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steve200TDi last won the day on April 13

steve200TDi had the most liked content!


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  1. So the general gist is that you may need to replace your fuel hose and o-rings on your injectors, but it should run fine in your Rover V8? Steve
  2. That's some impressive work @Simon_CSK. I imagine it's not easy trying to trim the panel to fit and get it exactly in the right position. It's also not easy taking an angle grinder to a shiny Range Rover! I would be interested in a more indepth write up, or just even some pictures from the inside as I guess there was a second skin to sort out? A friend has a van with a big stoved in part down one side, but it's not an easy job to repair something like that! Steve
  3. I'll have a look, but from what you've written, that's good to know. My potential new garage is approx 15 sq meters and so one tine could be enough! Steve
  4. I love that, good find @Bowie69 I like the looks and you got to love a proper hand built rough around the edges prototype vehicle. It also looks a bit like the Lamborghini LM002. And you can do the Dakar at the weekend! Steve
  5. That's good to know, it seems to have got good reviews on Screwfix. It says coverage is about 11m squared per litre. Hows much did you use per metered square with and without thinning. I'll be doing mine when I exchange and complete! Steve
  6. No, I'm happy with my Range Rover, I was just curious as I thought they might have been more stuff there for the new model. I guess in reality it takes a while to get a new product to market and to do the R and D on it. Steve
  7. I see from the photos that there were new model Defenders there. Were there many stalls selling add ons for them, e.g. snorkels, light bars, suspension etc? Steve
  8. If people have watched 4x4 24 7 on you tube from down under, they make that little wheel arch cover into a storage compartment that goes right through to the other side. As chopping the back of your toyota off, extending the wheelbase and adding a flat bed is quite common in Aus! Steve
  9. I suppose I hadn't really considered my lego playing skills a good introduction to trailer reversing, as I did do a lot of manoeuvring on my bedroom carpet! I also have good spacial awareness and am more of a visual learner and so I think that has helped in my trailer reversing. I too took my trailer test about 6 years ago now as I had bought a racer which needed towing and me being one for doing things within the law booked on for some training and a test as I had no previous towing experience. It taught me how to hitch and unhitch and reverse which I had no experience of. As I don't tow regularly, when I do, it's a major undertaking and I double check that I've hitched up correctly every time and completely change my driving style checking mirrors more and braking earlier as you've got a lot of weight behind you! Steve
  10. Good to know, I'll probably order some as I have some metal sheers and a vice to clean up and paint. Steve
  11. From looking at your pictures and reading the mk2 instructions I have noted the following: - The circlip groove does need to be on the nearside with the curved bracket and drive flange. - The offside with the straight bracket and freewheeling hub accepts the half shaft up against a circlip. - From looking at the illustration of the cut away of where the shaft sits inside the free wheeling hub and oil seal plate (in the mk2 instructions), you can see that the oil seal plate sits quite neat to the end of the shaft (right near the spline) and so if you were to swap the half shaft round it probably wouldn't sit on that machined surface. What is the OD of the half shaft near to the spline with no circlip groove? Steve
  12. A picture may help of the troublesome part, as I'm unfamiliar of the difference between mk2 and mk3 versions. As you say, you may need the mk3 instructions, but I've found the mk2 instructions here: https://foundry4x4.co.uk/pdf/X Eng at Foundry 4x4 X-Deflex Instructions.pdf Regards Steve
  13. While on Facebook, I found a modified Mog diff (and thought of you!) and it turns out it's this one, the same one earlier in this thread. They claim the new shortened diff weighs 19.5kg. Have you weighed yours? Steve
  14. A long overdue update! The autobox was sent here: https://www.automaticgearboxcentre.co.uk/ and they did some checks to it. Oil pump is good, the clutch pack was showing signs of wear, so that was replaced, and the torque converter was also sent away to be checked over. So it all looks good. The transfer box looks ok, the two output shafts turn together and there is resistance between the two, i'll check it again once it's back in. So last week, I finished the chassis repair behind the gearbox crossmember (interesting rust was holding it in and was a pain to remove with hammers etc....it just slide in on refitting...I was surprised!), gearbox and transfer box in along with wiring, starter (gear spring back so no signs of it catching on the starter ring), handbrake etc. I also removed the flexplate and starter ring and it was all perfect, no cracks or nicks etc. So my Dad will be fitting the seats and propshafts this weekend. Everything else is fitted and we'll add some oil next week and see if it moves, then it'll be onto an MOT and go and use it. Unfortunately we haven't found anything definitive that has caused the noise and so we'll have to wait and see if it comes back, is still there or we find it now we've disturbed a lot of things! Steve
  15. Excellent work as always! I may have to steal this idea for a roller. I could add the top roller to by press to create the change in height and the two roller can be attached to the bottom plate. An idea added to the jobs for the future bank! Steve
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