alfaman

It would seem that Mr Turner has already given me an answer to my seemly minor worry.

Update, I sent some pictures via email to Turner Engineering and asked the question if my problem with the cracks are terminal or not, the reply was uplifting to say the least. This is what the bossman himself said "Good to see in focus decent close up pictures for a change. Minor cracking of this nature you can disregard as casting is so thick in these areas that this will not affect fit, function or purpose. The micro cracks may have been there for years. It will cause more problems trying to rectify (weld) than simply leaving it alone."

Update on Paddocks, just got an email back after asking if what their website is showing is available or not, their answer was " RTC6896 is not live on our website as we no longer sell them. I believe that Google may have given you an old link to a part that we used to sell. Unfortunately this cylinder head is obsolete and therefore no longer manufactured by Land Rover."

One person I contacted in UK, said "Sorry I haven't got the head you need, and to be honest the last one I did was a complete pain and said I would never do one again." Paddocks shows it as, add to Wish List, I'm guessing it's not readily available. Unfortunately I didn't say I was outside of UK, my bad. I've looked at what's available, unfortunately the current pictures don't tell the whole picture. I've sent an email with pictures to a local engine repair place, here in Holland, hopefully they can fix the problem. My previous post still stands for myself and others who may be faced with a similar problem in the near future. Is there a viable option that's suitable to keep the vehicle on the road. Or will old age finally put those cars in the grave.

I am now finding myself to be in this position where my head gasket let go between the combustion chamber and the water way on No3 cylinder. After getting it towed home and removed the bits to fix it, unfortunately I've found the head has a crack between the valves on No3. My vehicle is a 200tdi Defender with all the normal Defender manifolds, front covers, pipes, etc. I'd like to know/clarify with those of you who've attempted/done the swap with a 300tdi cylinder head. From what I can gather, one needs: Injectors, rocker shaft assembly, rocker cover and thermostat output. The fuel hard lines are not informative enough to know if the the ones that fit a Discovery will fit a Defender, yes bending is required, but will they fit? The other thing I can't fully work out, yes the original 200tdi pistons will not be correct for 100% fuel efficiency as the combustion position is off. Will it work enough to be usable for a while? If the pistons require replacing for a long term solution (my bores do actually need a honing, during strip down cleaning) what's the correct combination of pistons/con-rods that will fit in the block?

I've managed to obtain some new replacement discs to fit to the trailer, but they need machining from the original Ford fitment for use on the trailer. Unfortunately I have come across a problem here in Holland, I can not find a small engineering firm, or any firm, who is willing to turn the centre out and drill 5 holes to be able to fit the hubs. After 2 weeks of searching, I've lucked out and found on the X-MOD website a pair of machined discs and got them sent to me here in Holland. Now I have a set of perfectly suitable discs that need machining, does anyone know anybody in the EU, preferably Holland, who is up for the task? Failing that, when I'm next back in Blighty, I can either find someone who can do the machining or sell them on, hopefully they'll have better luck.

I've managed to find a supplier for the said oil seals from https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p25175/63x90x10mm-Nitrile-Rubber-Rotary-Shaft-Oil-Seal-with-Garter-Spring-R21-/-SC/product_info.html?backstep=1 After ordering the correct NSN 5330991099998 from the XMOD website, doing measurements with the pricy NSN one and the ones from Simply Bearings, they are the same size. If anyone already knows this info, fine. If not, could the MODS put this somewhere for the others out there.

Another update for those who'd like to know. Paddocks are now, finally, going to replace my damaged chassis. It's being built and will be delivered in a couple of weeks. Apparently, due to the ending of the Defender production line, GKN now only build chassis by hand now, they have taken the robotic system offline but they still have the jigs available. F.Y.I., Marsland order books won't be officially open until sometime in February. As far as I know, the reason for the lengthy delay has been because no-one had any stock left and Xmas put the proverbial spanner in the works. Reading between the lines, it would seem as the chassis I ordered before Xmas from Paddock, supplied by Marsland, was one of the last ones they had in stock. Ho hum.

