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steve200TDi

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steve200TDi last won the day on July 6 2018

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About steve200TDi

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    ...not 90 not a 200TDi now its a TDious 5

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    West Sussex

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  1. Regarding the sweep of the wipers, I used a bit of maths. I didn't touch the arm of the wiper motor and so I measured that and multiplied it by two to get the linear distance of the wiper motor. I then worked out the arch I wanted to wipe on the windscreen. Using these two fixed parameters I could then do the Maths to work out what length arm I needed to make to weld onto the back of the wiper spindle. Thinking about it now (I'm trying to think what I did now!!!) I may have gone down the Pythagoras route and fixed the swept arch to 90 degrees. That way you can work out the other two sides of the triangle. If you were to draw it out 1 to 1 scale you can increase the arch angle and you just need to make you wiper arm (the one you weld on) shorter. Hope that makes sense! Steve
  2. When I fitted the standard clutch spring of this variety, I put the spring in a vice to compress it and then added two cable ties each side to hold it. I then offered up into place and started cutting the cable ties until it popped into place. I haven't had experience with this new stronger spring though. Steve
  3. The TD5 radiator sits on two posts on the chassis (number 2 is one of them) and brackets 9 and 10 support the side, but I'm sure you could fabricate your own. Also the TD5 intercooler bolts to the radiator. Maybe look on ebay for some used ones. Too late now, but Newbury sort out was on today! Steve
  4. A lot of your questions should be covered in the owners manual regarding jacking points and brake fluid type. Regarding jacking points you should be able to use a trolley jack with an adaptor that sits in the vehicle jacking point. I changed the brakes and discs on my L322 and that was straight forward. I did some research before hand, e.g. googling and youtubing. You might want to check fullfatrr.com as just googling brings that up, it looks like there maybe a hand brake service mode to put it in before changing discs and pads. https://www.google.com/search?q=range+rover+l405+brake+discs+change&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB781GB781&oq=range+rover+l405+brake+discs+c&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j33l2.10869j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post508329.html The usual safety precautions will apply like putting an axle stand under a wishbone or sub frame and unscrewing the brake fluid reservoir. Steve
  5. I like those spiral spanner racks. A bit different to the usual saw tooth rack. I would show you a picture of my socket draw, but i can't find it! Steve
  6. So only one photo today, but all the roof infill panels have been cut and I've glued and riveted this one in position! I've also finally painted the new tubes too!
  7. Tabs done, so ready to make some panels to rivet to the roof. Steve
  8. I like the pyramids! And the wheel is shiiineeey! 😍 Steve
  9. Yes, I have the Discovery set up at the moment and yes it is pain free when changing ball joints. I've been looking at different ways to quicker up the steering and thought I would give this longer defender drop arm a go. Yes, this is 20mm longer than standard so should reduce my lock to lock by half a turn at least. Annoyingly they don't seem to make discovery style drop arms in the longer length, so I thought I would give this a go as it's a relatively cheap option. Steve
  10. It must be the angle! But yes, it will be getting replaced! Steve
  11. So it was time to make the new tubes fit. I started by using a hole saw to get somewhere close. This was done by eye and a bit of guess work earing on the side of caution not to cut them to short. Using all of that I got somewhere very close which only needed a bit of filing on one tube and a slither being cut off on the other, so I was very happy with that! The trusty pillar drill Some notching The new notched tubes against the old. Then it was time to do final fitting to make them as close as possible. I then got the welder out and did some practice on the tube off cuts to get the right settings and make sure I was happy with it. I cleaned up the tube ends with sand paper, cleaned them with solvent and tacked them into place. Then welded them in! They are fairly symmetrical, so I was happy with that. I now need to add some tabs for the roof skin, then I can paint it and patch the roof up and add a new roof scoop. Then I can move on the next job which is steering system overhaul. I bought on! So we'll see how it fairs once I finally get it all done! Steve
  12. I opted for a Bearmach unit and I added an extra coat of paint to it as well. I can't remember how many years I had it after that before I sold it, but I didn't need to do anything to it and it didn't leak! Steve
  13. Ta Da! https://www.paddockspares.com/red-stop-tail-lamp-led.html Steve 😃
  14. Hi, I had the same exact issue! This seal runs on the cv joint just under the 'cup end. You will have to measure the seal land as FTC840 has a larger inner diameter compared to FTC3145. The difference is about 2mm! Around the '91 to '94 Land Rover did quite a few changes and I found this out the hard way by ordering parts that didn't fit. even the stub axle was superceded! Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info as I have done this exact job recently! Steve
  15. Ooow nice! Things to note: Titanium caliper brackets! The front winch holds 85m of rope! Steve
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