Mack

Gentlemen I did search but nothing came out...... Do you know of any source explaining front axle codes, eg. 10M, 13M, 17M, 61L, 63L etc.....?

Do you remember those triangular small windows in front doors? Anyboody has done it seen it done on a Defender? thanks M

The MT82 is totally serviceable with "some special tools" starting from the output shaft forward.

Above is wrong: Pinion bearings are: JXC25743C/ JXC25743D inner bearing NP850232/JXC10238DF outer bearing

Most Puma give around 28-29 mpg. Td5 Alive and BAS are the chaps in top of the line for remaps.

hand brake handke gets hot because the exhaust pipe is located at 5 mm from the cable. I do not think it is the Tbox that rattles.

Somewhere I read that 33ºC is the optimal temp for diesel before injection.

I just want the opposite for my Puma: to fit bench type seat into my 110". Any pic to share showing the mounts?

The distance between the axle and axle stop is 84+/-15 mm.

I hope is not too silly to ask how do I get the right position for fitting the castor correction bushes? They do have some marks but not the radius arms. NB. I guess it is rather eccentric

ACEA specs do not relate to viscosity and "exceeding" does not meen is better for your engine. Same for transmission oils: GL-5 is not better than GL-4. There are exceptions though. http://www.motul-lubricantes.com/eftm/definicion_normas_ACEA_motor_liviano.pdf http://www.lubrizol.com/EuropeanEngineOils/RelativePerformanceToolIntro.html

Bailey MOrris ltd. They are very helpful

Use your finger tips and flashlight. Or wifies makeup mirror

Front diff pinion flange is not contained in the same vertical plane with the Tbox front output flange ( A bit too the right) . In the 110" Puma the rear shaft are also not in "phase". So still not sure is those are 30 or 45º

Hi try to search, but.... How many degress is the misalignment between the propshaft ends? thanks

How did skip that one! Anyway Rover P38 type bearings seem to be: Cone/Cup (Inner) HM801346X-HM801310 Cone/Cup (Outer) M88046-M88010

I´ve seen those. I´m after Timken, SKF, Koyo, etc. Got STC1156 as JXC25743C/D thanks M

back again. I got lucky and found all bearings for the Tbox. The NP027538 seem to be equivalent to (fersa or skf 33205) Now, I´m after STC1156 and STC2808 (inner and outer P38 type rear diff). have not found them in the web (yet). Any hints? thanks, M

Top guys. Thanks

Hi guys I´m looking for aftermarket bearings: STC3185 FRC5564 STC1130 (I read somewhere here it is SKF 6207, but there are meny 6270 ones) thanks in advance. M

Just to add a bit, nowadays LR OE shoxs are also gas filled. I also find OMEs a bit pricey for what you get. At the end I decided to get regulable Rancho 9000 adjustable for the same $. I think the best are Koni and Bilstein (expensive though). MK

cheers

Hi Been through the tech acrh but Im still wondering if it is possible to take the front output shaft easily? I need to inspect some possible wearing. Or do I need to strip the whole box down? cheers M

Hi everyone: The long story of my Puma´s Tbox. At 8000 km started to have a clonk from the Tbox. At around 15000 km fitted OME 2" lift including a double cardon front propsahft. At 25000 km swaped to a remanufactured Tbox (warranty) and new clutch version as the original one did not fit well against the cover and flywheel. Clonk did not actually go away and got worse with use. At 35000 km dealer said uj´s from the front propshaft were done. False, it runs perfectly. Then that the mass of the front propshaft was causing excessive wear in the fron output shaft from the Tbox. About 45º slack. They accepted to swap it again for a "new overhauled unit". Also, changed the gearbox, clutch assy and flywheel. Everything ok for about 400 km after all these new bits were fitted. Now, again got a lot of slack at the front output shaft My thoughts are: i)low quality of remanufactured Tbox or ii) in fact the double cardon propshaft is guilty (weights 10 kgs). My warranty is over in about 5 months. thanks in advance for any input. M