kevinr

Yeah..would have to agree, I had a stalling problem the other week and during my fault finding, I noticed a big crack on my genuine dizzy...popped out to motor factors to get a replacement part (all I could get on low budget and o time) and have to say..it's ran like a bag of nails since Lucky for me, pay day is here so genuine it is!

hmm..interesting! cause the sump does need a new seal. I know when the clutch was replaced, I had the mechanic check the oilseal by the flywheel and that was in good order, the only other leak I could see was the sump, I take it this is an easy job to do, if so, then I will do that on the next oil change (I assume, drain oil, remove sump, clean with petrol then reattach using new gasket?? ) Alo, there is a recommended oil for V8, some kind of performance oil that I have seen mentioned in a couple of posts on the forums, but can I hell as like find them...could someone in the know drop a reply here please

Hi, I have an oil leak at the rear of the brake drum, now I'm aware that his is usually an indication of the rear output shaft oilseal going bye bye, however, the oil smells and looks like regular engine oil, and not the usual 'cat pee' smell of gear oil. Before I go and buy all the parts to repair the output shaft, Is there anything else that could be leaking that would show up here? and would it be worth trying to repair it? I thought I'd better as first, as it would be real annoying to replace the oilseal/bearing/drive flange and find that it never cured the problem. Thanks Kev

I do believe it should be capped off..I have a discovery V* 3.9 EFI, and that's what I have, the one pipe running to the plenum, and a second pipe, that is just capped off with a black dust cover...of course, it is possible that a different landrover model has a different setup. but I see no real reason why.

That's correct, mine is mountd next to the coil, and when they initially mentioned the pins, I assumed they meant the amp anyway...oh well...stealers eh Anywho...anymore suggestions on where I could locate a replacement, preferably new, ebay is a little slim on them atm, the only one I could find was £17 and I'm not sure it's the right kind.

Yeah, give it a go, my disco was on standard road tyres, and had no mods at all, and it handled itself beautifully, even through mud that was halfway up the wheels, and even managed to get wheel deep through water without a splutter..all in all it handled well..even surprising some of the jap owners One thing I was told and always stick to is "As slow as you need, but as fast as necessary" As for pay and PLay, isn't KORC running this weekend? http://www.kirtonoffroadcentre.co.uk/

thanks for the suggestion, but I'm very much of the opinion that a replacement from a scrapyard has the same life expectancy of the one I already have..and they are apparently notorious for failing...however...I didn't like the hefty price tag given it by landrover 74 bleeding quid!!! all I'll say is that the damn thing had better be gold plated when I buy it! Anyone know what is meant by 2 or 3 pin? I was asked by landrover which mine was..i assume 2 pin as it has a 'pin' that the vaccum hose attached to, and another one that is blanked off. The thread I was reading is this one http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=39294 Is quite a good read, and certainly helped me out. Kev

OK, as the titles suggest, I broke something. I was reading another thread on optimizing a V8, and was reading an issue regarding the vacuum advance, causing some problems, so I followed the 'suck' test and got a gob full of air, I removed the flash shield and saw no movement either, so..I removed the vacuum advance thingymajig. The front screw was loose, and the rearward screw a PITA, but I got it off, cleaned all around the mating face, and retested, and sure enugh, no pressure, so bit needs replacing...all good (any sgestions on where to get a new one?..other then paddocks) Anyway, as I was reassembling everything, I overtightened the rear screw, which promptly snapped the threaded collar in the distributor casing, now, this bit is replaceable as far as I can tell, however, what kind of place would sell this, if at all, or can I resecure it with a suitibly sized nut and bolt? TIA Kev

