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Ibex94

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Everything posted by Ibex94

  1. Remember to work through from longest pipe run to shortest
  2. You g valve serves the same purpose, higher the deceleration the more mass transfer to the front, the g valve reduces the rear brake force to compensate.
  3. One thing to check out is the rear proportioning valve if fitted. My rear brakes failed me on the IVA brake testing which is quite a bit more stringent than the MOT requirements. My donor was a 1988 90 turbo, solid discs at the front drums at the rear. During my build I carried out a complete refurb of the brake system (apart from the proportioning valve which got a little ignored) and upgraded to vents at the front and solid discs at the rear. Calipers were stripped and rebuilt with news seals and stainless pistons, new OE discs were fitted. I then went for a replacement master cylinder and produced a complete set of bespoke set of cupronickel brake lines routed as carefully as possible to keep out the way of getting snagged, all are P clipped to the chassis and rear axle, I also fitted braided hoses. I took the truck for an MOT shake down before IVA and got a pass. At IVA I got both front to lock up but the rears were quite low, hence fail. Hand brake was also not good enough for IVA - I think I reused the shoes and I suspect there was some oil contamination. So while I got a replacement proportioning valve I decided to delete it as the truck has a ~100" wheelbase which should be slightly better than the 90 on brake balance and I wanted to be sure he went through at retest. I decided to get a replacement set of handbrake shoes and replaced them, everything appeared to be bone dry but I couldn't remember whether I replaced them during the build. At retest got a lock up from all 4 corners as well as the handbrake with the rear wheels in the rollers. Then got satisfactory results for the full range of brake force test the inspector runs through and got rated for 3500kg towing. Really please with the brake performance and pedal feel. Still to decide whether to put the proportioning valve back in.
  4. Also look out for @vulcan bomber, he's now got his own gasket set, bearings and main seals, only a matter of time before he's got a kit of o rings.
  5. The manual is in the tech archive just search for Overdrive
  6. How many have a GKN unit sitting sulking on the shelf in the shed unloved?
  7. Took them off or just witnessed the self disassembly?😩
  8. I spoke to Devon 4x4 yesterday, sales man gave me the impression that the overdrive stock was all they had and it didn't sound as though they were looking to replenish their stock😫 Waiting for a call back.
  9. I'm surprised a lighting earth is affecting the temp sender, but earths and cars are strange things. You will get a good continuity reading with a light piece of cable which when loaded will generate a potential drop. Also a poor or corroded connections will also affect the quality of the earth. The battery earth usually bonded to the chassis and then to the back of the transfer box. Worth a check and a bit of clean up. Then look at the bulkhead earthing stud and potentially clean up the contacts if necessary. From memory the light earth earths run back to there. I added an engine earth from the near side chassis leg to the block beneath the alternator, just to make sure the engine was well earthed.
  10. @reb78 have you pulled the transfer box gear and shaft out for an inspection?
  11. Bit not a eureka moment when I got to the bench tonight.
  12. Ok result final circlip removed and the box is now nearly completely stripped. Used a pair of split pins to get the circlip out helped with a scriber, split pin slips over the end of the circlip and you can then work one around the shaft while leaving the second at the start end. Worked well first try. So with the box stripped it appears to be in remarkably good condition. I didn't find any swarfe on the keeper magnet in the sump in the casing. It wasn't until I pulled out the HP filter that I found any debris which I assume aluminium by its look and the fact it got past the magnet. Cone friction material is in good condition as is the mating surface. Spray clutch feels as though it works smoothly and locks as it should. I haven't got the solenoid off yet but that I can hear that rattle as I tilt the casing side to side I assume that a possible problem as from what I've seen on You tube the solenoid is spring biased. So wrong oil, worn O rings and a dodgy solenoid appear to be the overdrive main issues which should be easy enough to sort. The main problem I think is finding a replacement gear for the transfer box as the spline are reasonably worn.
  13. Thanks @TSD I'll look that up for the O rings. When you've had yours apart have you pulled the transfer box shafts / gear out? did you find any wear on the splines?
  14. I found a ready made alternative to bent welding rods - the eyes of split pins. Use a pair starting from one end, leave one behind close to the end then work the other one round helped with a screw driver or scriber. Came out a treat - no bad language😇
  15. Thanks @reb78 Yep I'd followed that bit, it's still an awkward little sod. I've even got some proper circlip pliers which get me started but there's not enough space to then get the back out the groove. Give it a go with a few more screwdrivers tonight.
  16. Thanks Mike, I've seen a few of TSDs posts on the subject.
  17. Thanks @westernI'm watching that thread as well. Thanks for the heads up on the manual - I'm off to find that now!
  18. That's not helpful😫 @reb78 was looking for a useful hint🤔
  19. Well, the Ibex has been on the road for all of 6 weeks (and covered 1500 miles) and the first opportunity for an upgrade has presented itself! Cue exasperated sigh from SWMBO. I hadn't been sure how the truck would perform on the road in todays condition as it was nearly 20 years since I'd driven him and everything has doubled in power and halved the sprint to 60. I've been really pleased he's not going to win the traffic light Grand Prix but he makes pretty good progress and with a load of sound control mat he's not too loud at 60 however it would be good to be able to cut the revs in cruise so I have been looking for an overdrive when I remember. Anyway the planets aligned last week and I picked up a GKN / Laycock over drive - I think it cost me more in diesel to collect it than buy it. Picked it up last night, apparently it stopped engaging for the previous owner and she didn't want to spend any money investigating and fixing it so pulled it out - I appear to have everything apart from the matching gear nob. Started clean up and strip down this evening. It was leaking some manky heavy oil which smells and feels like EP90 - wtf? really grotty so wondered what I was going to find inside. So far it looks reasonably ok. Piston 'o' rings look square, speed sensor looks ok, the clutch material appears to be intact. On the down side the fine splines which the transfer box gear runs on are well work although the splines to the R380 output shaft appear ok. So far got as far as removing the oil pump cam but the circlip behind it has stumped me tonight. I'll get seals and gaskets ordered up tomorrow and see what I can do about a replacement gear.
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