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jrjackso

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    Newberg, Oregon USA

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    Work: Research Scientist at Intel. Free time: Hunting, shooting, ballistics, reloading, off-roading, camping, backpacking
  1. Just wanted to close this thread out for others for future reference. Turns out it was my injector pump timing. Here were my symptoms. If let sit for 15+ min it would be really difficult to start. After ~10 sec of glow plugs usually would take 10-15 sec of cranking before it would finally catch and with a big puff of white smoke try to run. Usually if i didn't give it some fuel IMMEDIATELY it would not continue to run. Once started it would idle very smooth though. Smoked (white) quite a bit when cold though. If it had been started at all (even cold and immediately turned back off) then it would fire right back up when i hit the ignition. I was convinced it was an air leak, and the time was pretty much fuel draining back towards the tank. But I pretty much proved to myself that was not the case by replacing hosing with clear hose to watch and other tests. So i moved on to injectors and pump. Reading around in the forums i figured out how to adjust the injector pump timing and figured if it was out it was probably a little retarded given the symptoms. So i loosen everything up and started advancing (counter clock wise when facing vehicle from the front) about a 1mm at a time. Tighten everything back up and try again. Immediately the hard to start symptoms got better. Kept advancing till it ran a little rough and started getting darker smoke then backed back off. It was in the upper 40F temperature range most of today. Several times i let it sit for a couple hours. 10 sec count on the glow plugs and it starts almost immediately, if not on the first crank then on the second. What a difference. It still smokes some, but much less.
  2. Don't think it's cold start procedure: don't touch throttle or hand throttle, give it about 10 sec on the glow plugs (verified they work) then turn over. Unless cold start mechanism in the injector pump is not working properly. If it has started at all I can turn it off immediately and just tap the starter and it will fire right back up whether it has warmed up yet or not. And the longer it sits the longer it takes to start. Usually after about 15 min it takes the full amount of cranking time (10 sec solid cranking). I was expecting to see full fuel in the leak off pipe returning back to fuel filter housing. I may replace all four leak off pipe sections tonight with clear pipe and see what I see. But even after sitting 15 hours the clear pipe from fuel filter to injector pump is still full of fuel, no bubbles. So if it's an air leak I think it is on the injector side of injector pump. ???
  3. I was convinced i had an air leak somewhere in my fuel system, as my 1986 2.5 NA is difficult to start when it's been sitting for a while. If it's been run it will fire right back up, but if you let it sit for 20 minutes or more it takes a fair amount of cranking before it will fire up. Anyway, I had replaced the fuel line from the filter to the injection pump with clear hose. I also replaced the last injector leak off pipe that goes back to the top of the fuel filter housing with clear pipe. I was hoping to see if the fuel was draining from the lines and if so, if i could tell which direction air was coming from. Anyway, two things. It appears the line from the filter to the injector pump remains completely full of fuel when it sits for a while. Also, i noticed no, or very little fuel in the leak off pipe going back to the fuel filter housing. Should the leak off pipe be full of fuel, or should I at least be able to see some fuel traveling thru the leak off pipe.
