Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

FFR

Settled In
  • Content count

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About FFR

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Evatt, Australian Capital Territory
  1. Hi, Do you guys know which LR flexible brake hose fits the disc-braked Sankey trailer ? It was made in 1995. Thanks, Carlos
  2. Hi all, I'm in the process of registering my 1989 FFR in Australia. It never had seat belts in the back (UK and Spanish registration before importing it here), but here they are compulsory. Long history made short: I ordered MXC5497 seat belts this morning, but I do not know exactly which brackets should I use with them. There are four benches in total, three feet wide each one (approximately). Lots of different combinations and references found in Microcat. Any help is greatly appreciated. Carlos
  3. Hi, I recently (2009, time flies) changed from canvas and tail gate to hardtop and safari door. I have been running without bottom seal since. In the meantime, I have been buying what I though was the right set of parts to install a seal... with no success, because I can not figure out how to join these bits togeter. I have this: this: and this: and this is the car ! Any hint and/or proper part numbers is greatly appreciated. Carlos
  4. Hi, Thanks for your reply. I found that there are two types, a short and a long support. The right photo is very useful, because it shows a "long" support installed in a "low" position, so it has a new set of holes. To summary... if the support is installed very high (because it is a long one) then the top bolts are hold by the aluminium skin. But if the support is installed in its lowest setting (because it is a short one, or, being a long one, it has a new set of holes on it) then the top bolts are hold by the aluminium skin AND the galvanized gutter, in a sturdier point. This is an example of the concept: the lower position is better than the higher. I think that I'll do what someone did in your right photo, drill a couple of holes in my long support to mount it low.
  5. Hi, Some time ago I bought a couple of antenna supports, and I was getting ready to drill the body... until I noticed that they are sitting a bit higher than the ones I seeing online. Do I have the wrong mounts ? What is the "standard" distance between top and bottom bolts (I'm thinking about cutting my supports and drill new bottom holes). Please take a look at the photos. Sorry for the vomiting quality of the shots... Many thanks in advance, Carlos
  6. Done. I used a 0.5 mm stainless steel plate with some cuts on it (like a homebrew saw) but the idea of a sharp paint scrapper helped with a hammer is also valid, but the alu skin might be dented from the underside if this is not done carefully. Frame can be removed from the skin (it is a bit tricky) and restoring the glue is going to be tricky too, as the frame has to be slided into its final place, so any glue/gap filler will be oddily spreaded over the alu surface.
  7. Hi Western, No, the plastic bits (old ones) were designed for square holes, and these ones (as seen in the photos) are round-type. I will take a look at the link you have posted. Thank you, Carlos
  8. Hi, Some time ago I adquired the rear-left quarter mast mount (wolf), but I think that it is a bit flimsy to hold a mast when the car is on the move. Recently I saw a photo of a wolf scale model (flickr) where the mast was sitting over a bumperett, and there was a top bracket attached to the top end of the roof, just above the circular cable entry thing. It looked sturdy. I'm looking for part numbers, drawings, photos... or any other info you might have to buy or replicate the parts. Many thanks in advance, Carlos
  9. Hi, I removed all the rivets, as well as the spare wheel mount. Found some galvanic corrosion in the aluminium, as the spare wheel plate is hold with steel fasteners and they touch the alu skin. Need to fix that. Unfortunately, I got stuck with the glue. I was using the sharp paint scraper approach, but it gets jammed with the glue. Then I tried to help with the heat gun, it helps a bit... but the alu can be easily distorted. So I will make a tool, a thin stainless steel blade with a sharp hook in one end to remove the glue, chunk by chunk. As mentioned before, a normal blade/scraper gets jammed between the frame and the skin. A different tool is needed to actually remove the glue from the equation. Photos will follow soon. Carlos
  10. Hi, Recently I switched from the standard grill surround to the fibreglass surround (aircon type). Sadly, the surround came with no obvious way to fit screws on it, and I have no idea of what kind of plastic thingie goes there. Any help greatly appreciated, Carlos
  11. Hi all, I would like to know if the steel frame can be separated from the aluminium skin, as the glue that hold them together is gone and the frame is getting some rust I want to stop. There are some rivets to remove but I still have no clear if the frame can be slided out of the skin, as it seems that is "wraped around" the frame at the front end. Thank you, Carlos
  12. Hi, Thanks a lot for the info. At the moment I'm using the old one under the binnacle... but the td5 one is waaaay nicer regards Carlos
  13. Thank you Brian, The last bit I needed was the wiper motor, but it was sorted out yesterday !
×