andymach23

Sorry, the thread I was thinking of on AULRO is inconclusive on the hubs. Worth a read anyway... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/66474-disco1-disco2-defender-p38-interchangable-parts.html

I bought a 2nd hand hub for my TD5 that was complete with half shaft, so I didn't have to release the stake nut. Just the 4 rear hub bolts. This made it a gift to fit. The breaker prefered to supply them like this. There is a thread on AULRO with details on using P38 hubs on the D2. It covers general parts interchangability for the D2. I had a quick look but couldn't find it. It's in one of the maintenance sections. Cheers, Andy

Sounds very like the clutch switch. I had this happen on mine. The switch is actually under the bonnet towards the drivers side wing, and is attached to the clutch hydraulic pipe. Its' an easy repair and the switch costs about a fiver from LR.

Did the engine actually cut out completely or drop back to idle maybe? I had a 'Driver Demand' fault recently that had the engine light coming on and the engine dropping back to idle with no response from the throttle. Restarting cleared the fault for a time. The solution was a new throttle assembly. Just a thought

I'm no expert at all but I read in the RAVE manual I think, that the clutch switch was to stop the engine 'flaring' when changing gear. I take this to mean that the engine will have a built in tendency to flare (rev) when changing gear which is what yours is now doing with it unplugged. When the switch is working properly I think it sends a signal to the ECU to cut fueling when the clutch is depressed. As you say, for that price it is just worth fitting a new one anyway.

I agree that it is the clutch switch. My TD5 was doing exactly this. The new one from LR is less than a fiver and completely solved the problem. It's a doddle to fit to. Cheers, Andy

This may sound daft but this reminds me of a weird noise in my TD5 I was chasing for weeks. The final clue was that it would go away if I held the gear lever. It turned out that a biro had fallen down a hole in the gear stick gaitor and was vibrating against the bottom of the metal gear stick . The nib bit of the biro was metal which made it worse. Really glad to find it as it was doing my mind in

Hi Not sure what's involved in fitting em, but I have them on my TD5 and I think they are great. I often park in the street outside my house and it's great just doing the power fold. I've often also folded them in when driving, passing other vehicles down narrow lanes etc. Just wondering, should ES not have power fold as standard? I remember when I got my car, it was about 6 months befor I realised I had power fold. I pushed the mirror adjuster button down by accident one day and got a nice suprise Cheers, Andy

Hi Does the vibration smooth out again after a few hundred revs past 3000? Mine is more like a harsh sound to the engine with a bit of extra vibration that goes away again. I don't know what causes it and have read quite a few posts with this sort of thing happening with this engine. Cheers, Andy

Hi, This exact thing happened on my D2. I was advised to remove the abs sensor and look into the hole. If there was oil present then it was the bearing seals. When I took the abs sensor ou there was a pool of oil in there. I bought a used hub with half shaft still attached and it was a very easy job to swap it out as I didn't have to deal with the hub stake nut as it was super tight. I had initially thought that my problem was due to failed brake caliper seals so fitted a new caliper. Doh! Cheers Andy

My TD5's steering feels terrible when I have the tyre pressures at 28 or 29psi at the front. I know that this is the recommended PSI. If I drop the pressure down to 25 psi the steering feels much better. I've 16 inch wheels and road tyres. The last time I checked my tyres at a garage, I dropped them to 25 psi. The steering felt terrible so I checked the pressures on my compressor at home and they were reading over 30. I dropped the pressure and the steering is ok again. Looks like the garage air gauge was up the left maybe. Maybe your pressures are too high? The steering still isn't great with the current lower pressure. It feels very much like you describe. Light and floaty when cornering. It doesn't pull to the side and I have had the wheels recently balanced. It follows ruts etc in the road but I feel that is maybe due to the wide tyres. I'm not sure if it is ok to run the fronts at lower pressures. I may have some bush wear issues like others have described, which gets masked to an extent with the lower tyre pressures. I'll start to look into the steering in more detail when the weather improves. Cheers Andy