  4. Maverik, Thanks for the input. That's what I thought looking around at the wiring job and also at the circuit diagram; i.e. there was no original relay. I was found it unsettling that the wire providing main power didn't have any protection on it at all. When I repair I will probably at the very least put a fuse link or something on it. I haven't pulled out the relay yet, but will give it a test. I figure it went bad and shorted the wire as it burned until it burned in two. Since I would like to know what cause the problem. It looks like I may have gotten lucky and only that wire really got affected since it ran by itself for a distance before going back into a bundle/harness. But a full inspection seems in order. A quick glance and all other wiring in the vincity seems ok. All other electrical functions as well. Just to be clear when you say you have relayed all your lights I assume you mean that full power runs directly to the lights via a relay and the only power running thru the switch is used to energize the relay ? In my case someone had just put a relay in line of the power line going to the headlight switch and used an ignition-hot wire to energize the relay. So all they accomplished was to make sure lights couldn't be on unless the ignition was on, but full power still went thru the switch. thanks jeff
  5. Driving my defender (1986 2.5 NA Diesel) last night and smoke pours out of the dash and headlights and dash lights go out. Everything else works, just headlights and dashlights out. Get home, pull the panel off where the hazard switch, rear window defrost switch, and overhead light switch are. There is a relay behind here. It looks like someone wired this up, definitely not factory. The power wire going to relay had melted all the insulation off and burned in two. Possibly the relay had gone bad and shorted it. Apparently this relay serves the purpose of only allowing the headlights and dashlights to be on if the ignition is on. My real question is if this vehicle came with a relay for this purpose or not. It doesn't appear to me like it should based on the wiring diagrams I have. Wondering if someone added it afterwards and if I should just remove it or try to replace it.
  6. No I didn't have loosen the diode pack. Remove the bolt. Remove plastic washer. Put a ring terminal down around the plastic sleeve. Replace plastic washer. Replace bolt. The ring terminal rests on top of the diode pack and is held down by the plastic waster. All accessible just by removing the back cover plate. Wish I had taken a photo when i attached it.
  7. Just to close out this thread. The bolts shown in the picture are indeed isolated from the diode packs and stator wire by a plastic sleeve and plastic washer. I attached a ring terminal around the plastic sleeve and under the plastic washer, which causes it to contact the same plate that the stator wire is soldered to. Works great. I have the 6000 rpm VDO gauge and the dip switch settings of OFF-ON-OFF seem to be about right.
  8. I checked the throttle cable. Linkage appears to be resting against the idle screw. How does the fuel pump "know" it is at idle; i.e. against the idle screw. How does it tell the difference between idle dictated by the throttle cable versus adjusting the idle screw?
  9. Oh, I did test continuity between the plates (diode pack) and the bolt and they are isolated from one another.
  10. Can't see it really in this photo, but there is indeed a wire (3) coming out and soldered to each of the plates under those 3 bolts.
  11. This is my Lucas A115 alternator with the rear cover removed. I assume attaching to any one of the three bolts I have indicated with the white arrows in this photo will work.
  12. I had found and fixed one fuel system leak (asked in another forum thread) and things had gotten better. A new fuel filter seems like an easy thing to try as I don't know how old the one in there is.
  13. That's what i figured on the hand throttle. Not sure if dash lights dim, will have to watch more closely (I assume so), but glow plug light on warning panel lights up and dials fall back to zero. I also hooked up test light and plugs getting current. I pulled each glow plug and direct connected them to a power source and each glows after about 5-7 seconds. Has anyone seen plugs be a problem even if they appear to function? They appear to be a pretty cheap item to replace new. I had no idea how old the original battery in the vehicle was and appeared to not have much stamina. It was also rated at 650 cranking amps. So i replaced with a 950 cca commercial battery, which really turns things over easy. So battery should be good as well.
  14. Looking for some advice on proper cold start for my 86 Defender. Looking thru the forums it looks like proper cold start procedure is Do not touch accelerator !!! Give it glow plugs 10-15 seconds Turn over It's really not that cold out, following behavior has been seen 50-70 F. If I follow the above, usually within 2-3 seconds of turn over it will fire, but will not stay running. Even if i try again and again, it will fire, but never stay running. If vehicle has been running it will fire right up. When cold, if i give it some throttle, or better yet, pull the idle adjustment plug (whatever the right term is) out to the first or second slot, it will then start and stay running. However, it looks like both the throttle cable and this fast idle adjustment plug (just right and above fuse panel) just hook to the same throttle assembly on the fuel pump. So my questions are 1. Using the fast idle adjustment will disable the cold start mechanism in the fuel pump, and therefore shouldn't be touched till after vehicle has started ? 2. Is this a sign that the cold start in my fuel pump is not working, or possibly something else ? thanks jeff
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