laser cut up that could be welded inside this cut on either side and then be bolted together with a rubber insert. (with me so far) A piece similar to beadlock split rims could then be clamped inside the rim, giving you a cheap split rim. I may even give it a go on an old rim next time im bored and have some time on my hand, Oh and if u guys think it might work

Well ive got my beadlock sorted and im reallt happy with them cost me vey little Here are a few pics. People have asked for sizes so i have put them in a pdf and attached them.(I am planning on getting a few sets made up and sticking them on ebay but if u know a friendly lazer cutter it will prob be cheaper ) The question is though how low do people drop the pressures the photo above is at 10 psi but i would like to try lower but i dont want to push it to far until i have on board air. What do you think? And thanks must be given to br00n1e for helping me check my measurements. Beadlock_measurements.pdf

Im in the process of designing some lazer cut rings to use as beed locks. I know this is not always the best way although i dont have the money for split rims. I am going to be using simex 35x11.50 r15 on these rings, my question is will the inside diameter of these be different to any other tyre with a 15 inch rim size? I ask because i have some 15 inch tyres off rims which i can take measurments off, without having to take the simex off the rims. I know in theary they should have but i remeber the rubber on the simex sloping in towards the centre of the wheel. Even better anyone got a 15 inch simex they can quickly measure the internal diameter of? If this is a stupid question and they are all 15 inch internal diameter i accept any stick u wish to give. Thanks in advance