series 3

unfortunately it has come to pass that i have to sell my land rover moving house, paying bills and the capri (bill for welding up to a shocking £1200 now) have pushed me to make a tough choice and it looks like ive got to lose the landy as its the only thing ivegot worth any money (hopefuly). a fellas coming to look at it tomorow. ive a rough idea what to sell it for but il tell you whats on it and you can tell me what you think its worth. (im in northern ireland and currently there arent any for sale on the large websites in this country. does this affect the price for the better?) its a 1983 series 3 long wheelbase ex military landy with three previous owners. the work done on it: bodywork stripped four new outriggers welded on and a new rear section aswell (pretty neat job if i say so myself ) chassis taken to bare metal, primed and hammerited. new brake lines made, new drums, shoes, cylinders and springs on all corners new slave cylinder for clutch bulkhead footwells both replaced, painted and sealed chequer plate floor panels fitted all leafs replaced with long travel performance shocks fitted new full exhaust system fitted (standard) new battery engine runs lumpy at idle but starts easy even after 6 months out, revs nicely and drives well gearbox in good nick but can only go into third at the moment for reasons unknown bodywork: would need a respray to look its best from bulkhead forward in perfect nick doors need large repair or replacement interior of cab complete and in good condition back section in repairable state but some aliminium corrosion on underside runners and safety belt mount points hard top in good condition if you wanted to buy it what would you be prepared to pay for it? also any tips on haggling/selling would be much appreciated cheers

hi all, decided to have a look at buying new panels instead of bothering trying to repair anything too annoying. ive put out feelers in all the usual places gumtree etc but theres not alot goin is anyone form this site situated in ireland or know of anywhere in ireland that breaks landys? cheers

woops your spot on, it is the filter. thanks for not nailing me for being a bit slow on the uptake . i probably havent dug deep enough, ill sort that this weekend. cheers varsas i cant see the post on door repair until ive signed up to the webiste unfortunately. you couldnt copy and paste it onto this thread by any chance for us could ya? cheers guys thats afew questions sorted, only 4326 to go oh by the way, my capper can be seen if you follow this link: http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32584 i never bothered updatin this thread to be honest so its alot nicer now but still miles from bein drivable.

cheers for the answers folks ive given the possibilities to me da, he's gonna have a look at it and get back to me. update in afew days

its the right hand side when your looking at the engine. he's used a medium sized bottles of oil in the last three weeks on it, that seems like alot to me. thats not normal is it?

my dad noticed an oil leak the other day, its coming from about half way up the engine in his 2.5tdi 90. it leaves a small puddle of oil after about two hours of being parked. is this bad or realy bad? cheers

hey all, its been aaaages since ive posted here and even longer since ive looked at my landy project. but thats all changed, ive written up the final plan for finishing the project and intend to spend the next three weekends putting the time in to get this thing moving. to be honest ive bought a mk1 capri and its taken my attention over entirely (can you blame me ), last week it went to a welder till christmas, so ive got a free garage, an empty wallet and a couple of months to finish this land rover. ive got most of it worked out but theres afew things im still unsure about 1. the accelerator pedal isnt working correctly, you have to push the pedal half way down before the engine will start to rev, ive looked at the mechanism and i cant figure a way to adjust it without breaking bits. 2. the fuel pump that should be attached to the bulkhead is....not attached to the bulkhead. i can see where the bolts go through but cant see where to get the nuts on form the other side. do i have to remove the dash to to get nuts on it or is there nuts in there somewhere welded to the bulkhead or am i missing the plot altogethor? 3. i want to paint the front window frame, can i simply make a key in the metal, stick aliminuim primer on it and paint it? 4.any tips on replacing the passenger side door skin? 5. is there any other way to repair aliminuim bodywork other than riveting or using that alu weld stuff, tried both with limited success but theres gota be a better way thats enough for now i think, any light you can shed on these qaundries would be appreciated. cheers

well it didnt budge an inch in the end. i ended up knocking on me neighbors doors and asking for a push (friendly bunch of folks round my way ) so its in the garage now and since i was gonna remove and overhaul the gearbox and engine anyway its just one more job to add to the list. i actualy got more advice on this site than my capri forum , but maybe they were just busy or summit . thanks a mil to all who helped.

sounds like alot of potential nightmares! but what the hell eh! right im gonna try that now. if it breaks it breaks no point in worrying bout what might happen. thanks to all for advice.

okay things are looking up. its back in nuetral now. i jacked it up and removed the hubs from the rear brakes. the drop on tension allowed the gear to pop out no problem. so what do i do next? should i try it in top gear? "at your own risk" keeps getting used alot, what could i break by doing this? i suppose i dont realy have a choice as the only other option is removal and dismantling. and i dont fancy doing that in my driveway when my garage is only 6 foot away (getting it in requires a three point turn and im on my own today, otherwise id push it).

okay so that aint gonna unstick the clutch. but if i could get it into neutral again and back to square one i could push it into my garage and work on it there. what about using the clutchless shift technique, the one where if youre driving along you can change gear without disengaging the clutch. maybe i start it jacked up and find the rev range and wheel speed that allows me to shift outa first and back to neutral. in answer to rich p, its a cable clutch and ive checked it, its definetly connected and i still have that clutch "feel" at the pedal. will that work?

