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steve200TDi

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steve200TDi last won the day on July 6 2018

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About steve200TDi

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    ...not 90 not a 200TDi now its a TDious 5

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    West Sussex

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  1. When you hit reply on a post it'll bring up a box (like I've attached) and you hit the choose file below where you're typing, it'll be high lighted in blue. Then once it's uploaded, you can press the '+' to add it into the text, like here: And then you can carry on typing! Hope this helps! Steve
  2. We (I!) would also like to see your comp safari racer!! Regards Steve (a fellow comp safari racer!)
  3. Would this be the one? https://www.blocklayer.com/pipe-notching.aspx I googled tube notching calculator! Steve
  4. I think the yellow arrow is a Parrot hands free control unit. Steve
  5. One brand I know of is oetiker clip. Most of these style clips need a special tool to fit them as you crush a tab to clamp it on hence why they are only really single use. The factory would use an electronic tool to apply the same force to tighten the clamp. Jubilee clips would work well as at least you know they are tight! Steve
  6. I thought those clamps were single use, but you may be able to remove and refit them, but it's going to be fiddly! You could use jubilee clips as an alternative. For ease repair you could remove the cooler entirely so you can have a look at it on the bench. Steve
  7. Another avenue to pursue! I'll certainly be having a look at the oil and in through the filler hole and probably removing the diffs too! Thanks Steve
  8. An update on this. Yesterday I took the lower cover plate off of the auto box to expose the internal flywheel, torque converter, flex plate. I also removed the little inspection hole cover plate too. On rotating the engine it all looks perfect; no oil, no cracks, no noises, nothing! So I find it hard to believe something can be making a noise in there! So the plan going forward: - Replace engine mounts - as they need doing! - Inspect and service starter motor - I did think that if the starter motor gear doesn't return fully then it could catch and make a noise. I'm not entirely sure how it works, will have a look at a spare in the shed, but it wouldn't hurt to remove and inspect anyway. Hopefully I can do both of those without removing the exhaust, but we'll see! Then it'll be a test drive/use and see if the noise comes back. If it does, I'll be onto inspecting the diffs! Steve
  9. With the chassis end in (and maybe a nut to hold it captive) you can jack up the axle end of the radius arm. You may need a little lever bar to get the tube of the bush located. You should be able to get one bolt in and then it'll be a question of rocking or rotating the axle to get the second bolt located. As Bowie has said some ratchet straps could be useful along with lever bars and the pointy lever bars too! Steve
  10. I read this thinking Chris was thinking of doing this, it's plausible, he has a 110 to sell, but he's just recently bought that.......I know he does like changing cars!.... Then I read the date!!! 11 years ago! Steve
  11. I thought the same thing as it has a 'limited slip' diff, but maybe more torque needs to be applied rather than just a hand?! Yes, I've just been reading up on all the flex plate aligning threads! Steve
  12. I already checked, it has no brake dust shields!! Yes, maybe an engine out job......The engine mounts need replacing anyway and so it's only a few more bolts! Steve
  13. Thanks Bowie, alway a wealth of knowledge! Steve P.S. Regarding the flex plate, how is the sound achieved? Where does it crack and how does it still transmit drive?! I guess you wouldn't see much (or anything) looking through the access hole of the bell housing - as I didn't!
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