110_USA

I was installing a block heater and removed the block drain plug. I was hoping to find a replacement with a hose barb, long story short I couldn't. But I've misplaced the plug, I had the threads checked before it was misplaced and was told they were M14x2.0. I can't seem to find that thread pattern anywhere, could someone point me in the right direction? Thank you.

Thanks a lot.

Looking for the torque specs for the manifold studs and nuts, assuming I can get a torque wrench on then . Thanks in advance.

... I thought that was normal, that it was the nature of a diesel engine that it didn't run efficiently until it was warm. Am is mistaken? In my experience in 20 to 30 degree weather I get a couple of puffs of smoke for 30 seconds then its fine, in 10 degrees or less it smokes for a minute or five.(2.5L NA) I've heard white smoke = water that is or has gotten into the cylinder, black smoke is unburned fuel, and blue is oil. Don't have any conclusive experience with this though.

Mathematically speaking the 255's will be 0.3 inches taller (33.1 total) and the 285's are 30mm wider. Neither will be a problem with a 2" lift. You may have to adjust the steering stop for the wide tires to keep them from rubbing, slightly reducing your turn radius. I like skinny tires, but that's just me, if you expect deep sloppy mud go for the fatties.

Thought I would just add a question to this topic rather than start another one. Recently it got around -5 to -10 and on a very steep slope my hand brake only was effective at providing a slow roll down the grade. Now I always leave it in 1st gear, but I'm curious about what happened. Now that it is warm again it works fine. Did the cold perhaps expand tolerances and reduce friction? And is it a sign of worn pads or drum, or business as usual? (1983 D110 in question) I'm new to cold weather since I moved recently, so I don't have any experience with many wintry effects.

Thank you reb and Western by proxy. I think that should sort it out. I thought it was a "washer" as the name implies but apparntly not. I was able to find one somewhat locally.

A leak I thought was fixed came back again. I think the problem is the Thrust Washer pn. FRC2906 is missing, which is preventing the Lower Swivel Pin Bearing from being snug and allowing the whole Swivel Pin Housing to wobble. As I am in the US parts are a little hard to come by and I was wondering if there was a suitable replacement, such as a washer of the correct thickness and diameter. Would something like that work or is the true part required. If not, could someone perhaps measure the diameter and thickness of a Thrust Washer that might be lying around? Thanks in advance.

Thank you once again Western

Anyone know the torque setting for the oil sump bolts? 2.5L N/A Diesel

Sorry, I should have mentioned, the cap is new and fits snug (although it is a Britpart) I had to replace it because the original was bent and leaked constantly. I guess I could just take a door stopper and stick it on top of the cap to fix it, but what might be the cause if it is fitted correctly? It is a 2.5 N/A, and thanks Lars but I've got a extra too as that was my first try at fixing the original.

The oil filler cap on the rocker cover has popped out twice, not completely; but as much as the bonnet will allow, and produces a spray of oil. I think it happens when I'm down shifting but that doesn't seem to make much sense. First time happened about two months ago and the second time was this morning. Am I perhaps looking at too much blow by and a piston ring job? Cheers

I've used this stuff (not on calipers) seems to work well and hold up to heat nicely, 6 USD for a can if I remember right. RustOleum

Thanks Jim, I'll remember that if I need to check it another time. cheers

WOOOH!!! Western you are amazing. That was it. I had to think for a second on how to cut the engine off but you saved me a lot of time and aggravation. My buddy wanted me to tell you to hop over the pond so he could kiss your arse.

Thanks Western, I'll give it a shot before it gets dark. I may do that before I remove the timing cover but I doubt the injectors are the problem; because they would have had to all go out at the same time? Otherwise I should be getting at least a little exhaust or a rough start?

The engine shut off after driving about 50km and continued to turn over. When cranking, air comes from the exhaust but has no smell of diesel. I cleaned the sediment filter, changed the fuel filter and primed the system. I got a tow for about 200 meters and the engine turned fine but wouldn't fire. The pump squirted fuel with the filter removed. I'm now guessing that either the timing belt has perhaps broken or there is something wrong with the injector pump. I hope it isn't the latter of the two because the cheapest I could find was 250 quid. Is there a way to find out which it is without removing the timing cover, or what else might be wrong? I guess it could also be the fuel cut off solenoid, it is getting power but it could have gone bad. Cheers

We have a name for those in the US, "n***** wheels."

I'm also very interested in this. I have the same questions. Mine is also a Ex-mil. The start up looks normal, although I usually just have one brief puff of black, occasionally I have what you do. Have only observed the blow by with the filter removed but I'll disconnect the hose and see if I can't get a video; guessing, I would say you have about 50% more than I.

If it's been driven dry (or nearly dry) there is going to be damage. Maybe bad, maybe not. To do it properly you need to disassemble them.

Thanks everyone.

Thanks Western, but I understood that bit. I'm wondering what is the story behind "superseded part numbers" and how to find out which ones they are. I'd like to know because a search for the original part # didn't turn anything up, but the "new" part number did.

I called a US distributor about part number ETC5297. I was told that that number was superseded by ERR1454. When I searched some English suppliers where I had failed before, there it was. Anyone care to enlighten me about "new" part numbers or how one figures out what they are? Cheers

Please elaborate, not sure what you're talking about, I'm just imagining a horse blanket wrapped around the engine It's ex military so it has... well nothing. I have a dashboard and sun visors but that's it.

I'd like to quiet down the cabin noise of the ol' 2.5L Diesel. I'm considering Wright Offroad's system...Here And perhaps some Dynamat on the horizontal surfaces. I'm wondering of there is enough play in the premolded mat to accommodate some additional insulation underneath it. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with good sound dampening? I'm guessing most of the sound comes from the seat box and foot wells, can't really tell though, just sounds like it's coming from everywhere. I would like to go all the way up the fire wall, but that is a bit more involved than I'd like to get into at the moment, perhaps another time.