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Everything posted by Ibex94

  1. The darker bit is where fuel sprayed while bleeding the injector lines😇
  2. Well the Ibex has been sulking in the shed for too long and as a consequence the fuel pump had gummed itself up. He still started but just wanted run away, apparently the pump delivers peak fuel on start up and then the governor kicks in to control the fuel. When stripped they found the internals corroded so that the governor couldn't do its job. Took the injector pump to Hickley's in Bridgwater and got the pump back a week later looking like new. They suggested that I took the rest of the fuel system apart to clean out any crud that had migrated so I stripped everything between the fuel f
  3. You want the torque to be high enough that the preload on the assembly is greater than the force exerted by the pressure. Its a really fine thread so they shouldn't need to be ridiculously tight but it took some force to undo them as there was coke in the annulus between the nozzle and the securing nut and some light corrosion at the end of the threads. They are unlikely to come undone once installed as fixing is pretty positive its more of a fatigue issue imho
  4. Bosch, found supply on ebay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-200-TDI-NEW-BOSCH-INJECTOR-NOZZLES-SET-OF-4-DSLA145P208-0433175017/274456947691?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Part number on mine is DSLA 145 P 208 its etched on the barrel of the injector nozzle.
  5. I think this may be an exception, they were proper friction tight to undo - I think carbon and 30 years didn't help. They are a proper fine thread so I wouldn't expect such a high torque to do them back up. My sphincter twitchometer would be having convulsions😂
  6. Love it, do you have an indicator of imminent failure?🤕
  7. Thanks Mo, but that's the clamp which retains the injector in the head. Unfortunately LR didn't consider the injector to be serviceable so there's no information in the manual, Bosch would like you to take them to a service centre so I've not been able to find any torques figures.
  8. Evening all, I've just had my fuel pump rebuilt and was told it was full of carp so I decided to pull the injectors to check they were clean and clear. Having done so I realise that the nozzles are worn and have bought a spare set. The nozzle retaining nuts take quite a torque to undo but I'm assuming that's a function of the coke that builds up around the nozzle to nut interface and general age. Can anybody tell me how tight I should torque them back up or do I go with 3 white knuckles and a grunt🤪. Thanks Rob
  9. I made a crow foot ring spanner up when I did mine to get them torqued up properly. Buy one of Halfords finest spanners cut it in half and weld an M10 nut to the ring end. Make sure you check length required before cutting.
  10. I've fitted a bilge blower in line with a standard defender heater box. I've retained the resistor pack as well and have a pretty good two speeds. I remover the original fan and made my own duct up which the fan slips into. Will get you a photo later.
  11. I'm fitting forward facing rear defender seats in my Ibex. I'm just trying to get them set up right and was wondering whether anybody out there could take me a couple of dimensions please. Ideally I'd like the dimension from the rear tub floor to the flat in the wheel box which the seat pivot bracket sits on. The other one would be the centres height of the fold down arm on the lower bracket pivot to the centre pivot of the upper seat bracket. Thanks for your help - hope it gives you something different to do in isolation😂 Take Care Rob
  12. Thanks all, yes isolated pump with the solenoid supply. Yes the engine turned off on the key and the turbo was refurbished albeit several years ago. Will persevere with a a little messing about with the throttle and give it a few more starts - wasn't aware that start setting was equivalent to full fuel. Might also try pull the boost pin to see what it looks like. Watch this space🤔
  13. Evening all, Unfortunately project Ibex has been languishing in the barn untouched for a couple of years. Time has come to push it over the line, so having installed the battery I decide to give starting the old girl a go. This is an engine I know the history of as it ended up being rebuilt when I originally bought it to replace my original trucks turbo diesel. I had the engine running a couple of years ago without any real issues and drove the truck round the farm. So why 2 years on having cranked the engine over for 30 seconds with the fuel pump isolated to give the oil a stir does
  14. Hi Dizzy, I bought a TD5 seat box to retro-fit into my 1988 90. I decided it was too much hassle in the end and I can't remember all the detail but you either need to cut out the tunnel mounting section from your old seat box and attach to you new TD5 or you need to get hold of all the tunnel sections and floor panels. I think part oof the issue is the TD5 tunnel is much wider and there are braces down the back of the front face where you need to cut. My old seat box is still cluttering up the garage. For its age its in ok condition, the side flanges are corroded around the bolt h
  15. Seat upgrade. I had fitted my original 90 seats to the Ibex which whilst in reasonable condition were never the most comfortable of things - particularly with the luxurious vinyl finish. So I've been casting my eye around for suitable replacements to match the forward facing XS rear seats I got for the rear. I had been looking at the std XS fronts but then they aren't particularly cheap. I would love some of those very sexy Recaro's they had in the last limited edition defender but they're just mental money. I eventually came to the conclusion that with the smaller battery box the Ibex h
  16. If you can't grind them consider drilling them out, tedious but delivers the result. You may also find you can get a Dremel in.
  17. Visual inspection of injectors is unlikely to reveal any cracks in the body, they are likely to be very fine and significantly affected by the pressure they operate at. The easiest way to look for these type defects would be using die penetrant which will search out any defects and capillary into them. After a period of time you clean die off and spray on a "developer" to soak the die out the crack. Die used to be red so these tell tales are called bleeds. Found a couple of suppliers online if you want to do it yourself. Alternatively look for a Non Destructive Testing company local to yo
  18. Hi I've tried to decouple the steel bits from the Ali where possible. I've used some rubber sheet I've got sculling around about 1mm thick. Your roof repair stuff may work by excluding moisture but I suspect that as you tighten the joint you'll end up with metal to metal contact. If you're just going to exclude moisture then you may find the thick waxoil will do an equivalent job. Rob
  19. Sorry meant to say that there are many similar places where the backlash could be present on the tdci.
  20. If vehicle was a Td5 or earlier then I would suspect excessive wear in the drive train. I'm assuming the snatch you refer to is related to backlash when the clutch engages drive but you haven't taken up all the slack. If this is the case then you could be heading for gearbox rebuild not a cheep experience. I posted a load of advise on the Defender for Ascension Island thread, re checking for backlash. You can also check by riding the clutch to make sure all backlash is taken up before fully engaging the gear. Welcome to Land Rovers and the forum. Rob
  21. Very good, however you forgot to factor in the number of FFS's which got used during the process. Therapy is helping can now smile about it
  22. I suspect you've knocked the diff lock linkage forwards. The bottom of the linkage floats so you should be able to realign with the transfer box lever when you've bolted it down.
  23. Yippee! DVLA have now provided me with a VIN for the Ibex. They wouldn't want to make it easy - reminds me of Arthur Dents experience with planning permission for bypasses. Took me three phone calls to find someone who could advise who I should contact. Then when following up my letter was advised I should have sent it registered. Rang to see if they got the letter, which after 5 mins on hold was advised they couldn't see anything on the system and not to try again until their 4 week guarantee for response expired. (Wish I could find emoticons on the ipad). Needless to say they used all
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