mahon257

I bought this exact model in June-2010. I'm an "occassional" home user (i.e. hobbyist), and I have to say, it does the job. They come with a 16amp plug, but with a bit of basic maths, figured out that 13 amps is roughly 50% on the power dial.. I run mine on a 13amp plug (on a different ring-main to the compressor). (Search fleebay for "CARAVAN FLY LEAD ADAPTOR 13A PLUG TO 16 AMP CONNECTOR" if this linkdoesn't work). I have used this so far for cutting sheet ali, and for removing sills on my Disco.. Max thickness I've used if for, so far, 1.6mm steel. Works a treat... see pic attached. As for long term use - afraid can't yet comment... but so far, so good!

One final note... have tested this system by intentionally running main (starter) battery flat - left the headlights on for a few hours! By pressing the "link" button on the IBS unit, I was able to immediately start the car from the AUX battery - which is something I couldn't do before when was just the 100amp relay. Awesome!

I have a spare 300TDI turbo if you want it mate... I bought it off ebay about a year ago... the bloke spend 4 weeks get off his ar&e before he sent it me - so in the end I bought another.. Paid about £80... I'd get rid of it for half that, if your interested.. You'll still need to buy a gasket though I'm in Norwich.. If your interested - you can ping me a message via the forum... (I think!)

Had the same problem after a trip to the Sahara. Lots of fine sand - everywhere! My solution? 1. Buy a new Door Seal (about £50) 2. Adjusted both latch position and moved the top of the door towards the car, and the bottom edge out - by playing with the hinges. The 2 x hinges are fixed to the car on free-moving plates. There's a fair amount of adjustment - definately a 2 man job though...

The Disco 2 definately has a different boot door to a 300TDi (1996). The Door latch is approx 2 inches higher (so you can't even shut the door!). I have just fitted a door from a V8 petrol (N reg), to my 300TDI P reg. Perfect fit. As for L reg Discos - sorry can't help with that...

Here we go (apologies for the dodgy drawings - wiring ain't my thing) I've attached the original IBS version, and a modified diagram showing 1 "contactor". As I mentioned, I have a 2nd Contactor that joins the winch to the 1st contactor (i.e. to 2 joined batteries) - but I've left that off this diagram - as it kinda over-complicates things!

I had same symptoms with my disco recently... Eventually diagnosed by: 1.Driving car over an inspection pit 2. Got an experienced mechanic to put his hand on the diff - as I took up slack on clutch (to engage drive). If it's the diff - you'll feel a "clonk" as the drive train starts to "grip". My Fix was to get a recon'd diff (from Rimmer bros). I paid £350 (+£150 refundable deposit for exchange part). After new diff fitted (took me about 1 hour), good as new! Best of luck...

I paid £68.49 for 2, inc. postage. See here I should also mention, they ain't weatherproof - so you'll to make something to put then in (i.e. like the ali box I made).

Forgot to include specs of the "contactors" - see attached pics. Should also mention, that there are beefier "contactors" available - but these were fit for my set-up.

So, I thought I'd share my latest mini-project with you chaps... A split-charging system "upgrade". Here's the deal... I have an "IBS" split charge system, which is based around a 100AMP relay - whose job is to join the main battery, to the aux battery, and protect the state of charge of the main, to make sure you can always start the car. This is great! For running a fridge/freezer, or lights etc, from the Aux Battery. But... what if you want to: a) Start the car from the aux battery? b) run a winch from both batteries? Well, with a 100AMP relay - put simply, my experience is that you can't! So, here's what I've done... 1st, we've gotta deal with the 100AMP relay. We need more beans!. I've tried a couple of solenoids (eBay £25). They we not up to it. My winch draws (at peak load) 600AMPs! So, what can make an electrical contact, that can handle a load of 600AMPs? The answer my friends is a "contactor" - as used by your local milkman in his milkfloat!. Search google for "SW80B-5, Albright single acting solenoid contactor 12V continuous". Before I continue, I should point out that I'm most definately not an electrician - and not qualified in anyway, other that with enthusiam. So excuses over with, here's what I did: Step1: -------- Make a box with removable lid, to house the new electrics. see "box_b.JPG", and "box_complete.jpg". I made mine from 1.2mm Sheet aluminium + rivets, and the lid is secured via a couple of rivnuts + m8 bolts Step 2: --------- Buy, 2 x "contactors" (one for the 2 x batteries, 1 for the winch), 2 x 30 Amp relays with blade connectors, some 8 amp wire, crimp connectors, 2 x inline fuse holders, 2 x 8amp blade fuses Step 3: --------- Bung that lot in your new box - see "Soleniod_box_version2_a.JPG" and "Soleniod_box_version2_c.jpg". Step 4: --------- You now have 600+ AMPS available from your split charge system! Of course, there was a bit more to this than I have explained - so if anyone is interested in what I've done - be happy to provide further details... My final solution is that the IBS system works exactly as before, except this time it is indirectly (via a 30 amp relay) controlling a 600+AMP connection between the 2 x batteries. In addition, I have installed a new on/off switch on the dashboard, that controls the 2nd "Contactor". The job of the 2nd is to join the 2 x batteries to the winch - thereby enabling me to disable the winch from inside the car...

