Rangy35

Very nice mate.

I envy this couple. https://au.totaltravel.yahoo.com/inspiration/adventure/g/28233708/landrover-around-the-world/ Just pure magic.

Awesome, some people should just not be left around vehicles.

@ hangover Is that a strait bolt on an drive? How did you bypass the electronics on the turbo? I know every one is concerned about remapping the ECU, is it that critical? I am asking this because my forte is not tuning things up everyday. You are not increasing the boost pressure and if it does I can not see it being much, I do see that the VNT will easily supply the full boost from much lower rpm and think the ECU would cope with this.....or am I completely of the mark??

Very funny

Can not see a problem with the mod, the only thing that may be of a small concern if my memory is still serving me correctly is the re programming of the injector grades into the ECU, done this ten or so years ago, it my not like the new numbers but she should still run good.

Could be the transfer box, hub members, half shafts, diffs.......or all of the above.

Is the ECU standard or "chipped"? It sounds electrical, if not the control unit acting up. Inspect the engine harness very careful for chafing, it seems when the chassis is twisted a certain way the wires short somehow. Good luck, these are very tough faults to hunt down.

AMEN TO YOU BROTHER.

As above, the pump is cavitating, and as above between the steering box and reservoir, you need to cool the oil after its used for its job and before it goes into the reservoir. Nice cooler, you also increased the volume of the oil, so there is more to go around and will last longer.

I have one, yes it produces the hex grip, I use it extensively and my work looks fantastic.

I think most tools are made there, you can ask them to put your logo on there and away you go. Cant see why it wont work, if worse comes to worse the gauges may be a concern.

You got the route correct?

Put a VNT on, cant be much difference in price.

The clutch on the alternator does as above, also reduces the dragg it puts on the belt and the engine witch in turn gives longer belt live and lower fuel consumption and emissions......on deacceleration, yes deacceleration, you will not benefit from the latter on your V8. The intellegint alternators are NOT intellegent without the engine control unit, the engine control unit "knows" what type of battery is SUPPOSE to be fitted and different batterys need different charging rates, a AGM battery for example needs to charge at 14,4V to charge propperly and is different from a Calsium battery and different from a normal lead acid battery. I see every day of my life how people try to be imtellegent and fit the wrong battery than recomended to save money, and then things go wrong and cost absurt amounts of money to fix. I have no clue what vehicle you got the alternator from, I dont get the lingo, but I think you are safe.

Ha ha ha the fluffy one. Got a photo of the cyclonic one you fitted? Sometimes I get lost in the different names people give for the same thing.

The Land Rover service schedule recommends the renewal of the filter kit every third oil change.

Don't know what a Mac is, but if you are talking of the MAF sensor you will not cause issues with the placement, don't know if you will gain anything noticeable but the real difference is the actual intake manifold design where things happen and the size of your air box and filter.

I would only adjust the steering box if all tie rod ends are perfect and the droparm ball joint, and checked if the pitman arm is secured propperly to the steering box, then I would check the uni joints on the steering shaft, between the box and steering wheel for play and security.

The chances of the clock spring "unwinding" and spinning the steering wheel like that is totally impossible. The chance that the clock spring is damaged or will fail soon is good, they are locked brand new, must be fitted with steering wheel straight and then the locking tab can be broken off. The thing is because it has to work with the steering turning it only has a certain amount of movement both ways. One tip I would have given if asked before the work was done is to use a bungie cord to lock the steering wheel and not the steering lock as you do need to wiggle the steering to slide the rod onto the splines and the bungie cord gives you that movement but will never let it turn. Hope it makes sense.

You are more than welcome to borrow my modification to make those bearings "servaceble" http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85492# Look at photos in post number 8

Mate...buddy....its a Freelander L-Series........LOL

How is the investigation going?

Many years ago engines were build differently, not as tight as today. If you only have it when cold and first start up it may be worth it to do a engine flush and fresh oil and filter maybe a 10w-40 or 5w-40 quality oil.

Cool, thanx for sharing, I have been looking around for a long time but they are very expensive. This is very good. Will look into it.