mahon257

I bought a second hand rear diff earlier this year - eBay - £60. Works perfectly. I also bought a recon diff (front) from Rimmer bros last year - £450 !!!. It's definately "tighter" that an £60 one but, If I was doing it again... the £60 wins in terms of value for money. there's a few on there today,see here. eBay seller "landysom" supplied mine.. Takes about 1 hour to fit... I didn't bother with a new gasket - just give the area a good clean with a rag, then use genral purpose silicon sealant. Best of luck.

I have fitted the standard height ones too... I also had to cut back part of the inner wing to make ' em fit. They do not interfere with turbo pipes on my car - once the inner wing is trimmed back a bit. Hope that helps!

What about fitting an "Air Lift" kit? ( I have one - great for variable load / weight in boot). Reasonably priced too - about £100 from memory. http://www.air-lift.co.uk/

Ralphs Disco: http://www.overland-rovers.com/ralphs-pages.html

Following a recent visit to see ralphr's most excellent Disco, I've been inspired to make a drinking water tank (based on Ralphs idea's). Step 1: Knock up a steel frame (from 20x20mm box section) Step 2: Thrown in some plywood Step 3: Bung in a "plastimo 100 ltire water bladder" The stroke of genuis (thanks Ralph) is the Plastimo bag. It's obviously desgined for boats, but being a bag, it: a) Will fit the available space you create in your frame, b) Can be easily replaced if damaged c) Can be removed for maintenance / cleaning The steel / plywood frame was created to contain the bag (stop it getting torn by the seats). The frame is in 2 parts - which bolt together - to make installation easier / possible! I've changed the filling pipes since these pics were taken - I now use a "closed system" system approach. Using Hozelock Garden hose connectors, I either fill the main tank from a whale pump in a jerry can, standing on the ground outside the car, or from a normal garden hosepie (if available). Oh, and the 100 ltr bag, actually holds 65 litres (because of the constraints / size of the frame). total cost: £65 for the Plastimo bag, £30 in steel, £20 in wood. Welcome comments etc., Cheers Nick

http://www.peterboroughtoday.co.uk/news/local/dealer_regrets_signature_fraud_1_2313154

feebay... Domestic Steam Cleaner.. New: £60

Hi Sam... the lights are (from fleebay): "White LED Flexible Car Strip Neon Light UK 12V". The ones I bought are 30cm long - there don't appear to be any on eBay at the mo... (just checked). I bought them 'cause theyre bendy, and can fit them anywhere! I've also used "LABCRAFT ASTRO 12V LED STRIP LIGHT" in the Alpine Windows - to light the campsite:

I've used plywood, instead of chequer plate. In hindsight, I think chequer plate may be the better choice.. Anyhoo... I've fitted a fold-down table, tap, fold-down cooker. Lighting is supplied from within the car...

Looks like you're having fun... Brings back a few memories for me this....from last summer! If you need any help - be happy to answer any questions... but it looks like you've got it all under control! Nice work...

There is "some" adjustment possible - at both the hinge side - and the latch (locking side). The 2 x door hinges are bolted to free-floating steel plates. The idea... loosen all 6 bolts - enough to free up the hinges - but keep them attached to the car. You then need someone to hold up the boot door - whilst you re-tighten the hinges bolts. It will take alot of experimentation - but you should be able to improve things... If that doesn't work... you can also adjust the latch bolt (it is also mounted on a floating plate). Cheers Nick

That's ridiculous.. Especially when you can bypass it for free. Or, if you don't fancy soldering, just plug the Bypass adaptor in, available from L/R part number AMR4956 .Don't forget to tell the insurance monkeys.

The POR-15 paint is funny stuff.. and most definately the best paint I have ever used (I have used it several times on the Disco -so far it's stood up to everything). Couple of things to be aware of... You can only use POR Solvent to thin it, or clean off surfaces. Normal paint thinners, White spirit etc - do NOT work! There is a specific process to follow for applying it (de-grease, Chemically Etch, apply POR-15, apply UV top coat) POR-15 is UV sensitive. You have to apply a non-UV sensitive top coat - for any surfaces that will get sunlight... I figured everything get's sunlight in snow! So I always applied a top coat. Not all paints will adhere to POR-15 either... in short, get helps from Frosts.co.uk - they we're great with me. The process is here Youtube Video here (a bit "american" but you'll get the idea)

Morocco 2008... Edge of the Sahara. I'm going back later in 2011... totally addicted to the freedom the desert brings..

