Ibex94

Doesn't sound right. Usual test for the servo is to see if the brake pedal sinks under your foot when you start up. Press brake a couple of times before starting then press firmly when you start pedal should depress quite quickly if all is well.

Look up vehicle wiring products for the crimp terminals or Simtekuk have a good selection of them

Friction plate wear is very dependent on how much you slip the clutch, road use and smooth gear changes will maximise this, towing heavy loads may reduce this. Never changed plate on mine in C80,000miles, slave cylinder did go once though.

Your problem does sound more clutch related here. If it's dragging not fully disengaging then you will get real crunch as the reverse lay gear is pushed into mesh with the second motion shaft which will be rotating, you will get less noise from the synchro gears unless you're brutal, and matching road speed to engine revs will let you overcome the problem if you concentrate in the short term, eventually starting off will kill it.

If you didn't use genuine uj's or good quality ones then they can give up very quickly. I got short changed by a garage a long time ago. If you take rear prop off and go for a run make sure the hand brake drum screws are tight, it's surprising how far they go.....and the mrs was driving.....oops just about healed now.

I fitted these to the ibex the td5 wiring diagrams cover them, not use in anger yet but they definitely work. From memory you need to run an additional 4 cores to each light unit. Best to take off vehicle yourself in order to get the connectors and boots. Not seen the type of connector elsewhere when sourcing bits for the truck. Rob

If you want to go stainless then M10 grade A2-70 will suffice with plain washers and nyloc nuts. If you're bolting through the Ali use form g washers on the back.

Unless I'm mixing up a later seat box Td5 on perhaps, the joint between the seat box and tunnel section is much wider on the later seat box. Tunnel is fibreglass from memory. I bought a later seat box when I started rebuilding my truck and I can't remember what the issue with using it was, however I do remember deciding it was too much hassle to try and use the late one on an early vehicle, even looked at changing the tunnel interface, which from memory would suggest it was a gearbox location issue, but it's a long time ago.

Was just going to add that.

Only in fourth? Mine was most most noticeable when taking up drive in first. The coupling to transfer box eventually failed, so suggest you remove the inspection cover on rear of transfer box and see how much play between the shaft and the transfer box primary gear. When I stripped the original LT77 it was completely worn out, there was no land left on the crown of the gear teeth, they were actually sharp and all the synchro cones were also completely worn out. That box was changed over 10 years ago after about 150k miles on it. Don't forget everything in the drive train that could be also be very tired in a 25 year old truck. Good luck. Rob

Above is correct, but differences go a little further. There is a tunnel section that bolts to the bulkhead which is also different as are both floor panels. Rob

I would look carefully at the gearbox output to transfer box input spline coupling, renowned for fretting and wearing themselves away. It's likely that you would feel a load of backlash when taking up drive but would suggest you remove rear cover on transfer box for a look see, removing cover exposes end of coupling and you can see how much free movement there is between the two parts. Just as likely to perform open wallet surgery as the engine or chassis. As previous post stop start really hammers drive train, my original truck came off the airport loads of aggressive stop start I'm sure and that coupling failed on me. Rob

As Ralph I just refer as and when, if I want it in the workshop I just print the relevant bits. My original manual spends most its time on the shelf.

If your loom is as it left the factory then: Black is an earth white is a live feed unfused from the ignition switch, could be for the coil or a fuel pump. Vulcans right temp sender green with blue trace. Rob

Sorry guys, I would disagree: I've never seen uj's on prop shafts misaligned as suggested by a couple of splines. As a uj rotates, and transfers the drive through an angle, the output shaft accelerates and decelerates in relation to the input as a function of the yoke transferring the drive. I recall they should therefore be aligned in order to cancel the pulsing effect out when the drive leaves the output flange, sorry can't remember for definite whether its in phase or 90o out, think it should be in phase ie yokes on the centre shaft aligned. Prop shafts need to be balance, its amazing how they set up road speed related vibration if not. If yours has been split and there's no alignment marks to return it to its original configuration then you're likely to feel it when you run it up the road. I would find a local prop shaft specialist and get them to assemble it and then check the balance. If you don't have one can recommend Chards in Bristol http://www.prop-shaft.com/#/about-us/4562250494 they've modified a couple of props for me in the past. Regards Rob

Radiator and Intercooler. As the front of the Ibex is much shorter than the Defender the radiator needs to be sited slightly differently. Foers suggest that you move the radiator so that the outlet exits to the offside of the steering box. Makes things a little tight but is quite possible. Above photos give an indication of how tight this makes space at the front. It does also mean that there is loads of space on the near side.. just crying out to be filled with a bigger intercooler. I did a bit of research and got Allards to make me bespoke intercooler when they refurbished my Turbo. Intercooler has about twice the cooling capacity of the original and is achieved by the extra width and by also using a deeper core section. In order to mount it I decided to modify the original frame by extending the top and bottom rails and by inserting an additional upright between the radiator and the intercooler - primarily to mount the intercooler to. Here you can see the frame fresh from the powder coaters. Also needed to fabricate brackets to sit the radiator frame on (LH pic). As it sits in front of the steering box it also sits a little higher so the upper brackets also had to be extended. Not shown particularly clearly here, but I also incorporated brackets on the radiator frame for a Tripac electric fan which I obtained from Merlin Motorsport. With the radiator offset as it is didn't fancy trying to make a cowl up to continue using the original mounted off the water pump. Here's a few pics of the finished item ready for installation. Final pic showing installed view from above - didn't get a pic from behind before engine went in.

