Jens

Ordered an ECU with a performance chip fitted late last week and got it today! Popped it in and started up right away without any remapping etc. So If you need a new ECU, I highly recommend you check with http://mastaz.co.uk Great service!

Turns out the damn ECU is fried What are the chances of finding a new one?

Thanks gerry, but I have already cleaned and sanded all the earth point without any luck. Looks like I will have to get it towed to the repair shop and get it looked at.

I'm have a bit of trouble with my trusty old Defender TD5 from 2000 The trouble started last week when it suddenly wouldn't start. All I got was no cranking over and rapid ticking from the starter. It have acted like that once before - which turned out to be a bad earth connection on the starter, so that was the first thing I checked. I also checked and cleaned all the other connection while under there. It turned out to be a dead battery instead. Easy fix. Then after I couple of days it wouldn't start again. But this time it cranks over like it should, but now I have no yellow glow plug or engine light when turning the key. The purring from the pump in the back is obviously also gone too. Here is what I have done so far which turned out fine (or at least I think so): Checked and cleaned the earth points underneath and under the seat (ECU) Checked all the relays for corrosion Checked all the fuses for corrosion Checked the ECU for oil (There was a tiny hint of oil, but I doubt thats the sinner) Checked the fuelpump by bypassing the relay It can't be the immobiliser as it doesn't have one. Battery, it's brand new. The temperature gauge moves a bit when I turn the key, but the goes straight back down to blue (C) again. If I remove the 30A Main Relay fuses under the seat and turn the key the temperature gauge goes into red (H) when the key is turned. I must have read everything there is on this topic, but still stuck so I would appreciate any pointers. I have attached a few images of the relays and ECU if thats any help. Thanks Jens

Small update. The starting is solved, turned out to be dirty plug full of oil that have been leaking from the engine over time. The light is back on and haven't caused any problems since I got the above cleaned. Weird solution, but guess I shouldn't complain ------------------ But.. Last week it started the act strange again. This time it seems to go into "limp mode" when I start it up. It won't rev above 1500 or 2000 would be my guess. And it's almost impossible to drive, no power and misfiring. When I try to rev it up it, the ECU gives off a click sound as if it keeps it for getting above 1500 I though I located the problem, because the wires on the sensor assy on the fuel filter was ripped off somehow. I replaced it with a new one, but it didn't seem to make a difference at all. It's still difficult for it to start, little pulling power, and sometimes stalls. etc etc. There is a tiny bit of oil in the red plug that goes into the ECU, could that be the issue? I know it's a well known problem with the loom leaking, so I should properly get it changed too. It just seems too little to make it a problem, but I could be wrong. I have checked and cleaned the EGR, it seems to work fine, disconnected the MAS without luck, checked air filter etc. Is there some faults codes on the ECU that needs to be cleared after I fixed the fuel sensor? I'm pretty lost, so any advice is much appriciated.

Recently got myself a Defender 110 TD5 from 2000 and it have some strange problems with the heater and headlight. The heater have been working on/off (mostly off) but I just figured it was one of the usual Land Rover perks. I have a Webasto heater too so I barely use the useless one Land Rover put in. But this morning the headlights stopped working. When I flick the light switch I get the blue high beam light in the dash but no light, and the heater was working again. I have checked the fuses and relays and they all seems fine and no erosion. I have also check the connections and bulbs in the headlight. Any ideas? I have checked allot of threads in here and they all seems to be with different solutions to the same problem Thanks Jens

I've just heard petrol engines don't last that long compared to diesel and that the 100.000 miles mark is downhill for them. I mean, my last TD5 Defender had a 120.000 miles on the clock when I got it, and it drove like a dream. Guess a motorway driven V8 can last many years ahead if it's cared for.

I have a Range Rover 2002 I want to buy, it's in a really good looking shape- It's been serviced at dealer on time and passed MOT a few weeks back. My only concern is the engine really, it's 4.4l V8 driven just over 200.000 km (125.000 miles). Is that something I should worry about? And is there other reasons not to get it? Thanks - Jens

Couldn't have said it better myself callum It has everything I want on/in it and drives like a dream so why part with it. Here is a some bigger images of it

Doesn't sound like much trouble then. The only worry I have now, will be driving on the left side with the steering wheel on the left as well. Cheers

Have a few quest about the rules on importing my Defender to the UK. I'm moving to the UK in the near future and would like to take my Defender with me. It's a 99' model TD5 with 37" tires and road legal in Iceland, would it be any problem getting it registered in the UK? If the above would be possible, how is the cost of it calculated? - Jens

Overland Journal have some good resources and links to people driving around the world

yeah, sounds like a knackered UJ come to think of it, even got a spare laying around. cheers!

I have a Defender from 2000 which is beginning to act weird and I was hoping you can maybe can help out a bit The last week or so the steering have began to shake randomly, sometimes it's allot, sometimes a little, when taking off, driving steady and when stopping I figured it could be tires out of balance or steering / suspension bushes that was worn down. But I have checked it all and it's all as it should be. Also have all oil changed every 5000km, and recently done that Then last night while driving I noticed it only shakes when in gear, so it shakes when I accelerate and decelerate when in gear, but stops shaking as soon as I gear out and let it run with the clutch down. The shaking is getting worse by the day, hope someone can help.