alexd106

Hi all All the springs on my 2004 crew cab td5 are looking pretty ropey and one of the dampers has a small hole in it. Can anyone tell me what type of springs and dampers were fitted as standard (all the paint marks on the springs are long gone). Also, does anyone have any experience with upgrading the suspension with aftermarket components? I do a bit of light off roading but mostly tarmac and prefer to keep it at standard height and road handling. Cheers Alex

Cheers Western. much appreciated. Seems like there are many options for the wolf HD rims and quite a price difference . Also looks like the black version is primer only

Thanks all, I do like the look of the wolf rims in black. Are the tubeless variety suitable for the bf Goodrich tyres and will they be a straight replacement for the alloys (no issues with chaffing etc). Thanks once again Alex

Hello all I currently have a set of very tired looking boost alloys (i think) on my 2004 TD5 crew cab. The tubeless tyres are quite recent (235/85/R16 BF goodrich A/T) so Iam looking to replace the alloys with a nice set of steel rims. Can anyone offer advice on what size rims in will need to get and any good suppliers (if thats allowed here). Cheers Alex

Great. Thanks to both ejparrot and peaklander.

Well, Ive had a good look to see if i can squeeze the rear tub to cross-member mounting out without either lifting or removing the tub and i think ejparrot is right - its a no go. So, the inevitable next question is what bolts do i need to loosen in the crew cab so i can jack up the rear by 2 inches? I have already removed the rear tup floor, supports and tophats as well as the second row seat belt bolts and floor (for another job), are there any in the c-plillars or roof? Peaklander - any photos would be a great help. Cheers Alex

Cheers. I'll give it a go and let you know.

Thanks again western. Looks like i'll be ordering that kit although its a tad expensive. At least i can use most of the other parts. Thanks for your help.

Thanks. I think the bush fits into the hole of the rear floor support and is where the seatbelt anchor mounts to. I have hunted around but might have to find an alternative. Cheers

Thanks again ejparrot. I had a sinking feeling i might have to take the rear tub off. How about jacking up the rear end so i can slip the old one out and the new one in? Would i need to loosen off any other bolts to get enough movement? if so can you point me in the right direction as to which bolts to loosen please. Thanks a million for all your advice. Alex

Thanks for the info ejparrot. I ve found previous YRM parts a pretty good fit in the past although the crew cab spec makes life interesting sometimes. There are definitely a few spot welds in the rear panel (you can just make out one in the bottom right of the photo above) in addition to the torx bolts. I would quite like to be able to remove this part without removing the tub, does anyone know if this is possible? Cheers Alex

Hi Western Thanks for that. Unfortunately its neither of those. Item 42 is too wide to fit into the hole through the underfloor support and item 5 looks more like an olive. These crew cabs seem to have enough variations to make finding part numbers problematic. Any other ideas? Cheers Alex

Dear all, I am currently in the process of sorting out my chassis of my crew cab (cleaning, painting etc) and one thing has led to another and i decided to sort out the rear tub at the same time. I have just removed the tub floor, tophats, underfloor supports and finally the fuel tank. The back end now looks like this The rear body mounting has a fair bit of galvanic corrosion (red arrow) and I thought now would be a good time to replace using a YRM part. My question is, can i do this without taking the tub off? If so is it just a case of removing the torx bolts and drilling some spot welds out of each of the rear panels (i can see 3 or 4 of them). Looking at it i think it might be tight removing the support out. Also, will i need to sure up the rear tub with wooden planks across the chassis as Iam assuning that when i remove the rear support there will be nothing left to support the tub! Any other jobs you would recommend whilst I have most of this out? Cheers Alex

Thanks Western, Just the job.

Hi all, Sorry to bother you all again but my crew cab seems to have enough variations on a standard 110 that i keep having trouble finding part numbers. Anyway, could anyone point me in the right direction for a fuel tank top brace (strap) - white arrow on photo below Also, will a standard fuel tank guard fit my crew cab? I have had a look at the one on paddock and they look a bit different. Mine is below many thanks once again for your help. Cheers Alex

Hi, I have a 2004 crew cab td5 and I'm looking for a part number for the following bush for the second row under floor seat support The bush was located in a hole (red arrow) in the in the under floor support through which a bolt passes and attaches to the chassis Many thanks Alex

Hi part guru's I nearly choked on my tea when i saw the price of a middle seat support plate MWC5455 (>£90 each). Does anyone know why this is so expensive or any suitable alternative? Is it a structural component meade out of extra special metal? Can i replace with 3 mm steel (or similar) with hole suitably drilled and nut and bolt instead of captive nut? Thanks Alex MWC5455 MWC5455