Would that be a cause of a quite a severe vibration that appears at around 60-70 mph? been getting that for a little while now..was thinking it was either steering damper (which was brand new 4 months ago) or poorly balanced wheels as it was when I had my tyres replaced that I first noticed it...but to be fair, I had done very little fast driving until that point. But back to the topic at hand, thanks for all the replies guys, I will certainly do the job myself, was a little concered removing items from the diff without getting some advice first. The UJ's seem fine, I've had a bar in the join and tried moving them..absolutly no play at all, there is a little movement in both props, unless the handbrake is on, then the rear one is solid..all normal I presume.

hmm..will experiment with the gear change thing see what happens...I already did a gearbox oil change last week so that's all good (no large metal lumps either ) Mechanically, I am quite confident to try anything, partly due to techinical curiosity..mostly due to me being too tight to spend money on a mechanic if I can do the job just as well myself. I checked hains, and all it says about the diff is, it can be done by an experienced mechanic, but really you should take it to a specialist...yeah..well I beg to differ Anyone able to tell me what's involved?

Hi all, I have a small leak on the rear diff, from the drive flange. Is this a job I can do myself, or am I better getting someone specialised to do it? As I have also got a leak on the transfer gearbox output shaft, I was wondering if this could be related , caused by another problem perhaps, or just pure coincidence, either way, both need plugging. A noticable issue I have when I change gear is it's occasionally a little rough on the uptake between gears, tough this gets slightly better as the engine gets warmer..could this be attributed to this in anyway? I have checked the upperlinks, and get no noticable movement on the ball join, however, where they connect to the body, there is side to side movement..is this normal? Tanks in advance Kev

I had the same problem , though I had to opt for a replacement diff lever housing. When you reassembled the housing, did you set the lever position correctly? When I rebuilt mine, I hadn't and it stopped the light working, or in my case, the diff lock itself. I seem to recall that there was no actual switch attached to the linkage, it was all internal, so I would suggest that maybe your diff is not quite engaging. It's a simple adjustment, just loosen the collar that connects to the lever, and slide the lever through a little more, tighten and try it out before replacing the diaphragm.

phew...thank heavens for that And I have to say, I have noticed a considerable difference in the drive, uptake and gear changes are alot better.

All done, and what a pig of a job!! after finally wrestling the drain plug out, draining it all and giving the whole thing a clean, I put the new oil in....despite being a large car, I still needed and armthe size of a small child to reach around everythig to squeeze the bottle. I know have another problem. partly my fault for not reading the bottles correctly, mostly Motor factors fault for not giving me the right product. Of the 3 bottles I got, only 2 were dex II the other was Dex III, the 2 dex II went into the gearbox, and it was topped with Dex III (around 700ml worth) I noticed this error after I had done the job. Is this going to be a big issue needing me to drain it all out again, or will it be fine? what's the difference between the 2?

thanks guys, will be getting that done today. Ches - thanks for the tip , I already know about that one, I think I read about it here, would be a royal pain in the arse to drain it all and find I can't remove the filler plug

thanks guys, will get it sorted. Had to put the job on hold today as I was a ittle short of oil, but I also managed to pick up some NGK sparks and Bosch HT leads while I was there, so it'll all get done tomorrow. While I'm at it, I have a brand new coil laying about, a bluetronic12v coil, the only marking is a rubber stamped 'xic 8048 0907' on the bottom, it's blue and yellow banded and has 'commercial ignition' on it....is it a good replacement for the bosch ne I have in? if not, It'll be an ebay seller

Maybe a strange question, but here goes. I'm trying to do an oil change on the main gearbox today, basically, I have noisy gearchanges now, 1st and 2nd can be a little problematic to get into..even 3rd has started. I do have plans to check/overhaul/replace the clucth master and slave cylinders as it's a problem since the clutch was changed, however, start with the 'easy' stuff first, and to be honest, at 130k mils, it could probably do with it. My question is, what way does the drain plug unscrew? it may be an odd question, but it is stuck in that hole damn tight and I don't want to brute force it the wrong way, and car manufacturers have a habit of throwing in a reverse thread nut/bolt from time to time. Ta Kev

