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Everything posted by steve200TDi

  1. steve200TDi

    custom dash project

    Good progress! It'll be interesting to see where all the dash parts lie in relation to your new wiper set up. Steve
  2. steve200TDi

    Steering box adjustment or UJs & bushes

    Check by removing the uj's and testing for movement, then you'll definitely know if it (the uj) is worn. Also check the drop arm is tight on the output shaft, I've had it before where there's a slight amount of up and down movement on the drop arm. This is eliminated by tightening the output shaft nut up. Steve
  3. steve200TDi

    Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    So the rear axle is back on and it now sits back on it's four wheels. Now to address the bent tubes! The passenger side took the brunt, with the drivers side looking a little bent from previous outings and so I will replace both. With all the rivets drilled out. I could then trim the roof to access the tubes to be cut out. I will then decide to patch the holes or trim whats left of the roof back further. I also took the roof scoop off. Next step is a bit of chopping! Steve
  4. I've always fancied having a go at Comp Safari racing, but didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Bowler wildcat or Simmbugghini, just in case i didn't like it! About two months ago I found something I liked, went to have a look at it and bought it! It looks nicer with the big tyres on, but I didn't get those! Nice small tyres for racing! So with the help of Chris (GBMUD) for towing and work for their loan of a very nice triple axle tiltbed trailer we went and picked it up! As it was the owners last land rover based vehicle it came with spares for everything! Gearbox, propshafts, diffs, halfshafts etc etc and a spare set of wheels and tyres, oh and a couples of axle casings! As it is so short it fitted in the garage nicely along with all the spares!! If you're wondering, it's and Allard Racer. Apparently chassis number one or the first to have ali body panels. It's based on a 100inch range rover classic chassis with a 4.2V8 auto set back with radiator and fuel tank in the back. Steve
  5. steve200TDi

    Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    Ooow, that does move a lot! Steve
  6. steve200TDi

    Snorkel tube to roll cage bracket

    I did this on the racer. And I've still got to do this on the 90 I got some clamp brackets laser cut Steve
  7. steve200TDi

    TD5 10p/15p

    Ok, yes you could replace it. So yes you've done a compression test, but I was also referring to a pressure tested the cylinder head i.e. strip cylinder head block up all holes and fill with water on the fuel and coolant side and see if it holds pressure. Then you can see if it has cracked! Steve
  8. steve200TDi

    TD5 10p/15p

    The fuel pressure is different between the two so you would need the correct ECU along with the injector codes. And also the fuel pressure regulator is different too. Have you pressure tested the cylinder head so you know it's definitely cracked and not just the cylinder head moving because of the plastic dowels and/or the head gasket itself failing? The compression test - was it down down the glow plug holes (probably not as there's only 4!) or injector holes? Could be a copper washer at fault? Steve
  9. steve200TDi

    Nice home-made 40T forging hydraulic press

    There's something quite satisfying watching the square tube get neatly folded up! Very good Steve
  10. steve200TDi

    New Toy

    Ok cool thanks. To add links, just copy the web address at the top of the page you want to link too and the forum will automatically make it into a linky thing. And hit the 'quote' button on any post to add it into your response. Steve
  11. steve200TDi

    New Toy

    Is this the one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELDER-STAHLWERK-AC-DC-TIG-200-PULSE-a-PLASMA-CUTTER-WELDING-MACHINE-INVERTER/152808973097?epid=1255552468&hash=item23941fe329:g:TwwAAOSw~2VcADoS:rk:10:pf:0 Handy it does plasma cutting too! I have been looking at the R tech tigs like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-Welder-AC-DC-R-Tech-160-Amp-240v-Free-foot-pedal-worth-142/291261362213?epid=645878346&hash=item43d087b025:g:IM4AAOSwhzRai-EK:rk:22:pf:0 But I'm sure it was only £800 when I last looked, but it does come with a peddle! Steve
  12. steve200TDi

    Anyone used a KV6 in a Landy?