Great stuff... this must be close to a record thread in term of participation.. a great example of "all for one and one for all"

I'm in NR6... 41 yrs old... £348. Fully Comp, Incl Euro Breakdown. "Sureterm Direct". and... I'm told them about all my mods (i.e. 30% increased engine power, roof tent etc). If your car is >15 yrs old - and you spent time doing it up (i.e. it's worth more to you than the Glass's guide price) - ask for "agreed value" insurance too. Cheers Nick

I've used a combo of the MUD pod + Brodit mounts: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=9933 Works well !

Well... looks like you're more or less out of options... but one thing left to check might be the coolant flow rate I've got a bit of a risky suggestion if you're feeling brave... This is based on disconnecting the radiator hoses, then jerry-rigging a static cold water supply to the TOP radiator hose, and disconnecting the bottom radiator hose. The idea is to try and observe the water being expelled from the bottom hose onto the ground - or into a bucket (for measuring the quantity expelled - with a stop watch?). I've never done this, and obviously make no guarantees etc... Obviously the engine should be cold when you do this... First up, let's take a stab at guessing the quantity of water that we can expect to see pumped out. I've not been able to find any stats for the 300TDi's water flow rate but... have found 3 websites that may help - so here's 3 guesses based on the 300TDI's power output of 84Kw (113hp): Flow rate Guess "1": http://www.eng-tips....=161237&page=11 Conventional cooling needs on smaller engines with mechanically driven water pumps vary between 2.0 to 2.6 L/min/kW. Some advanced engines already run at 1.0 - 1.7 L/min/kW" So... rough guess: 84kw x 2.0ltrs per minute = 168 ltrs per minute. Flow rate Guess "2" http://www.toyota-su...water-pump.html "Assuming the pump was sized for a 320hp (240kW) engine, rejecting a typical 60% of its brake power to coolant, the water flow rate required to keep the temperature rise across the engine to 8degC would be 292litres per minute." This suggests the flow rate for an 84kw engine should be in the region of 102 litres per minute. Flow Rate Guess "3" This next ones from a boating website: " Engines with indirect cooling require more flow: about 65-70 litres ... per minute for each 75kW (100bhp) of engine power." This suggests the flow rate for an 84kw engine should be in the region of 78 litres per minute. ( ( 84kw/75kw = 1.12 ) x 70 litres = 78 litres ) So, if we're talking about running the engine for a few seconds.... in this configuration... a 20 litre jerry can resting on it's side, plumbed into the top radiator hose might work? You'll likely need at least 1 litre of cold water per second of engine running rigged up to the top hose. In theory, the disconnected bottom hose should chuck out at least 1 litre per second too. I would definately get someone to help you - to make sure the engine is turned off as soon as the water supply looks close to empty. I've also thought about fitting a cheap water flow meter - but that's probably a bit too much hassle! (e.g. water flow meter! £24 ) Finally, i have no idea on how safe this is for the engine - so if it's completely nuts - hopefully someone will say so!

Tony - I've actually got a spare bottom hose in my garage (part: ESR3296) - which I've just checked. As mentioned by "mayur" - it indeed does NOT have a spring inside (mine is a Britpart one - ahem ). Anyway.. that aside, you mentioned you had fitted Silicone hoses to the radiator... Presume these are a different design to the standard ones? My point being - it may be worth fitting the standard bottom hose anyway... just a thought.

