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Ibex94
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Posts posted by Ibex94
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On 9/1/2023 at 11:04 PM, Defender said:
Ok thanks I will try bleeding all the calipers tomorrow.
I don't suppose you have any pointers on how to adjust the pedal pushrod?Remember to work through from longest pipe run to shortest
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That's useful thanks @western
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22 hours ago, landroversforever said:
You’re like @Stellaghost’s fibreglass cousin!
Plastic fantastic🤣
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Make a luton for more storage.
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6 hours ago, tuko said:
Another very infomative post, thank you.
As for the proportioning valve, I honestly have no idea, but I do know that I have a g valve, other than that I have to get under the Defender to see whats there. I can think, it being a 1992 xmod, there must be a proportioning valve. AS for the hand brake, it holds the Defender in one spot. 😉You g valve serves the same purpose, higher the deceleration the more mass transfer to the front, the g valve reduces the rear brake force to compensate.
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One thing to check out is the rear proportioning valve if fitted. My rear brakes failed me on the IVA brake testing which is quite a bit more stringent than the MOT requirements.
My donor was a 1988 90 turbo, solid discs at the front drums at the rear. During my build I carried out a complete refurb of the brake system (apart from the proportioning valve which got a little ignored) and upgraded to vents at the front and solid discs at the rear. Calipers were stripped and rebuilt with news seals and stainless pistons, new OE discs were fitted. I then went for a replacement master cylinder and produced a complete set of bespoke set of cupronickel brake lines routed as carefully as possible to keep out the way of getting snagged, all are P clipped to the chassis and rear axle, I also fitted braided hoses.
I took the truck for an MOT shake down before IVA and got a pass. At IVA I got both front to lock up but the rears were quite low, hence fail. Hand brake was also not good enough for IVA - I think I reused the shoes and I suspect there was some oil contamination.
So while I got a replacement proportioning valve I decided to delete it as the truck has a ~100" wheelbase which should be slightly better than the 90 on brake balance and I wanted to be sure he went through at retest. I decided to get a replacement set of handbrake shoes and replaced them, everything appeared to be bone dry but I couldn't remember whether I replaced them during the build. At retest got a lock up from all 4 corners as well as the handbrake with the rear wheels in the rollers. Then got satisfactory results for the full range of brake force test the inspector runs through and got rated for 3500kg towing.
Really please with the brake performance and pedal feel. Still to decide whether to put the proportioning valve back in.
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4 hours ago, Little mule said:
Thank you for the information on this site . It’s always nice to have a place where you might be able to get some parts.
I really appreciate the scale and scope and everyone’s advise on everything I have learned and read on this forum
thank you everyone
Tony
Also look out for @vulcan bomber, he's now got his own gasket set, bearings and main seals, only a matter of time before he's got a kit of o rings.
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3 hours ago, Oakmaster said:
I'll modify an oak peg to make a bung.
I had severe memory loss after Sepsis during lockdown, resulting a a new heart valve - so I cant remember which has the faulty sensor
But - I previously had issues that were caused by the flimsy wiring loom that went up the gear stick, so I'm wondering whether to look at those too?
Triggered by your comment about there being nothing in them to fail - I'm wondering whether we are heading in the wrong direction
Has anyone got a wiring diagram?
Maybe a simple jig could be made to test the sensors - Somebody could chuck-up a (Blunt) Sawbalde in a lathe or mill or drill and introduce a sensor (carefully) to see if pulses are generated?
I'll get my coat!
The manual is in the tech archive just search for Overdrive
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16 minutes ago, vulcan bomber said:
I hope the mods are ok with this but I can now sell people a set of gaskets for the GKN unit. £15 a set including postage and with a couple of extra gaskets for the inspection cover to allow you to remove the cover for servicing. And significantlu cheaper than Devon who sell 1 gasket for £12!!
How many people here are actually running a GKN?
How many have a GKN unit sitting sulking on the shelf in the shed unloved?
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1 hour ago, western said:
If the battery is secure, you can do away with those bowls, I took them off my 110 ages ago.
Took them off or just witnessed the self disassembly?😩
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looking good Mike coming along nicely.
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10 hours ago, western said:
Quite likely as GKN don't make that OD anymore & Devon 4x4 bought all the spares stock & doubt they will have parts made when stock is exhausted, Vulcan Bomber on here has diagrams for all the gaskets.
thanks Ralph
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4 hours ago, western said:
The gear knob lower part should be esdy enough to get made is a alloy machined part, the lid with switch & led should be available from Devon 4x4. Or just find a on/off switch to fit the dash or on gearlever.
I spoke to Devon 4x4 yesterday, sales man gave me the impression that the overdrive stock was all they had and it didn't sound as though they were looking to replenish their stock😫 Waiting for a call back.
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I'm surprised a lighting earth is affecting the temp sender, but earths and cars are strange things.
