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ChrisS

Getting Comfortable
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  1. Thanks for that, I'm going to go for them.
  2. I"ve found a pair of OEM side steps which came from a 10 plate XS spec 90. Will they fit my TD5 90 Black? They look exactly like the ones (rusted) that are on my Landy - is the fitting the same considering the differences in age etc.
  3. Thanks for that, Steve, I'll give it a go. After getting them out, I may be able to get a nut on one of the bolts when I refit the new bracket, the middle should be ok as the rivnut seems to be in place, but on the innermost one - any ideas? Is there anything like an expanding bolt as used in dry-lined walls? Could the bracket be riveted in place? (The nuts have an 8mm head) Chris
  4. Such a simple thing I thought to replace the rear mud flap which had all but torn off. I 've got a new rear offside mud flap riveted to a new bracket - I wasn't given the option of mud flap only and I didn't think of asking, and I now know that some of you fix mud flaps to existing brackets with stainless bolts, washers and nuts for easy removal. I have removed the middle bolt from the bracket - it was stiff all the way but must have been either in a captive bolt or threaded hole. The remaining two are the problem. They are both loose and rotating, but neither slacken any more or indeed even tighten back up. After getting out mud which was packed inside the ? x-member? I can just feel s collar round one of the bolts which I can rotate with my fingertip. Is this some king of captive nut or threaded thing which has sheared off the inside of the X-member? Any suggestions? I can't believe that it would be designed so that the whole back end would need to be removed to replace mud flaps, so presumably they must be captive nuts. If I do need to remove the x-member and therefore the rear step, tow bar bracket, what else needs to come off, and what are the problems that I am likely to encounter. Even so, I've still got to get at these bolts/captive nuts and find a way of bolting the new bracket in place. There is very little access into the box that the rear member is formed into at that point.
  5. Thanks for the replies. Sureterm and Adrian Flux I 'd already got quotes from - pretty high even after Sureterm requoted me at over 100 quid less than their original renewal. As suggested by some of you, I tried NFU, who quoted much lower than anyone else, so it's sorted. Cheers
  6. Where do you get your insurance from, and how much are you paying? I thought that my quote from Sureterm last year for £405 was ridiculous after my Jeep at £300. I have 9 years no claims and my Landy Black has a Warn winch. After getting good low quotes on line last year, as soon as i mentioned "winch" the underwriters didn't want to know. A couple came back with quotes well over £400. I've just got my renewal through from sureterm, - £529 !! Come on what do you pay and who with? I stupidly thought that Landies would be cheeper than jeeps. Cheers, Chris
  7. Thanks Mo and Nige. Yes it was just stuck with rust and rubber - took a yank to shift. Removing the upper seatbelt mounting and prising back the trim, I can reach up to the captive nuts on their plate for refitting.
  8. Managed to loosen enough trim to get fingers onto captive nuts and hold them in place. O.K. BUT whilst the rest of the bars are ready to ping off, the bars to the roof are not budging despite the bolts in the plate being off. What's holding them in place? Any ideas?
  9. I've just got around to trying the bolts as suggested and everything seems to be captive nuts. I've loosened everything off and started to remove the bolts - then CLUNK! as the bolts on the roof bracket are removed - captive nuts drop inside roof. I can see the clip thingy for the captive nuts through one of the holes for the bolts. How do you remove the appropriate trim without damage?
  10. I don't know. They were a factory fitted special edition thing. Do i ned to remove roof trim to find out? There's no internal structure visible.
  11. I don't know. They were a factory fitted special edition thing. Do i ned to remove roof trim to find out? There's no internal structure visible.
  12. Thanks for the replies. Here are some pics.
  13. I need to remove the half roll cage from my 90 Black for blasting and powder coating. It's bolted on in four places, wing top near wind screen and above the rain gutter. Are the nuts captive, or will I need to remove the interior trim in the roof? (It never seems to go back as well when trim is removed). I've put my hand up inside the wing from the from the bonnet, but I can't feel any nuts let alone get a spanner there.
  14. One successful test run later. Thanks Western. I slackened everything off and moved the two nuts to where push rod met the top of the clutch pedal when it was at rest and tightened up - and it worked. I had set it where it was on the original, but i can see why it should be where it is now. I did have quite a job to tighten the two nuts to lock them. A nylock nut would have been much better. There's no way I'm taking the cylinder out to put one on after all the mither I've had though.
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