Santiago

Hello Aragorn, Sounds like an easy etst to do. I wil give it a try. Thank you. I have just tried it in the highway and it is clear that I cannot achieve a steady boost above 15 PSI. It mostly stays at 14.5 psi. I was driving uphill at 115km/h, 5th gear. I wil try Aragorns tip and see how it goes. Somebody in the US forum has mentioned that he as experimented with up to 22psi of boost in the same engine. Regards, Santiago

Hi there, I have a question related to the turbo boost in Tdi engines. For the first time since I have my Defender today I checked the turbo pressure of my VNT (TGV as it is known in Spanish) turbo. The engine is an International Powerstroke 2.8L. It is installed in a year 2000 Defender 110 (former Td5). The engine has 130,000kms, it has a moderately tweaked fuel pump (1.5 clockwise turns on the full power screw) , it runs well and has had no problems so far. I have a small (same size as the original IC) uprated Allisport IC and new air hoses all around. I have an EGT gauge installed and with the current IP setup I have to control the throttle in order to keep the exhaust gas temperature below 700C. The thing is that I have just found that my turbo is sending only 15 psi of air to the intake chamber (I am measuring the pressure near the rear of the intake chamber or inatke manifold, don't know the exact name, where the 2.8 has a screw). According to the International 2.8 L manual my turbo should deliver 1.2 bars of pressure (17.4 PSI), but apparently is is currently not achieving this pressure. When stepping hard on the throttle in fourth gear and going up a pretty significant slope, between 2500 and 3000 rpm (the conditions under which I imagine that I should achieve full boost) I only get 15 constant PSI. Just after I step hard on the pedal it goes up to 16 or at the best 17 psi but just for a fraction of a second (maybe for 1 sec?) and then it decreases to 15 PSI. I imagine that the 16 to 17 PSI short peak in pressure must be the overboost stage that I have read about. Given the description given above, do you agree that I should adjust (shorten) the screw in my VNT turbo in order to achieve the 17.4 psi it should deliver? Or am I missing the point and the 17.4 psi (1.2 bars) that the engine's manual refers to is related to the overboost pressure which I am almost achieving for a very short period of time? The manual states that 1.2 bars or 17.4 psi is actually the "operation pressure" of the Garret GT 22 (56V) VNT turbo which I have. My objective is to have the engine recieve the amount of air it is supposed to recieve (as from factory) or perhaps maybe a little bit more. In this regard, any opinions as to Which would be the highest relatively safe operating pressure for my engine / turbo combination? According to what I have read in this forum it appears that a maximum of 18 to 19 psi appears to be the consensus for the 300 Tdi engine. What about the International 2.8 VNT turbo engine? The same should apply or slightly higher? Thank you. Regards, Santiago

Thanks Bowie69. The thing is that my current front suspensions set up does not flex very well and the spring rubs way too much with the chasis. It is not something minor, and the noise it makes is annoying. Any views on the convenience or non convenience of fitting an adjustable panhard rod? I have just measured the lift on my front suspension and it seems it is much more than I thought before. This is due to some recent changes that I had not checked/measured: it is lifted +/-7 cms, almost 3 inches. Has anybody gone the adjustable panhard way? Does fitting one have any downside? Special things to consider? Thanks Stgo

Thank you Aragorn and Wilbur Smith! So it may not be about changing springs again but solving the underlying problem instead. Does anybody know if the length-adjustable panhard rods work well and which is the best one available? I seem to recall one or two brands made in the UK? Gwyn Lewis perhaps? Cheers, Santiago

Hello, Has anyone experienced this issue? My current set up is: 3.3cms home made lift (spacers below the front springs). Koni Raid shocks and Britpart (sorry) springs with a 200lbs/inch rate and 40cms tall (+/- 15.7 inches). The stupid passenger side spring rubs horribly against the frame when I get close to full articulation. The sound it produces is awfull and it even restricts axle articulation. The springs have a 16mm wire instead of the 15mm wire that came originally with the Defender. The overall configuration of the front axle seems just perfect, it seems I cannot blame anything else but the springs. The main question in my mind right now is: is the rubbing just related to the poor build quality of material of the Britpart springs or is there any other problem here. I imagine many of you guyswith winches in the front use an least 16mm thick wire. Has any of you experienced this problem? Any advice on this? Go to better quality springs (like OME?) of just smaller diameter wire? I kind of recall somebody in this forum mentioned had to do with the poor quality of the Britpart springs. Your advice is appreciated. I just do not want to spend money in new springs ad then find out that the problem persists. Thanks for your help. Regards, Santiago

Thanks John

TSD: My Defender is a D110mTd5, year 1999, which has a 2.8 TGV installed instead of the Td5 engine. Therefore I have a 2.8 TGV flywheel (solid, not dual mass as in the Td5) and a Td5 clutch (the original one). It lasted (only?) 128,000 KILOMETRES and I will chnage it.....tomorrow (true). My clutch often rattles at iddle as you mentioned above. When I depress the clutch it usually goes away and comes back later on. I little bit anoying but it is not a big deal. No idea why it happens. Cheers, Stgo

This is what I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-TD5-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-AP-DRIVELINE-FTC4631-/390153027225 Anybody can tell me if it was a good purchase? Not money-wise, I am interested in the quality of the clutch.

