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dangerous doug

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by dangerous doug

  1. They were in a devon4x4 kit And on the 110 yes. I am not saying they were a bad shock. just harsh off road compared to the shocks I currently have and other vehicles fitted with fox. They were great on the road and the truck handled well in the corners but as I say, Offroad I would become winded. The set up: devotech front springs standard 110 rear truck springs adrenalin front arms extended gigglepin rear arms with a 3” creeper joint 3” creeper on the a frame using a mix of genuine bushes and poly bushes so make of that what you will. Should also point out mine is a single cab pick up, no bed floor or ribs, ali V8, no chequer plate, hd bumpers or steering guard and I don’t bolt all the usual landrover assisiated tat on to the car so it is “light” compared to other vehicles fitted with this kit. They diddnt work for me as an Offroad shock
  2. They are mounted shaft up but I believe they are soposedto be shaft down. The construction of the kit won’t let me run them any other way so i can’t try it out
  3. The new rough country shocks arnt the best. I’ve been told by David at llama that 95% of the Land Rover people run them upside down which is why people don’t rate them. I have an rac kit on my 110 with rc2.0 shocks which is designed to have the shocks upside down and I don’t rate the kit or the shocks. But for the price I’m not sure it can be beaten unless you want to make your own using a decent shock next time I’ll be getting a fox bypass of some description. My dad is using shorter fox smoothies on his D2 and it rides better on road and off road i did also run OME shocks for a while and while they were brilliant on the road but very harsh Offroad and aggravated my back problems the other alternative is terrafirma but I’ve heard nothing but bad things about these shocks. Even their mega sport kit has been known to leak after a short ammount of use hth
  4. Depends on what you’ll be doing with the car but unless your doing speed events I would just put 1 good shock on
  5. Input shafts are different lengths and 5th gear but another thought crossed my mind….. bare with me as I am not a child of the 70s so don’t know the do’s and dont’s but just leave the over drive in?
  6. Not exactly high revving then. Might want to have a look at a bigger tyre or you can go to an r380 with the V8 od 5th gear same set up with a V8 r380
  7. Set up with Rrc/disco lt77 1.003:1 lt230 7.08 diffs (3.54x2) 36.5 tyre if you ran 40s then it would drop rpm by around 500. What engine are you running as the gearing will greatly depend on that
  8. Drop box ratio is 2:1 diff ratio is 3.54:1 if you run a 1:1 transfer box with big tyres then it’ll be “ok” on the road and give similar gearing to a defender but with a much lower Lowratio
  9. I’m not sure but I think I looked at fitting a seal on the outside of the knuckle face. It’s the only spot you can really get a seal in because of the land the bronze bush rides on. do not modify that bush, there is quite a lot of load on them
  10. Mine diddnt. But if you can get them in the front it’s not a bad idea, the bronze bush gives out and oil leaked out at the cv at an alarming rate on side slopes
  11. May have you beat on this one…that’s an m12 on the flank of the nut😂
  12. @Hybrid_From_Hell you still have those bolts I gave you😂
  13. Stephen, I have been involved with building a few “spiders” which are transverse engine 4ws mog axle tube frames with 1-links. One used a creeper joint and the other used a landrover radius arm bush(chassis end) both worked well with negligible differences but the creeper joint was probably the better bet. Both had 1-links front and rear welded directly to the axle with no issues. Both had skid plates which also reenforced the 1-link. Not saying it’s a better bet…just simpler but your argument to fit hockey sticks at a later date if the 1link doesn’t work carrys a lot of weight and I 100% support that. As I have eluded I also have a set of portals that will eventually make it under my 110 after I’ve finished rebuilding a mini….I was going to go down the 1 link route but after seeing how well my dads D2 flexed with jointed Adrenalin arms I couldn’t sacrifice the stability for the extra couple of inches of movement which I doubt I’ll ever use in the uk and/or any events I may attend over seas. Another option you have made for yourself is potentially having 2 setups for the front. Depending on where your going or what you’re doing you could change to suite Is the lab still a thing?!
  14. When I started doing this many many years ago I used D2 front arms as they have a bit more room between the bushes
  15. Would you be interested in potentially doing a second set?
  16. I promise you now, they are heavier than they look. To the point where my plan was to do what soren did and weld a mog flange on the end of a landy axle with the diff upside down. I’ve got one tacked together but can’t do a propper test fit with the shafts in place. Nige has got some 2.88 ring and pinions on the shelf with my name on to make the gearing a bit more sensible too...
  17. What page is that on @Daan? I wouldn’t mind having a look
  18. I did look into doing that myself but decided is wasn’t doable. Clearly I was wrong and I’m now sad I got rid of my mog diffs
  19. Nice work, I think @landroversforever may want a look at the spacers
  20. I remember somewhere that it must exit behind the rearmost opening window
  21. In short, I don’t. There’s a lot of stuff out there telling you where you can and can’t drill/cut and as per the internet, one thing contradicts the other. I worked on the principal of not removing too much behind where the engine mounts bolt as if I did have a frontal impact with something the frame would crush upto the engine anyway. the other thing I wanted to try but diddnt have the balls to do incase it ruined the look and did nothing practice was to alternate the direction of the flairs of the dimple dies. Couldn’t quite work out if that would do anything or not... anyway, some examples of working subframes which give me confidence that mine will be ok. Some of these are basically spider webs....
  22. we are actually under! There is still more meat to lose so I may crack the drill out over the weekend we’ll have to agree to disagree on that. Some people cut a strip off of them reducing their length by around 5-6mm. Probably would have saved more doing this but It would be tricky to make it look good. the twist that those flanges would have taken out of the frame has been superseded by the gussets from the cone towers to the front of the frame (they are welded to the flange and to the top face of the frame where the bottom gusset meets the underside) and the boxing of the front crossmember
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