Quick update in case this might help anyone else suffering the same problem. So the issue turned out to be the cross shaft. It was completely stuck due to surface rust and lack of use (mostly on the passenger side end cap). The linkages were are fine - if a little rusty. I ended up removing the transmission tunnel and both front footwell floors (the screws were all a rusty mess and needed replacing anyway) for better access but this might be doable by just removing the rubber gaitor from the lever (but dont quote me!) Here is the housing with the rubber gaitor removed. You can see the rusty end of the cross shaft in the first picture and the top linkages Before i did anything i moved the transfer gear lever into neutral. I removed the 4 studs (2 short 2 long) on the housing and undid the bolt on the top linkage and also the operating arm. After which i was able to easily remove the housing and carefully remove the paper gasket. Once in the garage i could see the rusty end of the cross shaft more easily Here is the mechanism with the housing turned upside down Removing the cross shaft was pretty straight forward, just remove the circliip around the plastic sheath, undo the clevis pin on the crank arm and finally undo the two screws in the end cap. I needed to give the cross shaft a bit of a whack on each end with a hammer using a punch to release it from the end cap due to the rust (no wonder i couldnt move it in the truck). Once it was all cleaned up, lubbed and reassembled it all moved much more smoothly and i can now lock my diff. Happy days. Just need to sort out the floor panels in the footwells now. Thanks to Steve for supplyig me with some earlier info. Alex

Cheers Steve, much appreciated. I'll take a look tomorrow but when i tried that previously it didnt seem to help. When i move the diff selector lever to engage the diff i cant see any of the top likages move or the cross shaft (i think thats what its called!). I wonder if its seized. CAn i engage the diff at the transfer box end? do i need to remove the linkages to do this? To be honest iam still trying to figure out how all the linkages and the cross shaft move together the turn the diff selector at the box end! Also, as i have never seen a working diff lock iam not sure how far the selector lever is supposed to move. Can you give me an idea please. Cheers for your help Alex

Dear members After trawling through lots of posts on this great site I am looking for some advice regarding my diff lock. I have a 2005 td5 defender and my diff lock will not engage. The box selects high and low without a problem but when i try to select the diff lock the gear level will only move anout 0.5-1 cm and no light is illuminated on the dash. I have taken a look at the linkage mechanism and it appears free from crud and i have given it all a liberally spray (or 5) of Plusgas. Still no luck. I removed the rubber gator and the foam to take a look at the the top of the mechanism. When the lever is in the unlocked position it looks like this When i try to move the lever to the locked position the gold (red arrow) thingymagjig (sorry, not sure what this is called) moves to the drivers side a little but the shaft (arrowed white) does not move at all. This is what it looks like when i move the lever to the locked position Is the shaft (white arrow) supposed to move? When i wiggle the gear selector the linkage does not appear to move at all. Can anyone help? Thanks a million Alex

Thanks western, much appreciated. Looks like it might be worth a shot. I'll just need to drill a small hole for the small nobby bit on the reel to angle it back. Cheers. Alex

Dear all part number specialistas I am trying to find the part number (or even better the parts) of the rear forward facing outer interia reel mounting bracket for a 2004 crew cab td5 defender. Ive looked at the parts catalogues but annoyingly i cant find the configuration for my truck (or more likely im being dumb). see attached photo Thanks for your help. Alex

Cheers again guys got all your help. I'm going to spray the contacts in the red ecu connector with contact cleaner tomorrow. I took her out for a longish spin today and no repeat of the cutting out problem. Can anyone tell me where the earthing points in the engine bay are? I had a look today but couldn't see them. Cheers Alex

Thanks Guys I did take a quick look under the drivers seat this afternoon and although dusty I couldn't see any oil on the wiring loom or ecu. I didn't pull the connections apart though so I guess there could be some oil actually in the connection. I'll check this tomorrow along with the earth's. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the earthing points? I don't think it's the keys jigging about as I only have the two keys on the keyring and i failed to replicate the fault by jigging the key in the ignition. On thought that struck me was maybe it might have something to do with the immobiliser. As far as I know the immobiliser has not been activated on my landy as it's the base model but is it possible that the immobiliser might be temporarily activating whilst driving. Anyway thanks for your help so far, it's a really great forum. Cheers Alex

Hello everyone I have recently acquired a 2004 double cab td5 defender and have been driving around with a grin on my face since. However whilst driving the 'tank' today the engine cut out on me a few times. What happens is that the engine dies very briefly then picks up again, the glow plug and engine management lights briefly come on the dash and the temp gauge drops to far left. After a few seconds the engine kicks back in but then cuts out a few seconds later. She'll do this a few times and then carry on like nothing has happened. Does anyone have any ideas as to what might be causing this? Cheers Alex