Still following this thread with interest! Got another 3 things for ya: 1. Serpentine Belt + Belt Tensioner: See : http://www.arrowhead...s_and_cures.htm Specifically " Belts & hoses - Check belt tension and condition. A loose belt that slips may prevent the water pump from circulating coolant fast enough and/or the fan from turning fast for proper cooling. The condition of the hoses should also be checked and replaced if they are over 5 years old." 2. Lower Radiator Hose collapsing (part No. ESR3296 ) (from same site above): "Sometimes a lower radiator hose will collapse under vacuum at high speed and restrict the flow of coolant from the radiator into the engine. This can happen if the reinforcing spring inside the hose is missing or damaged." Or if the hose is made by Britpart? This topic is also mention here : http://grannys.tripo...leshooting.html The lower radiator hose is another often overlooked source of high RPM cooling problems. As the water pump speed increases, the pressure inside the lower hose can become very low, as the water must be drawn thru the radiator core. If water flow becomes high enough, the core can become a restriction. When the restriction becomes large enough, the system pressure between the radiator core and the water pump can get low enough to allow the hose to COLLAPSE !!! If the hose collapses, no flow is happening, and overheating is the only outcome. Most lower (or suction side) radiator hoses come with a spiral wound "spring" like coil inside it's length, which is typically made of stainless wire. If your lower hose does not have one, get one. Even if your hose feels stiff without one, it will become quite soft as the coolant temperature goes up. The "lower radiator" hose idea seems to fit your symptoms - i.e. over heating only happens at speed - but not at idle / slow driving ... cheap to replace too... (I realise you said you have fitted new hoses...) 3. Replace Expansion Tank Pressure Cap. "Higher system pressures raise the vapor point of the coolant and subsequently it's ability to absorb heat. A system pressure of 12-17 PSI results from the expansion of the coolant and trapped air going from ambient temperature to operating temperature. " From: http://www.stewartco...Tech_Tips_6.htm I reckon number "2" would be your best bet.. Best of luck chap Nick

Not sure is this will help..... but it looks like you've tried just about everything with respect to the cooling system. I guess the only other obvious thing to check - is the source of the heat. I've got a pimped intercooler, heavily tweaked bosch pump, standard vicous fan, a turbo running at 19psi. In the Sahara desert in 2008 at a very uncomfortable 57c (yep, fifty seven celcius) ambient, the temp gauge still remained at 50%. So the cooling system is pretty awesome when it works. Before I did any of these engine mods I fitted 2 things: An EGT gauge (i.e. an "Exhaust Gas Temp" gauge). A Turbo Gauge The only time my temp gauge has ever moved above the "middle", is when my turbo wastegate pushrod came off. Apart from an obvious loss of power, no sign of a change in exhaust smoke, the lack of air from the turbo resulted in over fuelling and EGT temps peaking at 550c. Normally, my car runs at 350c (450c when pushing it hard). Think the EGT gauge is about £70. Might be worth a punt - at least you'll know if the combustion side of things is healthy. Found mine on the web by searching for "DIGITAL EGT THERMOMETER PYROMETER W/ PROBE-NPT" Best of luck, Nick Pictures of Turbo +EGT gauge attached. Turbo Gauge Fitting: http://forums.lr4x4....=1

Ralph... I think we may have been separated at birth! Our cars look almost identical, I'm also in Norwich! I think I may have passed you on Fifers Lane once or twice too! Small world! I'd luv to meet up - very interested to see your water solution (the yacht plastic bag in pax footwell). I've done something with a jerry cans - but your solution looks much better! I'll "pm" you via the forum... Cheers Nick

Another little project done - which I thought I'd share. Got fed up with rooting around in the dark for gear when camping. So, fitted some "extra" internal lights. Also found a use for the Alpine Windows in the Disco - to light the campsite (i.e. external lighting). Worked out pretty well. All lights fused at the aux fuse panel (in 1st pic next to Solar Panel Regulator). All powered from off aux battery (also in the boot). Also fitted switches near the actual lights themselves, housed in small plastic "project boxes" from Maplin. For the Alpine Windows, I searched eBay for "LABCRAFT ASTRO 12V LED STRIP LIGHT ". For the Internal "bendy" lights, again on eBay: "30cm 30 White LED Flexible Car Strip Neon Light UK 12V " Pics attached:

The more I think about it... fixing the missing front mud guards seems to be a necessary evil ! Time to search for parts online again. Oh, the joy.