only crunched when i tried to put it into reverse. other gears just wouldnt go in. felt like brick wall stopping gear from going in, no forcing it in or out. went into all gears when engine was switched off no problem. going to remove back brake pads so the rear wheels can turn, then with it jacked up gonna turn it over again and see if it jolts the plates apart# is this a feasible solution?

okay il admit off the bat that this problem is with my capri but im realy up **** creek with this one and my capri forum isnt yielding any answers yet. so i figured y not ask you guys as the response hear is always brilliant. i started it and tried to put it into gear nothing happened so i killed the engine and put it into first trying to jolt the clutch plates apart tryed to turn over the engine and it didnt do anything. it wont even turn over! so am now stuck with a car jammed in first that wont start. please please please give me some advise on what to do next im properly stuck with this one also brakes are jammed so pushing would be deadly thanx

ah that was one thought we had. the only problem is that we used sealent on the seatbase when bolting it down and the only way to get it off would be to pry it with a screwdriver, bending it badly. Ive definelty learned the hard way that you never fully attach something when theres a chance it may have to come off again to get another part in. well im just gonna bite the bullet and take bits off to put bits on. definetly feels like im going backwards but what can a guy do. thanx for the confirmation.

have you ever been so frustrated youve thrown your coffee mug at the wall. watched it shatter and felt better about everything. Until you realise you are going to have to clean it up. Well i discovered that particular releif method this weekend when i tried to fit the back end from another 109 to my chassis. It just wont fit and the more we mess with it the worse it gets. made some progress in the end and have the back lined up and the bolt holes underneath nearly sitting pretty. Its just the bloody seat base thats the trouble now. its almost as if the back end is longer than it should be or like it was made slighlty differently. Any help for a man at the end of his rag and thinking of reaching for the sledgehammer and giving the whole thing a bit of "gentle persuasion"

hi all am replacing my clutch slave cylinder today and am looking any tips on potential pitfalls or shortcuts to getting er back up an running as quick as possible. thanks in advance

6.5 tons!! thats what im talking bout . The ground conditions are variable but never too rough. We actualy run on thin road tyres , but I think if we r gonna start with something this big we r gonna need something chunky!! Now we know what itll pull, Thats a weight off my mind (pardon the pun). Thanks chaps

Hi all, I drive a series as my user name suggests, But my dads company has a 2003 defender (2.5 turbo diesel shorty). We want to buy a bigger capacity hydroseeder for his business (hydroseeder is essenitaly a big water tank with a pump for landscaping work). The machine weighs about 1 and a half ton unladen, but it holds 900 gallons of water!! Do you think a defender can pull this weight off road with no modifications. Or r we punching above our wieght here. Thanks

Yo all, Me series is ex military. Because of this standard shocks dont fit properly. anyone know of or use brands that they would recomend to me? Do long travel shocks have to be the right length to fit or can i just depress them as much as I like to make them fit?

I had a look at the frost rods and I think thats the way to go. Ive only got about four hours welding experience so Im sorta learning as I go (arent we all). I read that you can tell when aliminium is at the correct temperaturre if you spray oil or lubricant on the area, when it evaporates you know the aliminium is ready to weld. If it burns then the temp is too high. Im probably preaching to the choir here though on that titbit of advice .

Ive been fretting over how to fix the aliminium thats been turining into dust on me bodywork. The most worrying parts are on the rear body. The main parts being where the fixings connect from the chassis to the body. The only thing I can think of is cut it off and stick a new bit on as a patch. Anyone know if i can weld aliminium with a single phase gas mig welder, can i just buy aliminium wire or is it impossible?

Ive been looking for these types of outriggers for a while now and cant seem to find them. They are the rear outriggers for the fuel tanks you can have under your seat. If anyone knows of a website or shop (in ireland) where I can find them can you please tell me. They are for a series 3. Thanks

Yeah Im starting to think that the guy who told me that is full of rubbish, but anyhoo. Speaking of seatbelts, the anchor points on the rear half of my landy for the seat belts for driver and passenger have eaten through the aliminium. This left me with two trapeze shaped holes in my rear body and a whole heap of trouble. I have simply cut a new peice of aliminium with lips all round it, bent them so the peice sits flush with the original metal and riveted them on. I am pretty sure this is an mot failure and am wonderin what can be done about it.

Nah I aint goning for racing seats just becasue I think they are more comfortable (it seems they arent) Im doing it because I want something different from what everyone else has got. I dont think Id get as big a kick from saying to someone "why yes I did put defender seats into my series. Am I crazy or what!", by the way thats not a jibe at anyone who has that in their landy its me explaining my beleif in owning and modding a landy. Have any of you guys ever thought what would be the most ridicuolously attention grabbing and downright insane mod to strap onto your landy and done it? Id love to know.

Its a long wheel base. Does the law have anything to say about this mod that you know about? cause bolting the seats directly to the floor seems a bit dangerous (I have a capri and have put racing seats into it and was told in no uncertain terms that if I bolted seats to the floor and I have a crash they will rip themselves up and you probably know the rest of that situation . I had to get special brackets.