Muddy: I just bought a Heavy Duty AP Racing clutch for the Defender Td5 from e bay. I was told it was better than Britpart and better than Valeo and that is why I bought it. Cheers, Stgo

Excellent John, sounds like you have made a very good investment in the OD. I would like to know which tires you have: 265/75/16? It is interesting I had the same problem with my original clutch after installing the Disco transfer ratio and therefore I am about to install a new HD AP Racing clutch, what a coincidence. I am glad it sounds like your AP Racing clutch is doing fine. Last question: did you notice any decrease in performance after installing the Roverdrive OD? I heard the vehicle's reaction is slower because it has to move more gears (the OD gears). Is this correct or just bull****? Cheers, Stgo

Gracias Carlos!

Thanks RTF. Isn´t he Td5 geared the same as the Tdi? At least mine is. I wouldn´t say it is high geared. Well now it is because of the Disco transfer box.... Cheers, Stgo

Thanks Carlos. I have never checked the forum from Spain, perhaps I should. Saludos

Thanks Steve. I phoned KAM this morning and apprently they are the only ones producing 3.8 cw&p for the Sallisbury. I believe I may go the same way as you did (1.2:1 transfer ratio and 3.8 cw&p) using 265/75 to begin with (my curent tires) and if I feel I have some margin I may even try the 285`s some day. Cheers, Santiago

Anybody can help me on who sells a good quality 3.8 crown wheel and pinion set for the front and rear diffs of a D110 (Td5 model 1999, with Sallisbury in the rear). I believe Ashcroft and KAM may be my only two options. Is this correct? Is any of these two better in any aspect? I am evaluating changing my diffs relation to from 3.54 to 3.8 which combined with my Disco transfer ratio (1.22 to 1) should give me something in between regarding gearing. By the way, I run 265/75/16 tires. I currently find my Disco transfer gear relation too high for mountain driving and I may want to avoid going back to the original Defender relation (too low for driving on the flats). There is another post by me related to the other idea which is going back to the original defender transfer gears (1.4:1) and installing an overdrive. Is there anything I need to consider in particular for changing the crown and wheel relationship of my diffs. I have ARB`s in the rear and front. Thanks Santiago

Thank you.

Thanks. However after reading the story it is not clear to me that he was using 33 inch tires after installing the OD. The other thing is the unit was a GKN. I have heard many bad comments about the GKN's performance.

Thanks Snagger, the Roverdrive is certainly appealing. A bit expensive though. If Ralph has a 200Tdi I guess my 2.8 TGV (VNT) should be able to manage the OD. Perhaps he has tweaked it quite a bit. I seem to recall that from another post.

Thank you Western. It is useful data for me. By the way, which engine do you have?

Hi wetsern Thanks for the reply, However there is some confusion: a) I am planning on going back to my Defender transfer gear ratio (1.4 to 1) and installing an overdrive while changing to 33 inch tires. b) I am not planning on using the overdrive while going up the mountains. I am planning on using it while driving on the flats. Overall I will eventually end up with a similar situation as you have (33 inch tires, 1.4 to 1 transfer ratio and overdrive). Do you use overdrive often while on the road? Can you hold it for long intervals? Thaks Stgo

The question is for those with experience using a Roverdrive overdrive (the mechanical Canadian units) in a D110. Will the overdrive work well in a D110 with 33 inch tires on long trips along flat roads or will it be overgeared? My engine is a slightly tuned 2.8TGV engine. I currently run 1.22:1 Discovery gears in my transfer box with 32 inch tires (265/75/16) and it is sort of OK but I will need to use my truck in the mountains more in the future and the gearing is "too long" for that kind of terrain. I will therefore go back to the original Defender gears and probably install an overdrive for long journies on flat roads but the question is: can I go to 33 inch tires (285/75/16) or will it be too much for when using the overdrive? Your opinions will be much appreciated. Cheers SANTIAGO

Hi, I have recently installed four brand new Koni Raid shocks in my 2.8 TGV Defender 110. I tried them today at speed in a rough dirt road we near Mendoza (Argentina) and they are SUPERB. The Defender is another vehicle! Thing is my steering shock absorber is a cheap Britpart one and I would like to see some serious improvement in this respect. What do you recommend as a top quality shock absorber for a D110? Does Koni make steering dampers for Defenders? The only one I have heard good comments about is the OME one. I willl be happy to buy an OME but I just want to check if there are any other options? Is the Old Man Emu really good? Anything even better? I ride 265/75/16 MT BFG by the way. Thanks for your opinions. Cheers Stgo

Red 90, OK, Thanks for the opinion, I will consider that option (removing the rubbers). I had not thought about it before. Please send your lenghts whenever you are able to. There is no hurry for me. Cheers Stgo

Any suggestions?

Here are two pictures: The rubber is 2 cms thick. Ther is an American quarter coin for scale: