steve200TDi

Good news! I look forward to seeing some pictures when it's finished. Steve

You would start by feed the h section onto the ali, so feed about have on to make a 'u' shape, then you can slide the window in and then it just a case fitting the rest of the h section around the window and getting it lined up with the ali. You will find you will need to push the glass and apply a bit of pressure and then the seal will slide around the ali sit in its propper position ready to add the locking strip. Hopefully that makes sense, it's a little tricky to describe! Steve

Hi, I've refitted alpine lights and the rear side windows, the smalls one either side of the rear door. I reused the seals, but if your using new seals then I would say the following: - The 'H' section seal, the one you fit first, is straight forward enough to fit by feeding in the glass slotting over the ali body word. - The tricky bit is fitting the 'locking' seal. I managed with some soapy water in a squirty bottle and a smallish flat bladed screwdriver and slowly feed it into the gap all the way round. One thing you will find is that you'll have to get each end started first then do the middle bit as you will then be able to fit all the seal, as appose to starting at one end and finding you have a little bit left over as it has slightly stretched as you were fitting it. I think you can buy a special tool for inserting the rubber strip, but I've got by with the screw driver method and I've fitted half a dozon windows! Steve

I guess I was stating the bleeding obviouse there! Yep one bolt all the way through. The tube is a close fit around the bolt, so a gentle tap maybe needed when you fit the nice new shiny bolt(and it'll clear our a bit of the rust)! Steve

Hi, Well I would take a gues that the bolt has rusted itself into the outrigger/bulkhead, that's probably why you can't turn the bolt, maybe? You may have to cut the bolt between the bulk head and outrigger with hacksaw/grinder and then cut the outrigger off the chassis. Thanks Steve

TD5 clocks in an older land rover - It'll never catch on! As everyone has said lots of info on doing the conversion. I personally can't comment on doing the conversion as I ended up buying the TD5 gauges with a defender 90 fitted to them. Steve

Thanks for that. I might have a go at 'rebuilding' mine as it doesn't work at the moment, so I've got nothing to loose! We'll get the moderators to change your title of 'old hand' to 'Bottle jack rebuild specialist'! Steve

Very interesting! When you lifted up the two rams and removed the 'cover' what holds it on? I'm guessing a threaded collar? I also have the exact same jack which has recently stopped working. You can pump it up without any weight on the jack, but as soon as you apply weight on the jack and try pumping, you push the handle down, the jack goes up, you bring the handle up and the jack goes down again and it repeats like that. Maybe I'll try some of the suggestions. Steve

Yes and Yes! Steve

Here's a more user friendly link! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190788134825?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sadis%3D200%26_ipg%3D50%26LH_SALE_CURRENCY%3D0%26_sacat%3D0%26_samihi%3D%26_samilow%3D%26_fpos%3D%26_ftrt%3D901%26_oexkw%3D%26_udhi%3D%26_sabdhi%3D%26_ftrv%3D1%26_udlo%3D%26_sabdlo%3D%26_adv%3D1%26_sop%3D12%26_dmd%3D1%26_okw%3D%26_nkw%3D190788134825%26_rdc%3D1 Steve

Have a look in my build thread, specifically here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76471&p=686786 As this is what I've done, routed the cable through the mirror arm. Steve

If there's a lot of wiring to be removed and you are adding wires for megasquirt and maybe other things then it maybe worth removing all the trunking and insulation tape from the loom and removing the complete wires. Then you can add all the megasquirt cables etc and reinsulate it all and add trunking. I appreciate this could be a very time consuming process, but it will be nice and neat. Have a look at what Adam001 is doing here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76920&p=691684 Once you've removed all the wires you don't need and add all the wires you do need then you can re insulate it all! Steve

Following on from the used inlet v gasket of a V8, how about a used TD5 injector harness - pre oiled to give all the injector faults you crave! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-TD5-injector-harness-/130837225843?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e7681a173

Depending on time scale and state of the pick up, if you say the 200tdi engine is already out sitting on a pallet then fit this to your 110? or where ever it's going. Fit the engine you take out, providing it's ok/servicible, into your new 110 pick up. Then get an MOT on the pick or if it already has an MOT then drive it about for a bit, see if you can gather the parts you need in the coming months. If you can, great and you can sell the pick. If not then break the pick up and use the parts, but you will probably/may get left with parts that are not sellable, no one wants, lower in value? So that could be a good reason to kepp it for a couple of months to gather the parts you require and then sell it on. Steve

Sounds like a good vehicle, with all the crucial bits galvanised. I would look at fitting TD5 gauges as this is a really good upgrade and there's loads of info on here about fitting them. Steve