I was having a look under the car yesterday to see what I'd need to do the gearbox oil change etc, and I noticed that the shroud that covers the gearbox was not fully seated into its position, and had been tie wrapped by the mechanics who did my clutch change. I've made several attempts to reseat it, but all unsucessful, but the problem is, this is rubbing against my propshaft which is now a polished silver. Could this be the cause of the irritating grinding/awful audible rubbing noise I get on occasions (all can be felt through the clutch pedal aswell) and can I remove it without issue? Or, am I going to have to get it figured out, and clipped back in polace correctly? I also noticed aswell, that when they did the clutch change, they used a screwdriver to relocate/prie apart the gearbox from the engine..how can I tell???? a lovely big screwdriver shaped notch dug out onf the mating face on the gearbox!!! Is this a problem, or should I be worried about anything..other then poor practice from the mechanics

if there is spark and fuel, then it should go. Are you positive there is fuel? I had a very similar problem a while back, the initial problem was the amp, but the mechanic from the motoring association that checked things out for me, reconnected the wiring on the side of the coil all wrong, so the ECU was not getting a correct signal, and not firing the injectors.

When I've gone out greenlaning with my response group, I've had my V8 upto the top of it's wheels in water and didn't get a cough from the engine...as you can imagine, the CB was full of laughs and jokes about V8's and water...then all silent when I emerged on the otherside without her missing a beat..well..silent except for my own choice comments back Saying that though, I am still plumping for a MS conversion just as soon as funds allow.

thanks...worth a look, i do actualy have problems selecting first and second on the odd occasion, I just never gave it another thought.

have you tried resyncing the fob? there is a section in the manual that covers this. Or does the central locking fail even when you use the key in the drivers door? If so, try checking the fuses, it may have blown

well, wow..what can I say. I have not replaced anything as yet (no funds) but I have gone over the ht leads and plugs, found 2 plugs that needed tweaking up a bit more..so much for torque settings!! and I foundsome of the leads were not 100% seated into the dizzy cap, infact one of them I had to use a small screw driver to fully seat it, for the rest, I pulled back the rubber boot and made sure they were seated. I also took the time to route my cables following a diagram I found in the tech archives, and what a difference!!! the engine doesn't race anymore, during gear change or when I come to a standstill, when I pull away, I get a positive response rather then a second of nothing, then a pull, the gear change is alot smoother, and that vibration/grinding I felt through the clutch pedal is alot less pronounced....amazing really, so lesson learnt here is a few more minutes taken when changing sparks and leads is worth a whole lot less headache so thanks for the tips guys..pure gold! The next job will be to plug the oil leak on the transfer box, replace the leads with genuine parts, NGK plugs, exhaust mid section (I still have a little less power then I had originally) and once I can get hold of a strobe, check the timing, maybe advance it a little, and then to check and adjust the tappets, I have a slight clicking sound from the engine, assume tappets??

Having removed the skirt from around the front bumper, and as such, the front fogs, can anyone tell me if it is possible to wire my front spots upto this circuit? Beyond physically attaching the wires to the lights, can this circuit take the 2 x 55watt halogens I have fitted, or would I need to step that down a bit, also, is there any MOT issues with this? It just seems a shame to have a fully integrated circuit doing nothing, when I could remove the switch and relay from my own install...and potentially any future issues arising from having my own electrial handywork involved in the car, also, it's more astetically pleasing considering there is a purpose fitted switch already in place.

You can buy the parts seperatly, but it's not always cost effective. I had an issue not so long back where I had to replace my alternator..it stopped charging rather then over charged. The problem was, it could have been one of several parts that needed replacing, and there was a fair amount involved that I was not willing to take on, so in the end I opted for a whole new replacement.... There's a place in Plymouth I used, who was the cheapest place I could find for a genuine replacement, and that included his delivery charge to Hull..if your interested, PM me and I'll send you the details of the place.