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Dr W

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  1. Thanks, have got rave but left laptop at parents so just wanted to take off relay and clean the connections, I am then going to check the voltage on the glow plugs before I consider replacing them. It was starting fine when cold and taking a bit longer when hot (worse when been sat for an hour or two so cooled down but not enough to trigger glow plugs) I've bought a hot fix kit to try and resolve the hot start problem but this cold start issue has confused me as only recently started being a problem (strangely after I serviced it and did a long run) but can't see how that would have any effect on the starting. Takes several attempts to start it and then loads of white smoke out the back and engine runs sluggish for 5 seconds or so. I replaced leak off pipes so now trying to establish what else it could be. Cheers
  2. Sounds like you got a bargain
  3. Can you give a bit more description as to the location of the heater relay? Where abouts is the ECU box, is this the one under the drivers seat? I need to check mine this weekend as it's taking several attempts to start (have changed leak off pipes) and I want to check the connections. Thanks
  4. It's a 91 J reg Classic 3.9. I was removing a unconnected power amp at the time (only leads connected were an earth and a lead to the '+' on the gas solenoid, it wasn't doing anything as a garage had disconnected as it was making the coil run twice as hot as it should (anyway another story) Snipped the wire to the '+' and then unbolted the earth connector (which was earthing two wires) and removed one of the wires and replaced. I'll check that the earth is making a good connection and then check each of the wires round coil and alternator, I hate electrical problems as you just can't see any obvious that's causing the problem.
  5. Thanks, no it was all working fine until i decided to replace ht leads and then noticed it was no longer working. I'll check all the connections and see what happens.
  6. Hi all I've got a Classic on which the Rev Counter was working fine before I replaced the HT leads. Is there any reason why swapping the leads over would stop the rev counter working, I guess I've knocked a connection but trying to figure out where to start looking. Does the rev counter take it's signal from the coil or the altenator? As I said it was working perfectly but now it's not, especially annoying as I'm in the middle of trying to sell it. Cheers
  7. OK thanks maybe I'll look into it. Do you buy it as a kit? How much is it? Is it easy to fit and finally where can you buy it? Cheers
  8. But from what I read on the Megajolt thread there isn't any point if I'm running on gas 99% of the time.
  9. Hats off to you Fridgefreezer, garage I took car to for it's service (Quadratech) and have a look at the problem told me that the Power Amp was the problem. Now most of stuff about dwell etc goes over my head but what they said was that there was 40 degrees dwell (?) and that the coil wasn't having time to cool down and so the coil was running at 120 degrees C. They disconnected the Power Amp and car started running ok again with amp running about 50 degrees C. I had a coil go on me about 4 months ago and the garage said that it was probably the Power Amp that caused the old original coil to burn out. RPi tell me that the power amp only amplifies the spark (to make the LPG burn more efficiently) and that removing the amp doesn't solve the problem it just releases the pressure a bit so everything appears to be working properly. They said it was that most old classics are running on worn inefficient distributors and replacing this would might remove the problem and enable the Power Amp to work properly? To be fair they did offer to look at the amp and test it if I sent it back or have a look over the car but Norfolk is a bit of a trek. I have to say that replacing HT leads, rotor arm, fitting the power amp and a new vapouriser (old one had a hole in it) did help to increase the MPG from 10 to 20 on a motorway run. Can't say any one part helped more than the others but I may just run it around for a while and do some motorway miles to see if the mpg drops after removing the amp. What's the Megajolt thing you mentioned in an earlier post? How does it work?
  10. They seem to know their stuff though. I'll have a look at that tech guide you suggested, Cheers
  11. No I'm not a doctor so pennies do matter (that's why I drive an old Classic as my everyday car and not a brand new Vogue. Rpi tell me that they have no problems with the Power Amp other than total failure in a few cases and that reliability is high. Not sure how I would know if the box failed anyway?
  12. If you think it's the ignition amp what do you think I do about it? Can it be adjusted or does it need replacing? Going to try replacing the plugs and rotor arm this weekend and see if that improves it. The problem is the misfire is not constant and happens irractically so difficult to trace. Thanks
  13. Hi guys Hope you can give me some advice on my Classic 1992, 3.9 V8, lpg/petrol. It's got lpg so within the last year I've fitted A&R Power amp, ignition amplifier Magnecore HT leads New rotor arm New coil (last one died) My Classic has recently developed an interesting problem. I have to go out on a saturday morning and drive 22 miles which car does no problem, however when I drive back home towards the end of the journey say last mile when I hit a bit of traffic it starts to misfire to the point that if I put my foot down it spits and bangs, if I gently press the accelerator I can creep along but no hard pressing. I thought it might be the HT leads so switched engine off wiggled leads and restarted and it seemed ok but then a few mins later same problem will happen. If I swtich off and back on then it's ok for a while. I then leave the car for a week and chance it again, the journey down is fine but back it happens again. I did a 30 mile journey during the week and it was fine for the whole journey. I've tried switching between lpg and petrol but no help. What I can't figure out is why it's happening when the engine is hot. I thought it might be fuel issue but then surely switching between fuels would resolve this. I hope someone on here might have some ideas on how I can locate problem as it's driving my daft and makes me a bit worried to do long miles as dono't know when it's going to happen. Many thanks Dr W
  14. Thank you so much for doing that. I'm going to try and have a go tonight if I manage to leave work on time so will let you know. It was mainly which way the hook fastened as I think i was trying to fasten it too far along the metal rod. Cheers
  15. That would be very kind of you. I struggled for ages on Sunday but just couldn't figure out which way it was supposed to fit and didn't want to beak the thing. Cheers Dr W
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