Success! Managed to get the new sills in.. Trick was to weld the inner + outer sill together 1st - i.e. on a workbench. I then bent the edge of floor upwards (on the edge under the foot pedals - that runs across the width of the car, between the inner wing and the clutch pedal). Was then able to get the new sill in. Didn't need to jack up body or remove any mount bolts (other that the 2 chassis mounts that hold the sill in).

thanks for the replies chaps.. Think I'm gonna try loosing the body/chassis mounts "fore+aft" - too see if I can lift the body by an inch or so... wish me luck!

Yes - I did this a couple of years ago.. From memory the process was: 1. Test fit all piece - check size and dimensions 2. Clean everything! Especially windows rubbers.. 3. Get a plastic spray bottle fill it with fairy liquid + water - not too strong - just enought to colour the water green. 4. Get a helper! (2nd person) 5. Get a "SILICONE BLADE CAR DRYING BLADE" (search eBay for that description) 1st thing is to check the size of the tinted sheets - which usually come as a kit. Mine were wrong! The boot door was about 4 inches too long - so had to cut is down. Once you got the sizes right, clean, and clean again. Any crud left, especially around the rubbers, will cause the tint to "lift" off the glass. When fitting the plastic tint sheets, spray the both sides with the fairy/water solution, and spray the glass too (if in doubt - spray it!). You need to spray the back side - as you'll use the silcone blade to push air bubbles out. Any plastic sheet not covered generously with fairy/water will scratch or worse tear. In short, be very generous with the lube! Hope that helps, Cheers Nick PS I think it's illegal to tint the front windows for road use.... so I just did the boot door, and 4 side windows - I left the drivers+pax window as original.

I'm replacing my doors sills on the Disco (1996). Run into a bit of an issue! Bought the new panels from Paddocks, (inner and outer sill). As you can see from the photo attached ... I've managed to cut out the old panels - but whilst doing a "test fit" of the 2 new panels (inner+outer sill) - I can't get them both in - only 1 or the other. The way I see it, I'm gonna either have to lift the body up off the chassis (somehow), or apply loads of brute force and bend the new panels - which may not be possible without completely kn*ckering them. Anyone got any useful tips! (hopefully Les is reading as I can see he's done this before!) Cheers Nick These are the new bits: Inner Sill, Outer Sill

top stuff guys - thanks for the replies...

Re: maxtherotti question, Hi Rob, well... the wheel arches came from 4muddyfeet.com (via FleeBay). I paid £125. I used about 10 g-clamps, and lot's of glue, to stick 'em on. Because of the weight on the roof, I've also got 30mm wheel spacers on.. Cheers Nick

It's that time of year again. Insurance renewal. At the Peterborough show back in the summer, I had a chat with the guys from SureTerm direct. Seemed like they were keen to insure LR owners who spend all their free time and cash on their cars - just like me! So, I phoned 'em up today - they quoted me a fair price, so I'm giving them a go... But... My car is a 1996 Disco, 300TDi. I bought it for around £3,000. A fair price. 2 years later, the car has been transformed into more of an expedition vehicle. It's had alot on money lavished on it - and I'm sure I'm not alone in this! (ahem). I absolutely do not want to sell it - I just want it properly insured - to reflect a fair "market" price to cover all the extras. So, here's the question... Apart from sending them photos of the car (which they have asked for), how do I value it now? I know what I've spent, I know how much time has gone into it (it's a bit scary to think about) - but the insurance chaps have explicity asked for independant verification. I've spoken to a few local "vehicle assessors" (insurance types). They reckon it would cost around £500 to value. I could just stick it on flee bay with a 1 million pound reserve and see what happens! I've phoned my local Specialists (JSF in Norwich) who are not interested (fair enough). I was thinking of trying Nene Overland, or GumTree... Anyone else been through this? Or do most of us just insure our cars at whatever the insurance companies think is the going rate for a standard LR and accept the risk? Help! Cheers Nick