At the moment, no! It took an awfully long time to just make one. There arn't any moulds as such, as the steel frame is the shape of the dash and the internal structure. I guess I could make a mould of the dash to then produce an injection moulded one, which them may not need the steel strengthening inside. It will probably need some sort of steel structure inside for it to mount to the dash. Steve

Hi, Give X-Eng a ring, there very helpful and will answer all your questions. http://www.x-eng.co.uk/ Steve

Excellant news! I'm in! Providing the weathers good and my TD5 is finished! Steve

Hi, I needed to expand my central dash area. I looked at the TD5, Mud and Raptor dash, they were all ok, but quite liked the idea of something like the tomcat dash where the central consol area is angled towards the driver. I decided to have a go at making my own dash. I decided I would make a steel frame and them wrap stretchy fabric over it and fibreglass it. I also wanted to add some volt gauges (Thanks Walfy) directly above the speedo, fuel gauges etc. I would modify a standard defender speedo binacle to house the volt gauges and make it seperate from the centre dash. I first made a cardboard model of both parts. This was easier said than done as I wanted to get the right angle of the centre dash so that it was facing the driver. I eventually came up with this: And mounted in the vehicle, you can see that it sits above the top of the existing dash but does not affect forward vision. I first made the volt gauge pod. What I wanted to do was to add a surround to the top of the defender binacle which would house two volt gauges. There is just enough room between the top of the binacle to the top of the inner edge of the steering wheel. So with the aid of some card I made a pod which has the same curvature as the inner edge of the steering wheel. I then drew it in CAD and then got Simon R to make it out of plastic on his rapid prototyping machine. I then cut the top edge of the binacle out and glued the new part in so keeping the same top edge of the binacle. I finished it off by adding a steel hoop behind so that I could stretch some fabic over it to form the back contour. I later then fibreglassed it. I then purchased 6m of 6mm steel rod to make the centre dah. I didn't expect to use all of it, but I nearly did. So with a lot of cutting bits to length and offering it up to the cardboard dash and a small bit of welding in situ I came up with this: This joins up neatly to the new volt gauge pod. It very tightly fits around the top of the dash making a very strong structure. It pick up of the two inner screen vent screws and two new holes drilled down below. I then stretched some fabic over the sides and painted fibreglass resin over it. Once it had set I could move onto another side until all sides were done like this: I then added two layers of fibreglass matting on the inside. With some sanding and filling I have made a fairly smooth outer surface (Just the resin'ed fabric gave a nice finish). I then cut the holes for my radio and switches, an gave it a coat of paint: And its all fitted! I still need to wire up the volt gauges and add a few switches and 12v supplies, but it's finally fitted. This has taken a long time to complete (as some of you know!), doing bits here and there. You can still access the windscreen vents and still change gear! Now this is done I can start continue with my rollcage and wings! Steve Since completing the dash I have been using it for the best part of a year now and it's been brilliant. You can use all the switches and radio with leaning forward to reach them. I've complete a couple of winch challenges with it and that has proved perfect with the switch layout. Also when I fit this to the TD5, (I was fortunate to get an early one with the same dash, so it will fit straight in) I'll be fitting 4 point harnesses and you definitly can't lean forward in those. It's probably a very time consuming way of making a dash, it was for me, but it's exactly what I wanted!

Ah!.......I'll see what I can do. Steve

The lights I have on the Blue one have suffered badly (mainly the passenger one) with water ingress and the LED's are slowly diminishing. Hence I had to re instate a standard side light as the MOT man said that my side light was less that 50% illuminated! The new ones are IP67 rated so hopefully no water ingress and from close inspection they have surface mount LED's (tiny square ones) which is just and observation. And I made new perspex windows. Steve

Right here's a quick picture of my new rear lights. And the mod to the fog lights, I'll be having two, one each side. Steve

I know over Christmas that I couldn't post any pictures (about 3 posts), but I have gone back and re added the three posts afterwards but with pictures added. So now it looks like there's no pictures, but if you keep reading you'll see that it repeats threee posts, but they have pictures in. Let me know if there are any bits you would like pictures of and I'll add some. I've tried to add the same pictures on here as Innovate. Steve

Well 2 x fogs actually! Nice and symetrical! I'll be making sure that they're well sealed and I've done a wiring mod too! If you're refering to mine, I just welded the capping up and I'll probably seal it to the tub when I rivet it on. Steve

Well I'm putting fog lights in the rear crossmember (come on Nige....keep up!) and I'm putting my lights in the rear window! I'll add a picture this evening! Steve