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NEPALandy

Getting Comfortable
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    Scranton, PA
  1. I should clarify that after loosening the gaps to around .020, it starts on a dime again., there is not excessive white smoke upon startup and idling is more consistent.
  2. Thank you for all the feedback. The only caveat to the whole timing discussion is the issue I'm having with the valve clearances. As I mentioned, when my mechanic first removed the rocker, none of the clearances where correct (some gaps as large as .050 inch). Since doing the timing belt and resetting the gaps, I put probably 30 miles or so on it and experienced all the sypmtoms that I described in my first post. Last night I removed the rocker again to recheck the clearances, and they were all out of whack again. I think 3 kept the .010 gap, but a few others were even tighter that .010, which is cause for concern. In fact on one valve, I could feel the gap changing clearances (tightening) when I slowly turned the crankshaft with the feeler guage still on the valve. As far as I can tell, my problem is either bad rollers or something with the camshaft. I figured I'd rather have larger gaps than having things too tight and end up buring a valve, so I adjusted all of the clearances to about .020 inch, and the engine returned to its normal loud, rattling state that I'd been used to. I haven't played with the injection pump at all, because I think the valve clearances were causing all the issues I mentioned. Does this make sense?
  3. Thank you for the responses. I have the 12pc timing kit from Paddock Spares, I believe one of the pins in the kit fits into the injection pump. Is it possible to make the necessary adjustments to the injector pump from the outside (front) of the timing case, without having to remove the entire case and belt? It looks like there are 3 Phillips head screws fastening a plate that covers the front of the injector pump where it fastens into the timing case. Eightpot - Is that what you mean by slackening the bolts holding the pump to the timing case?
  4. Hi Everyone, I've got a 1985 Ex Mod 110 with a 2.5 NA diesel. I brought it to my mechanic last week to change the timing belt and check the valve clearances, and there are now some new issues with the engine. When he checked the clearances, he told me instead of the 0.010 of an inch the manual calls for, my clearances were all out of whack, with some gaps as large as 0.050 of an inch. After the adjustment, the engine seems to generally run more smoothly, however, I'm having the following problems: - When trying to start, the starter begins to crank but then "whines" almost as if there is no resistance on the engine. Almost as if its skipping. Before getting it back from my mechanic, the truck would instantly start if the engine was hot, now it struggles to start when it is up to running temp. - Significant amount of white smoke upon startup - When idling, there is an intermittent "chugging" sound, almost as if the engine is not getting enough air, and sounds as if it is close to stalling out. In fact on a cold start, if I don't rev the engine for a 20 seconds or so, it will stall. - Intermittent clicking/rattling from what seems to come from under the rocker cover under medium to high revs - very pronounced after a cold start during higher revs in 2nd and 3rd gear. Oddly enough the noise is non-existent doing 65 in 5th gear on the highway. The mechanic I brought this to is not a diesel mechanic, but took on the job because the engine seems "simple enough." Along with all the parts to do the timing (including the timing tool kit I'm almost positive he didn't use), I gave him the diesel Defender workshop manual and Haynes manual, so that is what he went off of to do both the timing and the valves. I' Any idea what is going on here? Thanks in advance for your help!
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