110WestCape

Unlikely to be the hazard flasher switch if thew hazards are working fine. The indicator problem .... if the flasher relay and fuses are fine it could probably be the indicator switch on the steering column ? Probably b est to have a 12v tester at hand to trace the culprit.

Thinking about it, probably not at 4 bar. One would probably have to test the system at that point to determine the pressure. Fuel pressure would normally be tested at the point where it enters the fuel pressure regulator (HP side), it should be the quoted 4 bar (as per Rave). The injectors pressurise the fuel to approx 1500 bar and excessive fuel from the common rail not taken into the injectors then exits back through the pressure regulator to the cooler and back to the filter and tank. Sooo ... to answer my own question , it cannot be at 4 bar as it is at the point where the pressure drops from 4 bar to the LP stage. Conclusion .... lower than 4 bar .... how much pressure ? ..... would need to be tested. Silver soldering ? Will give it a try ... unless the more knowledeable people here can show me the way.

Hi folks, A fuel cooler on a TD5 has 2 x stub pipes attached to the fuel cooler body which allows for fuel return from the injectors to pass through the cooler and exit the cooler through the second stub back to the filter / tank etc. The fuel cooler is made of stainless steel, it seems. I am about to repair a crack where the stub pipe is attached to the fuel cooler cannister. Would silver soldering be the correct way ? Would a silver soldered repair be able to withstand the pressure in the fuel cooler (4 bar)? Appreciate your thoughts on this. Regards Wikus

Very kind of you. Thanks

Hi Ian, by the looks of it your problem is not entirely solved yet ? Try the following if not already done :- 1) Check the intercooler hoses and turbo pipes - if their internals are weakened they could be sucked closed. 2) turbo waste gate actuator - although this seems unlikely, try and clean the actuator rod from any pitting etc. Good luck Wikus

Excuse the ignorance please, is this something that I need to action w.r.t. the link or is it done by the forum moderators ?

Someone asked .... Boiling point of Butane = -0,5 oC Boiling point of Propane = -42 oC LPG boils between -42 oC and 0 oC depending the mix of Butane and Propane.

Hi Owen, I can confirm that it works in 4th and 5th gears over 40 kph. I have not tried it in other gears yet. The "dashed line box" is the switch used for set/accellerate and suspend/resume functions. I used a TD5 electric window switch (the one normally used for the up-down functions). If unsure which of the six pins to connect ..... pin 1 of this switch provides +12V into the switch, pin 4 & 3 connects to ECU pins 11 & 17. It provides momentary +12v to switch the ECU for CC purposes. If you are unsure which of the switch pins to use, it is easy enough to connect a 12v test lamp to the switch pins and play around with it until you find the correct combination. The +12v to Pin 10 of the ECU enables the CC to disconnect when the brake pedal is depressed. The CC also disconnects when the clutch pedal is operated. I added an on / off switch (heated seat switch) between the +12V feed from the loom and pin 15 of the ECU to activate of de-activate the CC. Cheers Wikus

Hi, after some research on the topic i could not find a comprehensive schematic that answered all my questions. So i combined some info, installed, tested and it works. Here is the diagram anyway. DEFENDER TD5 CRUISE CONTROL.pdf Cheers Wikus

New MAF is on order. I managed to clean the filaments with a cotton bud and surgical alcohol. Although there was no dirt visible I still managed to clean some stuff off it. Some have said that a thin film of an oily substance accumulates on the filaments over time which causes them to provide incorrect readings. This can be removed with a non corrosive solvent that leaves no residue. It tested okay but would like to run it a bit more before I can confirm if its sorted or not. Cheers Wikus

okay ..... The quantity of fuel injected would be a function of a potentiometer signal. If the accelerator is pushed in, the potentiometer would send a signal to the ECU regarding its position on a "map" which would influence fuel delivery into the injection chambers. I assume that actual airflow is measured via the MAF and converted to a a calculation by the ECU. In the event of the absence of the MAF information it seems to revert to a default air/fuel mixture map. This would enable the engine to run near normal but not optimised for actual fuel & air mixture. This could cause over or under fuelling relevant to the demand vs actual airflow. I disconnected the MAF this weekend and did a +- 120 km trip. The increase in power at pull away is noticeable and thereafter seems to be a decrease in performance. The TD5 struggled somewhat on inclines. I'll try to clean the MAF filaments with surgical alcohol and see if it is okay ..... else it's a new MAF I suppose.