Hi This thread gives some useful info on the 300 Tdi. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35169 Cheers Andy

A while back I unplugged my MAF just to see what happened. The car didn't really run any differently. I had no issues and was just tinkering. Last week I cleaned the MAF element with some cotton buds soaked in contact cleaner. The difference is very noticable. The car is reving out far better than before and is pulling more strongly through the grears. It seems smoother and is generally much improved. It looks like my MPG has improved too, but I'll know better in a week or so when I hit the reserve light. It seems that the TD5 is very sensitve to MAF issues. It might be worth trying to clean it. Cheers Andy

Hi My TD5 does this. I think I read that this is normal behaviour as there is some sort of bypass going on in the cooling system to help the car warm up initially. The cooling system then fully opens up which is why the needle then suddenly rises to normal. Maybe someone could clarify this. Cheers Andy

This was the first job I did on my TD5. It does sound like your bias plate has snapped. It's a pretty easy job if you take your time. If you got the Land Rover RAVE manual it gives good instructions. 4 screws takes the console off. Tip: when you disengage the handbrake from the cable to raise it up to get console out, try not to fully disengage the handbrake rachet. If you do, the rod that works the handbrake release button can bend and make the button stick. You can jam something up to bend it back maybe. I did this on mine and got a new handbrake. I since read about the bent rod. Also, make sure the bias plate is adjusted properly before you put the console back. Drive it and make sure the 2 -> 3 change is clean. Not good enough just checking with the car parked up. Cheers Andy

Hi This one will have the high road tax as it's registered after March 2001. It will be about £500 a year when the tax hike happens. My TD5 is 2000 so will stay at it's current level, for the time being any way. Cheers Andy

Hi Simon Glad you made some progress. I made a mark with a hacksaw on the threaded bar to enable me to reset it. It is amazing how much difference a small turn makes. I put 2 turns on mine and then backed it off to 1.5 I got a boost gauge to check what was happening but never got around to fitting it. How far off the boost limit are you with this max reading? Cheers Andy

Hi Simon I'm no expert, but could it be anything to do with the length of the wastergate rod? I have played around with my rod and found that shortening the length of the rod by 1 turn or so on the adjuster made a big difference to the amount of boost I was getting. From memory, I think shortening the rod inresases boost but I could have got that the wrong way round. Cheers Andy

No sunroof(s) is a definitely a plus!

Hi Cipx2 Interesting thread. Cheers for posting it. Andy

I'm no expert , but my turbo wastegate rod was sticking and that was affecting the power of my car. Apparently this is a very common issue. I took the rod off and lubed the wastegate arm and worked it back and forward a bit. I also have had power issues with the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold being gunged up. I also had a film of dirt on my MAF connections and the other sensor on the airbox which seemed to be affecting the running of the car. Another common one is the turbo and intercooler hoses delaminting and restricting the air flow. Cheers Andy

It looks like I need a replacement rear TD5 hub as I have oil on the back of my rear brake disk and can see oil in the hole after taking out the ABS sensor. I've been looking at the job in RAVE and have a problem achieving the 360 lbs ft torque for the hub nut. I can get a used hub which is still attached to the drive shaft, so I am thinking that I could maybe get away with undoing the 4 rear hub bolts, to get the old one off and replace the hub, without having to work at the hub nut? Could anyone advise me on this please? Maybe there is something I've missed. Cheers Andy

I checked this today and could see plenty of oil in the ABS sensor hole. I didn't even need to push anything in. Now looking on ebay etc for a used hub. Groan! Cheers Andy

Peter Thanks very much for posting this. I've been fretting all day about this. New hubs are a serious price. I'll give this a try. Cheers Andy

It looks like I spoke too soon on this. I had another look and I still have oil on my disk. It looks like I also need a hub seal. Cheers Andy