Hi, I've bought manuals on eBay a couple of times. Had a quick look and found this for £2.99 says it covers the 300Tdi. From the section numbering I suspect it's come from Land Rover at some point looks very similar to my genuine workshop manual. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-300Tdi-Workshop-Manual-/321308057308?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item4acf73dedc Hope this helps. Rob

Electrickery I decided to build the vehicle around a 300tdi loom as the old loom was getting a little tired (he spent a spell on Bristol Airport as an airside security vehicle and therefore had a number of additions (bodges) to the loom for various lights and radios) I also preferred the Econoseal connectors as it is easier to replace sections of wiring and the new lights would all require similar plugs plus they're waterproof. I also decided to incorporate a TD5 instrument unit to get the electronic speedo which would eliminate std swingometer speedo problems and hopefully allow me to recalibrate it for the larger tyres he will inevitably run. Got the bulkhead loom with a bulkhead I'd bought when planning to rebuild the Land Rover. Some damage to each side of the loom running to the headlights but not too much of a problem as the Ibex is quite a bit shorter at the front. I got hold of a TD5 bulkhead loom and a 300Tdi rear loom front CWS down near Glastonbury. The TD5 loom came attached to the dash board I also stripped out to use in the Ibex and came complete with the headlight adjusters. Its surprising how useful a scrap loom is for spare connectors and wiring, certainly well worth the money I paid for the looms. Wibbly Wobbly Speedo thread is a really good source of information but you also need copies of the wiring diagrams so you can mark up what you're doing as you go along. My first job was to carefully unpick both the bulkheads looms removing all the loom wrapping tape resecuring the cable form with cable ties so I didn't loose the shape of the loom too much in particular the position of key features. I started off using a soldering iron and heat shrink to join the looms together as I hadn't found where I could get replacement crimps from - problem now solved - Simtek will supply all the econoseal connector crimps and grommets and vehicle wiring products the crimp used in the headers. Would recommend buying crimping tool for un-insulated crimps its a far quicker process. I removed all the instrument wiring and all the wiring associated with the central dash board switches with tails as long as I could get them from the TD5. I then attached these section of loom to the 300Tdi loom with cable ties in order to get the sections in the right place before grafting the replacement sections in one core at a time removing the redundant 300Tdi sections as I went. I then rewrapped the loom in self amalgamating tape and then covered most of it with split convoluted trunking for protection. The body was drilled and tapped or had riv-nuts inserted so that the loom could be secured. Had to do this all the way down the offside chassis leg to get the loom to the rear of the vehicle. I used M6 as its a good fit with the P clips I've used to hold the loom in place. I'll post some more pics of the loom attached to the body tomorrow. Rob

I wouldn't buy an expensive oil to start with as you want things to bed in and you'll probably want to change it between 500 and 1000 miles just to get rid of all the fines that rebuilding the engine may leave in galleries, as Ralph says fit a good filter you don't want the dross going round again. Then get on and drive it, labouring the engine is worse than revving but as Ralph says not to high. When you've got oil in the sump suggest you prime the turbo before firing up, it takes a surprising time to get oil back up there and its easy to damage the bearings when the engine catches if there's no oil present. Pull the solenoid lead off the pump and remove the drain connection from the bottom of the turbo. Cut beer can in half and push underneath to catch what you pump through. Good luck. Rob

Find a local breakers you can take parts off and go on a mission. I've used CWS in Glastonbury who are convenient for me in the south west and pretty good when they understand what you're doing. Be prepared to remove dash board when after a bulkhead loom, don't forget to label the ends so you know where they go a bit quicker than digging through the drawings. Be prepared to take a loom with some damage to repair as some careless sod has probably bent the front against the scenery for it to be in the scrapper. It's not difficult to repair them. Any help or advice you want get in touch. Rob

I had to put heat on mine with an acetylene torch to free them up, I think they start life as a tight / transition fit. Rob

If you need replacement defender loom I've a reasonably good one here.

Hi Scott, Installing a TD5 loom isn't worth the effort IMHO while still running a 200 Tdi you will spend ages working out what stuff you don't need. The loom compared to the 200's is at least twice the size and will make it painful to fault find in the future. If you need to change loom then suggest you look at the loom from a 300 as it's much simpler to adapt has better fuse box (blade type) better construction (headers and connectors) and good circuit diagrams than the 200's and is reasonably easy to get replacement terminals for all the connectors. If you want to use the TD5 instruments then it's not too difficult to incorporate into your existing bulkhead loom. However I think I would only do this if I needed to (my original loom had been well butchered over time by previous owners and the 200 style fuse box became rather temperamental) if its only a "nice to do" then I'd think twice about even sticking the 300 in. I've modified and fitted a 300 loom into my Ibex which has a 200tdi installed and also dismantled a Td5 bulkhead loom to strip out the instrument loom to graft in to get the electronic instruments. Hope this helps. Rob

Diff building Rear diff components ready for building Diff fully assembled Front Diff 4 pin diff unit ready for installation Crown wheel assembled to diff and installed in casing to set up the backlash between the crown wheel and pinion. Clock gauge was used just don't have pic. Gear faces blued to check contact area To be continued... Rob

Hi Mike, Just bear in mind Land Rovers have an "Imperial" based chassis length, John went metric with the Ibex. I learnt this to minor expense and significant frustration when I bought, refurbished and had rebalanced a stock Disco rear shaft only to find it wouldn't fit by some 40mm - Disco wheelbase - 100" = 2541mm - Ibex 250 = 2500mm Still it only cost £60 to get the prop modified - If you want details let me know I would recommend them if you don't have a local specialist. Rob PS good to see you making progress - like what you've done with the rear body.