I have noticed a decrease in turbo lag on mine as well when the MAF sensor is unplugged. Would like to know what purpose the MAF has when the EGR is blanked off ? Any effect on the ECU and pulses to the injectors perhaps? Any known consequences if the MAF is disconnected permanently ? Cheers Wikus

Okay, so here's the story that goes with the rest ...... embarrasing but what the heck someone may benefit from it at least We were on a trip from Cape Town to The Kruger National Park (altogether +- 5000 Km round trip). After approx 1000 kms the TD5's diesel lift pump started squealing like it had a severe case of the swine flu. There was also a noticeable decrease in engine power at low end and again at +- 2500 revs. It was like the engine was hunting for something that was previously there and could no longer be found. We stopped over at dealer in a larger city (hell, we were desperate not to cut our trip short by too much). Long and short of it we drove away from there (very helpful people) with a new diesel pump installed. Take into consideration exchange rate, import duty, further distribution cost, a night in a hotel that was unplanned etc and we now had a very expensive new diesel pump fitted. The new pump also squealed ....... At this stage I decided to drive through to our destination where I could have a proper look at the problem. So we have a lovely forum with plenty of wisdom ..... which was studied extensively. There was no oil visible at the ECU red plug end. I bought a new diesel filter on the way with the intention to fit it at our destination (OEM filter on vehicle). The filter on the vehicle was a new one (fitted before we left home) ..... arrived at the destination ..... replacement filter was the incorrect one. I needed a GUD Z108 but in my wisdom bought a GUD Z180. Another dealer later (this was now on the way home already) and I was told after testbook analysis that 2 of the injectors were faulty. They could not help me due to a backlog in their workshop etc. Apparently the cyclinder head had to be removed to fix the injector problem. News taken with a pinch of salt offcourse, but i did get a printed copy of the testbook results. So we arrived back home .... truely *&^% off with the defender. Bought a new set of o-rings and injector stem seals which I replaced this weekend. You guessed correctly ...... the pump was still squealing along merrily ... no improvement in driving performance either. In the meantime I bought a new "correct" version of the diesel filter and fitted it. Problem solved !!!!! no more squealing and no more performance lag ......... The filter had developed an air leak at the seam which was not visible, it did however not leak diesel anywhere. Long and short of it ..... the problem was fixed at an equivalent cost of £650 .... the real culprit cost less than £5. The OEM filter "faulty one" was well within it's replacement period. It had done slightly more than 1000kms when the problem started. It was also the second consecutive OEM filter on my Defender that had developed an unforseen problem. The purchase of an expensive slide hammer to remove the injectors was avoided in the process which made me feel slightly better ..... and we got to see the BIG 5 real close up.

I unfortunately did not take pics during the injector removal process. Here's what I used anyway.

The TD5 had been acting up so i decided to replace the injector o-rings and injector stem seals (copper washers). Articles and Rave indcates the requirement of a slide hammer type tool to remove the injectors from their seats. Needless to say the local dealers could not / would not sell me such a tool. They are costly to say the least. After looking around the toolbox I noticed something that I thought could work. I targeted an old "el cheapo" water pump pliers and seperated the two parts by removing the bolt & nut that kept it together. Ended up with a short "pry bar" that is shaped perfectly to fit into the space and under the injector where it seats. With very little effort and great care not to damage anything I managed to lift all five injectors free of their seats. Perhaps this could help someone in the future and prevent them from spending good money unnecessarily. Cheers Wikus