Ibex94

that should do it

Remember to work through from longest pipe run to shortest

That's useful thanks @western

Plastic fantastic🤣

Make a luton for more storage.

You g valve serves the same purpose, higher the deceleration the more mass transfer to the front, the g valve reduces the rear brake force to compensate.

One thing to check out is the rear proportioning valve if fitted. My rear brakes failed me on the IVA brake testing which is quite a bit more stringent than the MOT requirements. My donor was a 1988 90 turbo, solid discs at the front drums at the rear. During my build I carried out a complete refurb of the brake system (apart from the proportioning valve which got a little ignored) and upgraded to vents at the front and solid discs at the rear. Calipers were stripped and rebuilt with news seals and stainless pistons, new OE discs were fitted. I then went for a replacement master cylinder and produced a complete set of bespoke set of cupronickel brake lines routed as carefully as possible to keep out the way of getting snagged, all are P clipped to the chassis and rear axle, I also fitted braided hoses. I took the truck for an MOT shake down before IVA and got a pass. At IVA I got both front to lock up but the rears were quite low, hence fail. Hand brake was also not good enough for IVA - I think I reused the shoes and I suspect there was some oil contamination. So while I got a replacement proportioning valve I decided to delete it as the truck has a ~100" wheelbase which should be slightly better than the 90 on brake balance and I wanted to be sure he went through at retest. I decided to get a replacement set of handbrake shoes and replaced them, everything appeared to be bone dry but I couldn't remember whether I replaced them during the build. At retest got a lock up from all 4 corners as well as the handbrake with the rear wheels in the rollers. Then got satisfactory results for the full range of brake force test the inspector runs through and got rated for 3500kg towing. Really please with the brake performance and pedal feel. Still to decide whether to put the proportioning valve back in.

Also look out for @vulcan bomber, he's now got his own gasket set, bearings and main seals, only a matter of time before he's got a kit of o rings.

The manual is in the tech archive just search for Overdrive

How many have a GKN unit sitting sulking on the shelf in the shed unloved?

Took them off or just witnessed the self disassembly?😩

looking good Mike coming along nicely.

thanks Ralph

I spoke to Devon 4x4 yesterday, sales man gave me the impression that the overdrive stock was all they had and it didn't sound as though they were looking to replenish their stock😫 Waiting for a call back.

I'm surprised a lighting earth is affecting the temp sender, but earths and cars are strange things. You will get a good continuity reading with a light piece of cable which when loaded will generate a potential drop. Also a poor or corroded connections will also affect the quality of the earth. The battery earth usually bonded to the chassis and then to the back of the transfer box. Worth a check and a bit of clean up. Then look at the bulkhead earthing stud and potentially clean up the contacts if necessary. From memory the light earth earths run back to there. I added an engine earth from the near side chassis leg to the block beneath the alternator, just to make sure the engine was well earthed.