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110_USA

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    Georgia, USA
  1. I was installing a block heater and removed the block drain plug. I was hoping to find a replacement with a hose barb, long story short I couldn't. But I've misplaced the plug, I had the threads checked before it was misplaced and was told they were M14x2.0. I can't seem to find that thread pattern anywhere, could someone point me in the right direction? Thank you.
  2. Looking for the torque specs for the manifold studs and nuts, assuming I can get a torque wrench on then . Thanks in advance.
  3. ... I thought that was normal, that it was the nature of a diesel engine that it didn't run efficiently until it was warm. Am is mistaken? In my experience in 20 to 30 degree weather I get a couple of puffs of smoke for 30 seconds then its fine, in 10 degrees or less it smokes for a minute or five.(2.5L NA) I've heard white smoke = water that is or has gotten into the cylinder, black smoke is unburned fuel, and blue is oil. Don't have any conclusive experience with this though.
  4. Mathematically speaking the 255's will be 0.3 inches taller (33.1 total) and the 285's are 30mm wider. Neither will be a problem with a 2" lift. You may have to adjust the steering stop for the wide tires to keep them from rubbing, slightly reducing your turn radius. I like skinny tires, but that's just me, if you expect deep sloppy mud go for the fatties.
  5. Thought I would just add a question to this topic rather than start another one. Recently it got around -5 to -10 and on a very steep slope my hand brake only was effective at providing a slow roll down the grade. Now I always leave it in 1st gear, but I'm curious about what happened. Now that it is warm again it works fine. Did the cold perhaps expand tolerances and reduce friction? And is it a sign of worn pads or drum, or business as usual? (1983 D110 in question) I'm new to cold weather since I moved recently, so I don't have any experience with many wintry effects.
  6. Thank you reb and Western by proxy. I think that should sort it out. I thought it was a "washer" as the name implies but apparntly not. I was able to find one somewhat locally.
  7. A leak I thought was fixed came back again. I think the problem is the Thrust Washer pn. FRC2906 is missing, which is preventing the Lower Swivel Pin Bearing from being snug and allowing the whole Swivel Pin Housing to wobble. As I am in the US parts are a little hard to come by and I was wondering if there was a suitable replacement, such as a washer of the correct thickness and diameter. Would something like that work or is the true part required. If not, could someone perhaps measure the diameter and thickness of a Thrust Washer that might be lying around? Thanks in advance.
  8. Anyone know the torque setting for the oil sump bolts? 2.5L N/A Diesel
  9. Sorry, I should have mentioned, the cap is new and fits snug (although it is a Britpart) I had to replace it because the original was bent and leaked constantly. I guess I could just take a door stopper and stick it on top of the cap to fix it, but what might be the cause if it is fitted correctly? It is a 2.5 N/A, and thanks Lars but I've got a extra too as that was my first try at fixing the original.
  10. The oil filler cap on the rocker cover has popped out twice, not completely; but as much as the bonnet will allow, and produces a spray of oil. I think it happens when I'm down shifting but that doesn't seem to make much sense. First time happened about two months ago and the second time was this morning. Am I perhaps looking at too much blow by and a piston ring job? Cheers
  11. I've used this stuff (not on calipers) seems to work well and hold up to heat nicely, 6 USD for a can if I remember right. RustOleum
  12. Thanks Jim, I'll remember that if I need to check it another time. cheers
  13. WOOOH!!! Western you are amazing. That was it. I had to think for a second on how to cut the engine off but you saved me a lot of time and aggravation. My buddy wanted me to tell you to hop over the pond so he could kiss your arse.
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