Just doing the formal request thing, right now. I'm not touching it, was told by the experts (GKN), so for now, its sat covered from the elements, waiting for Paddocks to pull their finger out of their ?!?

Acceptance of delivery isn't the issue, the delivery driver was made aware of the damages done. He took photos, he got me to say on the delivery paperwork it was damaged. I also took lots of photos of all the damages and sent them directly to Paddocks and to the delivery company in about 10 minutes after I took the photos. I had a reply the following day from Paddocks that they were sorry that there is a problem and we are looking into it. Thats as far as it's got, so far. Paddocks were paid for delivery and even after me explaining to Paddocks that a 40' articulated lorry would not be able to get down a Farm track, let alone turn around, they were adamant that the delivery company will deliver it in a 40' lorry. I told the delivery company to use a vehicle that was big enough for the chassis or take it back to England. That took 2 weeks to sort out, the numpty in Paddocks couldn't see that a 40' articulated lorry is both too tall and too heavy to clear the low hanging trees and drive on boggy ground. A few of my work colleagues and me still had to help the small truck manoeuvre as he was having difficulty. In case you're wandering, the small truck was actually just big enough for the chassis and the box part was made of Aluminium. No way was the chassis going to move enough to have the damages its got to it, the chassis would've damaged the box part.

I don't think thats a good idea, personally. I think most of us know who are the companies to avoid, etc. I've used this company for many years with different Landys I've owned, even when I worked in the Middle East. I have, so far, never had an issue with getting lost, damaged or incorrect parts resolved by them, and they have done it extremely quickly. This is, I hope so, mostly due to the worst time of the year to get things done. Everyone ceases to function properly over Xmas. Snagger, I wouldn't mind betting you've experienced the frustrations that Ramadan causes? I know I have, and when both of them coincide, deep joy.

Oh, goody. Manager isn't available today. Was told that the information was passed yesterday and was also told that the Manager is planning to get back to me by the end of the week. I said, I want someone tomorrow to phone me and tell me something, anything.

So far, Paddocks still haven't got back to me, either by email or phone. I phoned yesterday @ around 2:30 (UK time) and asked to speak to the supposed Customer Advisor Manager, that I was told its been passed on to; he's in a meeting. Ok, fine, could you please get the said person to call me back. "Ok, I'll endeavour to get him to call you" It's now 15:20 (UK time), the following day - nothing at all. I have managed to track down the exact place these chassis are made ( GKN - in Telford) and managed to have a chat with a knowledgeable person who confirmed my suspicions with the front cross-member. It's not repairable, plain-n-simple. Whilst waiting for Paddocks, yesterday, to phone me back. I contacted the said company that handled the delivery, here in France, and they haven't received any communication from Paddocks, either. So, off to try to speak to 'the Manager' again.

Thats the problem, still don't know what they are going to do yet, it's been 3 weeks. Xmas holidays put everything on hold. All I know, today, finally, it's escalated up to the Manager. Whomever that is?

Marsland dont deliver abroad, I don't think they deliver anymore. It's palmed off to Paddocks now, I think.

Unfortunately, direct bank transfer.

Hi, I am now the proud owner of a shiny new galvanised chassis that was finally delivered before Xmas, but it's obvious that due care and attention wasn't adhered to during its travel "in the back of a lorry" consequently it has suffered a few impact damages and I’m most likely going to have to fix it myself or order another one and hope it doesn’t fall into the same fate as this one. I decided to get the chassis from Marsland Chassis as I didn't really fancy the extra weight that Richards Chassis make. Also Richards had a lead time that would have meant it would not have arrived before Xmas. Marsland Chassis so far have said, we don't do repairs, we buy the chassis from the factory, you bought it via Paddocks you deal with them or you fix it yourself, locally. According to Paddock Spares, they are still looking into it, 3 weeks now. Their latest advert says "Export specialists - from small packets to 40' containers" As you'll see from the photos, a few of the sticky out bits were hit, my main concern is the damage to the front cross-member. As far as I can tell, the front cross-member is an important part for structural integrity. Now it has a weak point in it, will it fold at that point, in an accident? Don't know, don't want to test it either. The rear cross-member damages are at the extremities, but for now, I've no idea how to go about fixing them. Any one up for ideas? Whilst I'm waiting for Paddocks to make a decision on something and before I attempt to make some form of repair, my question to those that know more than me, is it fixable/worth it? All I know, if it is fixable, welding is required. How do I get galvanising back on the inside of the affected area? Will the front of the chassis move, upsetting the position of the suspension/steering fix-points? What sort of jig will be needed to keep the chassis aligned during welding? So far, this lump of metal has cost a total of £2600, from Paddocks and to get it delivered, in France.