You will get a good continuity reading with a light piece of cable which when loaded will generate a potential drop. Also a poor or corroded connections will also affect the quality of the earth. The battery earth usually bonded to the chassis and then to the back of the transfer box. Worth a check and a bit of clean up. Then look at the bulkhead earthing stud and potentially clean up the contacts if necessary. From memory the light earth earths run back to there.
I added an engine earth from the near side chassis leg to the block beneath the alternator, just to make sure the engine was well earthed.
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@reb78 have you pulled the transfer box gear and shaft out for an inspection?
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1 hour ago, reb78 said:
Excellent. I never would have thought of that!
Bit not a eureka moment when I got to the bench tonight.
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Ok result final circlip removed and the box is now nearly completely stripped. Used a pair of split pins to get the circlip out helped with a scriber, split pin slips over the end of the circlip and you can then work one around the shaft while leaving the second at the start end. Worked well first try.
So with the box stripped it appears to be in remarkably good condition. I didn't find any swarfe on the keeper magnet in the sump in the casing. It wasn't until I pulled out the HP filter that I found any debris which I assume aluminium by its look and the fact it got past the magnet. Cone friction material is in good condition as is the mating surface. Spray clutch feels as though it works smoothly and locks as it should. I haven't got the solenoid off yet but that I can hear that rattle as I tilt the casing side to side I assume that a possible problem as from what I've seen on You tube the solenoid is spring biased.
So wrong oil, worn O rings and a dodgy solenoid appear to be the overdrive main issues which should be easy enough to sort. The main problem I think is finding a replacement gear for the transfer box as the spline are reasonably worn.
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Thanks @TSD I'll look that up for the O rings.
When you've had yours apart have you pulled the transfer box shafts / gear out? did you find any wear on the splines?
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9 hours ago, reb78 said:
Its just a case of fiddling and levering gently. Move the pump so you have as much room as possible where you are levering. Make a couple of little levers like I did (old arc rod ends worked well for me - bend, trim and file them). It will flick off many times.... make sure noone is in earshot of the swearing.
I found a ready made alternative to bent welding rods - the eyes of split pins. Use a pair starting from one end, leave one behind close to the end then work the other one round helped with a screw driver or scriber. Came out a treat - no bad language😇
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8 hours ago, reb78 said:
Sorry. I thought you had it out and was sharing your frustration. My tip is above in the middle of my posts. Read the bit from 'Now even sneakier...' you need a small hooked tool to get underneath one end of the circlip to hook it out of the groove. Then a screwdriver or second hooked tool to hold it out as you work your way round easing it gradually out of the groove. Circlip pliers are useless in there as it has no tabs for them.
Thanks @reb78 Yep I'd followed that bit, it's still an awkward little sod. I've even got some proper circlip pliers which get me started but there's not enough space to then get the back out the groove. Give it a go with a few more screwdrivers tonight.
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15 minutes ago, miketomcat said:
Both @TSD and @FridgeFreezer run overdrives. I'm fairly sure Dave is on his second and had stripped one when it failed though I'm not sure what make any of theirs are.
Mike
Thanks Mike, I've seen a few of TSDs posts on the subject.
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1 hour ago, western said:
There is a gkn strip down thread by reb78 in the Defender forum that will help you strip yours apart.
They use ATF only, don't use anything thicker.
Also in out tech archive index is a link to the owners handbook & fitting instructions,
Thanks @westernI'm watching that thread as well. Thanks for the heads up on the manual - I'm off to find that now!
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24 minutes ago, reb78 said:
Certainly is!! Just when you think you have it, it slips back in the groove!
That's not helpful😫 @reb78 was looking for a useful hint🤔
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Well, the Ibex has been on the road for all of 6 weeks (and covered 1500 miles) and the first opportunity for an upgrade has presented itself! Cue exasperated sigh from SWMBO.
I hadn't been sure how the truck would perform on the road in todays condition as it was nearly 20 years since I'd driven him and everything has doubled in power and halved the sprint to 60. I've been really pleased he's not going to win the traffic light Grand Prix but he makes pretty good progress and with a load of sound control mat he's not too loud at 60 however it would be good to be able to cut the revs in cruise so I have been looking for an overdrive when I remember. Anyway the planets aligned last week and I picked up a GKN / Laycock over drive - I think it cost me more in diesel to collect it than buy it. Picked it up last night, apparently it stopped engaging for the previous owner and she didn't want to spend any money investigating and fixing it so pulled it out - I appear to have everything apart from the matching gear nob.
Started clean up and strip down this evening. It was leaking some manky heavy oil which smells and feels like EP90 - wtf? really grotty so wondered what I was going to find inside.
So far it looks reasonably ok. Piston 'o' rings look square, speed sensor looks ok, the clutch material appears to be intact.
On the down side the fine splines which the transfer box gear runs on are well work although the splines to the R380 output shaft appear ok.
So far got as far as removing the oil pump cam but the circlip behind it has stumped me tonight.
I'll get seals and gaskets ordered up tomorrow and see what I can do about a replacement gear.
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Brake pedal no feeling and goes right down!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
that should do it