I carry alot of weight in my Disco (300Tdi 1996). My car now weighs 2.9 tonnes ( a few extras have been added). I've experimented with a few types of suspension setups of the last couple of years. My use is mainly on-road, with the odd African expedition thrown in (lot's off road / piste driving). I've found the following to be perfecto: 1. Police Spec Range Rover Heavy Duty Rear springs (from memory, about £60 for a pair) 2. Air Helper Kit - £105 3. Koni Adjustable Shocks - £350 The front of my car is not really worth mentioning - as I have Bearmach springs designed to handle a winch+bumper - so it wouldn't suit your situation... As for the rear... The RR springs gave me about a 1" lift. The Air "helper" kit, in addition to providing addition lift if desired, also provides great adapatibility for different loads/conidtions. The koni shocks are a bit of over-kill - but after I fitted a winch/bumper I found I had a scary amount of body roll in the bends. The Koni's have virtually elimiated body roll (on the highest setting - which I only use on-road). They work by resisting Stretching as well as compression - so the side not under load on cornering also helps reduce body roll. Not sure how good they would be off-road... I've attached a few "before/after" photos showing the effect the Air Lift kit and springs had for me... Hope that helps.

Sorted... The answer was to replace the solid front discs with vented, then replace stand disco front calipers with Defender 110 (part. STC1266) calipers. The def. calipers have a single hose fitting and are wide enough to take the wider discs. Thanks to JSF! Cheers Nick

Sounds like just the job... any idea where to get the spacer?

My 1996 300TDi Disco (with ABS) has had many modifications - most of which have added weight to the car. She now weights just under 3 tonnes! I have serviced the brakes (new pads/fluid + a new master cylinder). The brakes still ain't filling me with confidence - so I decided to "upgrade". I've bought new Vented+grooved discs and wide calipers from Paddocks. Here's the problem. Currently the car has solid front discs, with a single brake hose leading to the calipers. The new calipers (dual pot) need 2 x brake hoses each. Oops. Anyone know how to handle this? (apart from sending them back!) I presume the current brake cylinder will need to be upgraded too - as more fluid than normal will be needed to move the pads? (I have no idea). I guess I may need a plumber! Anyway, as usual - any advice much appreciated!

Whilst setting off back from NW Scotland to Norfolk last week in my 1996 Disco 300TDi, driving throught the highlands, I noticed my Turbo pressure "peak" had dropped from a previous high of 20psi to 10psi. The pressure drop was, accompanied by, well, what sounded like a bag of loose change rolling around in the engine, between 1,000rpm to 2,000 rpm - with revs higher than 2,000 the noise went away. So, somewhat optimisically, 600 miles from home, I decided to carry on (stupid, I know). I managed to do another 500 miles of the 600 mile journey - before, a sudden burst of white smoke, followed by a total loss of engine power, where upon I ground to a halt by the side of the A1.... The AA man turned out to be a 200tdi owner (good bloke too), when I explained that the engine would tick over, but wouldn't run - and I told him the turbo pressure story. He pulled off the airhose, from the air box - to the turbo, and stuck his finger in the back of the turbo. "that's the problem" he said! The turbo shaft is now loose - and you can move it about 1cm in all directions (in other words, it's completely "shafted"). I have a second hand turbo on order from eBay.... My question is this... If I remove the turbo and find "bits" missing, i.e. fins, bearings etc, where could the bits have gone? Stuck in the CAT in the exhaust? or intercooler? or worse? What would the logical sequence be for turbo bits if they separated from the turbo? (I don't fully understand the airflow path after the turbo). In other words, how much of the engine do I have to dismantle? could I get away with just bolting the replacement turbo on? As you can tell, I am a complete amateur at this sort of thing! But would like to give it a go - if only for the sake of learning more about the engine.. Any help, as always, greatly appreciated.

Top man! I'll get me scrubbing brush out and have another look...

Can anyone help me find an Axle PArt number? Disco 1996 ES 300TDi (with ABS). I'm trying to buy a new front diff assembly, but the axle part number seems to be crucial to getting the right Diff (24/10 spline etc etc). Been under the car with a torch and a mirror and can't locate the supposed Axle number... Anyone know where it is? Appreciate any guidance. Cheers.