Try the link above.

I did, I can e-mail it to you, if you want. I've managed to convert the PDF into 4 pictures so I've placed them into my gallery. Try here

I can confirm that this mod works. Aside from what I've already mentioned, nothing else has been moved/tweaked/bent or adjusted to get this mod to fit. The previously posted pictures give you an idea in what to do. In actual fact a pretty simple mod. The only other thing I've done against the norm, is re-route the main power/charge cable from the Alternator behind the exhaust to the Starter motor. It's encased in two layers of heat protection sleeving for good measure and also held in place by 'p-clips' behind the turbo oil return line. I've been driving it around now for a few hundred miles, apart from re-tensioning the belt to the alternator, nothing has gone wrong. No knocks and no signs of rubbing anywhere. Regards

The yellow connector is for the Voltage Sensitive Switch. I have one of those on my dash with a Yellow relay in it. It should have 3 wires connected to it, Black, Brown and a Black/Slate. Hope this helps.

It's close, but, no. I've got about 5mm of clearance. The rubber/silicone hoses can be trimmed a bit to give a bit more clearance, if needs be the silver intercooler hose can be given another flat spot in the right place , it's got two of them already. The flat spot you can see was closer to the Filter Housing than the Alternator looks now. When I get the new engine loom, I'll be able to start the car up and check for fouling/knocking in that area, for now it looks good. As soon as I can confirm all is good with this modification, I'll update this topic for all to know.

The part number you've suggested won't fit. The one I got through the post won't fit and I paid £80 to find that one out ; the distance between the 'ears' are smaller, by 10mm. The one that does fit, with a small amount of jiggling, is the AMR4248G and costs £135, from Paddocks. I took the serpentine pulley off and fitted the original V pulley back on. I swapped the original tensioner strap/bolt/spacer combo from it's original place with the far right water pump bolt. Both bolts torqued to the 25Nm as per Workshop manual. The tensioner strap needed a bit of bending to clear the alternator housing. So far, easy going. Just waiting for AutoSparks to send my new engine harness, then I can up-rate the cable to the Alternator to cope with the extra juice, keeping the smoke inside the cable . For info. my car is a Defender 90 LHD with the original 200 Tdi unit. Not the Disco engine. The Alternator is fitted as it came with no other modifications other than a few tweaks here and there, not to the Alternator but to other bits around the engine bay. The AMR4248G (Denso) I received has a 4 bolt casing, which means I had to fit it with the adjusting ears on the outside instead of the normal position of being on the inside (next to the engine block). The normal M8 bolt was replaced with a longer one with a spacer and nut, the original adjustment ear is threaded to M8, the new one has a bigger hole (say M10 size). The Power-steering box pipes were tweaked a bit to give more clearance to allow for adjusting the Alternator. Unfortunately the AMR4248G Alternator diameter is slightly bigger than the original A127 one. Pictures below;

The bolts didn't fall out, neither did they work loose. The drive flange stayed in place, the shaft popped out enough to loose drive. I know the shafts do slip and slide a bit, never heard of one sliding that much to loose drive.

He still had the shaft, it just came away from the 'diff' end to lose drive. He already tried a new drive flange. I've no idea as to the condition of the splines. I personally haven't heard of this issue. He was just asking me as to what could be causing the problem, as I've no idea, I thought those who are more knowledgeable than me/in-the-know might be able to shed some light.