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About newclear

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  1. Well at least thats now the Alternator fixed, ignition light goes out instantly, took the old one to be tested, was barely outputting 10v, tester suspected windings. Not bad for the original 1994 Alternator though . Just need to get something to eat and have a test of the brake light/fuse issue, but I fear it may be too dark by the time I finish . Regards, Matt.
  2. At first I didn't, but have done since, problem still remains. Just to be sure I got the right connection, is the one to the rear of the Gear/Transfer Box area? Anyone have a pic of the reversing switch? Have a feeling I may have removed the wrong one now And I can't say with certainty that the switch hasn't got wet, quite a while back did go through a ford where the water was on top of the bonnet, wasn't sat in the water though, but agian would only be guessing if it did or didn't get wet. Kind Regards, Matt
  3. Hi all, Typically, this issue started as soon as the weather turned, been using the truck all year with no issues, as soon as I go to use it "in anger", the issue began. Also no idea what the 3rd item this fuse seems to cover, the symbol on the fuse box cover looks like an Engine shape covered by a Lightning bolt. First noticed the problem a few weeks ago when the Brake lights didn't come on (quite a large issue with light fading as early as it does at the moment) while reversing onto my drive. Only driven it around locally since to attempt to test each "fix". So far I have: - Checked the
  4. It's always far far to the back of the drive, usually either an MG TF or an Audi A4 sat between it and the drive Exit. Last truck was stolen while I was at a friends party, so it was "just" parked on the road . Also park it next to a Toyota Supra of my brothers, hopefully a nicer target (hope my Bro never reads this haha). Cheers Matt
  5. Hi Ralph, Thanks for that, my last truck was stolen by opportunist thieves as there isn't much you can do against the crane driver types . Guess I'll go help my Dad fit it then Cheers Matt
  6. Hi all, My Dad has been told by a friend of his Boss's that well, to cut it short "the only real way to stop a Defender from being nicked is to fit a fuel cut off". My Truck already has a battery cut off on both leads (positive and negative) and whenever it's parked the steering wheel has a huge chain locked onto it, I personally think this is enough, my Dad has other idea's (he partly owns the truck so he does have "some" say). I did however recall seeing some sort of post or thread, that I can no longer find, that suggested running a "modern" 300tdi out of fuel is a good way to destroy th
  7. Thanks Chris, this I already know, I checked with the Insurance company and the model I have they don't have listed so I sent them all the details and they havent so far contacted me back, doubt I'll get anything but then I am not installing the alarm to get an insurance discount (at 25 the premium is quite reasonable anyway), I'm installing the alarm to make a noise if anyone opens the doors or breaks a window, after having my last Truck stolen in broad daylight. The Local car electronics places either didn't have the alarm I wanted, or were going to charge from £150 to install, on top of the
  8. Ok, Found a wiring Diagram that actually matched my truck So I answered my own question above. I am now however looking for the connections at the rear of the Ignition Barrel. When I got the truck there was a Immobiliser fitted and I think that is interfering with the Alarm Immob. All the wires except the wires from the Truck are black, so it's harder for theives to bypass I assume, but I have no idea where the plugs "should" go on the back of the Barrel, at the moment they are all Black with yellow insulated connectors, I would like to remove the old Immob and get it back to "standard" t
  9. Hi All, Since my last 90 was stolen, I have decided to buy an Alarm for it, as we all know, a 'skillfully' applied knock to the doors or a spoon can open most . The only real "problem" I have is how to fit the Immobiliser, it's a 3 point Immobiliser and those points are Ignition, Starter and Fuel Pump. I know the Fuel Pump won't go to an electric Fuel Pump as there is none, seems the usual choice for this is the Fuel Shut off (On Diesels). The two I'm unsure of are Ignition and Starter. (All colours Below are from the Ignition Barrel/Switch) White/Red -> Starter Solenoid, So I'd conne
  10. Quick Update, Turns out it was just siezed up, quick spray of WD40 and all is well, bit of interior trim was also jamming the internal button from moving so that didn't help. Thanks for the tips guys, all noted down in my big Land Rover notebook .... ...Well, it's more like 2 Notebooks but hell who's counting Matt
  11. I painted my Mazda Calipers with Hammerite Smooth (green, brush painted), let it dry, went for a blast around the local area (all under the speed limit, just a lot of braking from speed, while checking there was nothing behind) and by the time I got back, paint was rock hard and is still on there after a year, but dull after all the heat up's and cool down's, plus there is quite a layer of Brake Dust on them at the moment, other than that the Paint is fine, even the layer or two I put on the edge of the Disc is still fine. Quick wash and they would be as good as when I did them . Only painted
  12. Ok no probs, cleared that up (for me) Just a case of getting used to each search system, what comes from using 3 forums, each with different software . Cheers Matt
  13. Just as a note, has this behaviour been changed? Noticed just today that I could search for 3 letter words... "Washer jet" worked fine, well, it searched yet the information I got back was a bit... "much" Used the Google "trick" and found what I wanted Cheers Matt
  14. Hi All, After getting my new (replacement) truck home I went to lock the drivers door on the second night. I put the key in the lock and it turned fine, but it won't actuate the lock, no matter how hard I twist the key there is no locking 'click'. The key itself also 'waggles' in a strange way, I think the barrel may have collapsed, it waggles side to side from the vertical position if that makes sense . Few questions, - Is this fixable? - If 'I' can't fix it myself, will Land Rover give (sell) me a lock that matches my key if I give some sort of key/lock code? - If they won't or can't is
  15. Feel for you, recently had mine stolen too . Will keep my eye out around here, quite a distance away but never know . 300tdi the new "in" thing with Thieves? Lock em up tight folkes. Cheers Matt
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