    That's one of my favourite build thread, well worth a read! Steve
  13. steve200TDi

    Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    It was/is as to make a new rear axle I need to cut all the brackets off and weld on front brackets. A front axle would be too short, but I do have one of these at home too! Steve
  14. As some of you may know I have a comp safari racer (and race!) I have been researching all things steering related when it comes to making the steering faster and thought an info dump would be good so that other people can add to it too! A standard steering box is about 3.5 to 3.75 turns lock to lock (that may be with no steering stops!) with small comp safari tyres on. I have heard (mainly on ebay descriptions and trawling the internet) that you can redrill the swivel housing arm to move the track rod end pivot point further towards the swivel pivot point. This would reduce your lock to lock by about half a turn, but your steering box would have to work harder as the leverage has reduced. You would also need to make a tapered drill to drill the tapered hole for the TRE! I was going to go down this route for my comp safari racer, but now I'm looking at steering quickeners!. I had original thought that a steering quickener would damage the steering box because of the quicker rotation, you can get them in 1:1.5 or 1:2, but it appears not. So by opening up the power steering pump holes to improve oil flow then a quickener would apparently work as you need faster oil flow. Again this is from word of mouth on forums that I have read. Now this set up apparently works well, but it would be good to get some more feedback on this. Another thing I have read is about lightening the input shaft or quill shaft as it's sometimes known. Apparently ACR (https://www.automotivecomp.com/) offered this product to enable the box to turn easier, but again I have found no information on this at all! Other things that contribute to sharp precise steering are: Caster - If you have a spring lift then you may need castor correction radius arms or castor correction swivel housings - I suspect I may need to look at this as its quite twitchy on the straight! Steering damper - I guess this would help, but by how much I'm not sure. That's all the info I have found so far and would be grateful for people to add to this with their experiences and knowledge so that it's here for everyone and also for me to use to formulate a plan for my steering system for next year! Thanks in advance. Steve
  15. I may be swaying towards a longer defender drop arm and a pump tweak. As Bowies says it's a nice and simple solution! Steve
  16. steve200TDi

    Steve200TDi's New Racer!!

    I did! I wont do it again........that's rolling and forgetting the camera 😂 Right, the rear truck arches have gone in the bin! The rear axle is leaking from multiple places and I think I need some new bushes too, so off it came! Yep, we need new bushes! And also one of the axle holes had ovalised and one of the welds had broken, so I chiseled it off and make a new one. Using a 48mm hole saw in some 3-4mm plate and a 5/8 drill to make a nice tight fitting hole. I pressed in some new bushes and bolted it up and tacked it in place! The diff pan has been previously repaired and I've put some weld on there too, so I thought about fitting a new diff pan, but I've just welded it up again after finding all the cracks and will fit a wrap around diff guard for next year. The diff got resealed and I also fitted a new pinion seal and drive flange too! It's all ready to go back on! The shocks got a clean too. There still perfect, so my mocking up and flexing tests paid off as they have no rubbing marks, the rose joints a still perfect and the mounting tabs are all still intact too! Steve
  17. steve200TDi

    Defender TD5 Warning lights panel repair

    You should be able to read the colours off the resistor. Any good electronics place will do them, i.e. RS Steve
  18. steve200TDi

    td5 defender big turbo

    So what did it make? Did you fit steel cylinder head dowels? Why is the breather pipe so long?! What are these bigger injector nozzles you speak of? Steve
  19. steve200TDi

    TD5 clutch

    The clutch release bearing could have collapsed, as they are only plastic. That's what happen on mine when I lost the clutch. I then replaced the clutch as well and nought a stainless steel clutch release bearing from Megasquirt V8 https://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php Steve
  20. steve200TDi

    Interesting industrial drill

    We have a drill press like that at work. Very useful! Steve
  21. I'm one step closer now! With the cable plugged in and the ignition on I was able to see it in the device manager and reinstall the driver and now it displays as comm port 5and I'm seeing live data for temps etc, so will have a play with the engine running! Thanks for the help Jon and Ed! Steve
  22. Oh yes, Windows xp! Steve
  23. I have an ftdi thing on my ecu, but am struggling to get my laptop and ecu to communicate! I'm a bit out of my depth and don't know enough about all the setting you may need. Does it need a driver? I could try reinstalling it? I have tried to find com port locations, but the two I have found both say com1 and com2, not usb..... Some guidance needed please! Steve
  24. steve200TDi

    High SWR reading on CB

    Oh yes, don't worry I have removed the old antenna! And Yes I understood about doing the checks on each setting on the SWR, I just didn't realise that it had polarity going through it! Steve
  25. steve200TDi

    High SWR reading on CB

    So.... I have a confession! I plugged in the SWR the wrong way round. I did not realise that a) that it had polarity and b) it has Ant and Tx on the front corresponding to the rear connections! Anyway, I fitted a new antenna mount and even fitted a new antenna too as I had a spare! And I trimmed 35mm off of it to reduce the SWR to 1.5 - 2.5. So we'll see how it performs this weekend! Oh and out of interesting I tested the existing antenna and mount the SWR was over 3! Thanks for all the help. Steve P.S. Sorry, the forum moved the picture round like that - It wasn't me!

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