DaveA

Interesting comment about the handbrake, this can make some very strange noise if "slightly" on or dragging. I presume by "overdrive gear" you mean the torque converter locking up at around 50-55 mph. To my knowledge, this is normal .When starting from cold, there is a timer in the ecu that prevents converter lockup occuring. From memory, I think this is about 10 minutes from starting, regardless of driving conditions / speed.

Possibly non LR towing relay behind lights playing up?

Can't really remember tools, but I reckon less than an hour for swap, depending on how many bits you drop in the door ...

I can add to this a little, but as stated, the bottom line is probably a new actuator. The D2 lock mechanism has 2 motors, one for lock/unlock, and one for superlock/unlock. You can connect to the motor pins to check the motors (reverse polarity to lock/unlock). If the lock/unlock motor has broke,then when you lock the car with the remote, you generally "superlock" the door. When the superlock motor runs to lock, it mechanically locks the door as well as superlocking. When you try to unlock, the superlock motor unlocks the superlocking only.The unlock motor needs to run to actually unlock the door. Hope this makes sone sense! Although the unit is sealed up, you can repair some mechanical linkages, but if one of the motors have gone then its pretty terminal. Worse still, you need to remove the door top & window runners to get it out !!

OK - Did a bit of research on this, so here goes ... There is a significant difference between the Disco 2 fob & Rover 75. The door unlocking & diabling the alarm from pressing the unlock button is the same, and can be programmed into the D2 no problem. When you press the unlock button, all doors unlock, and the engine immobilised. If the car is not started after a short period (about 30 seconds if the door is opened & closed) then the immobiliser comes back on again & the car won't start. This is where the differences are - i) Disco 2 - If immobilised, when the ignition key is turned to position 2, the passive coil around the ignition "excites" the key fob. The key fob responds to this by briefly transmitting the "unlock" signal, received by the RF receiver in the roof. If the key is programmed to the vehicle, it will then start. If not, the red light on the dash stays on & it doesn't crank. ii) R75 - The key fob contains a separate transponder. Every time the ignition is turned to pos'n 3, the passive coil again "excites" the transducer in the fob. This transducer then transmits a code back through the coil to the alarm system. This has to match a pre-determined code stored in the ECU (10 keys max from new, more cannot be programmed) In summary, If a R75 key is used in a disco 2, then you will notice no difference in normal use, unless the passive immobiliser kicks in. Then the car will not crank when you turn the key. All you need to do is briefly press the unlock button (simulating what the coil is requesting). the red light will extinguish & the car will start. Disco keys will not work (havn't tried, but in theory is correct) in a R75. They could be programmed to remotely open the doors, but are unlikely to start the engine. I hope this will be of use to someone else in the future ....

My disco 2 is now down one key fob. I am relatively familiar with programming / sync'ing new fobs into the ECU, and have done this successfully a few times. I have bought a Valeo fob from a Rover 75, which I "believed" to be compatible. I have tried an RF test, and the ECU indicates that it receives a signal, from an un-programmed key. I have then entered the 6 digit code from the internal sticker, but the key still isn't recognised. Although the fob looks similar, I noticed some small differences, one being a small chip lodged in the back cover?? Has anyone ever done this, or are their different design level fobs for Rover 75's, or indeed Disco 2's ??

1 - Light on dash can be turned off. It's still looking for the compressor, need to be told it has coil springs instead. 2 - Key fobs are available on ebay for "reasonable" prices if you try hard. I notice you are in staffs - I can sort the above for you for a couple of pints ....

I was going to suggest that you check fuses, and all door switches-remember it wont blow up if it "thinks" there's a door open

I know I'm replying to my own post, but updates are always good .. I succeeded with the 10AS unit, but not after immobilising the vehicle for while by accident !! It works if you're careful, this doesn't seems as "friendly" as the disco 2 to program.

I use a TD5 auto for pulling a 26ft twin axle. No issues really, but although it pulls well, I get sick of revs - I think a manual might be better. That said, if you select 3rd, so that the torque converter can lock up at about 45, it stays locked right down to about 30 ish. If you can't go fast enough to get the torque converter locked, although it pulls no problem, it certainly gets thirsty !. Motorways at at steady 60 are no issue though, returning "reasonable" economy.

Does anyone know if it is possible to program new keyfobs (2 button type) into a Disco 1 alarm unit with a nanocom ? It's a late 300tdi, with the as10 (green?) module, and as the Nanocom can communicate with this unit on the Defender (incl TD5) I wondered if anyone had tried it. I've successfully done this to death on a TD5 disco 2, but never been near the disco 1. I have an extra keyfob to "learn", and I could do with the EKA code extracting. Any help appreciated ....

I just made a plywood box with a hinged door. Very cheap, and does the job perfectly. With a solid lid, I can still throw things on top of the box as well. And it keeps all the mud & dust inside the box & not the disco !

I understood that the fuel pump pressurises the system, and once at pressure (about 4 bar), the FPR routes excess fuel to tank via the fuel cooler. ie the injectors will always be fed with fuel, although if the pump is ng then it will be fed at a low pressure, which can cause problems in itself (low power/revs/missing). I have had the small gauze filter block, although this was through "mickey mouse!" fuel (as mentioned earlier on the forum)

Surely to get the car back to normal ride height you just press the "off road" button again? (or drive over about 20mph) Why would you need the remote ? I undersatand it could be useful for tow hitch alignment, but isn't that what the jockey wheel handle is for. Don't get me wrong, I'd quite like one of these for gadget, but they seem very expensive for the benfits.

I agree, sounds like the HG. Tell tale sign for me would be mayonnaise in either header tank or oil - should be able to see it on dipstick or filler cap. For real mayonnaise, I've just successfully done a 1.4 K series.