dangerous doug

pitbulls are a snazzy looking tyre. But as you say, wide! there was a guy running them on his challenge truck many years ago and he seemed to do ok. those radial treps would serve a purpose in getting you a taller tyre with more side wall but would you regret it later? another option to consider…

Ah hold up. There are 3 types! bias ply, radials and sticky’s. I’m pretty sure the radials are the less aggressive road bias tyre without the side lugs and they(imo) are totally pointless

Couldn’t say how deep really….30-40mm maybe? Deep enough to class it as aggressive and make it stand out. The sidewall lugs are what makes them good though

Tyres would touch in the middle, no?😂

Ed, if you want shot of it send me a dm with what you’re after for it and I’ll see what I can do

I have been looking at mills. A friend sent me a link to a £600 Bridgebort(probably clapped out at that price) but I’m going to hold off buying new machines untill I have all the tooling I want neeed for the lathe. Top of the list for that at the moment is just tool holders for the quick change tool post. Ross very nicely saved aload of tooling from the skip for me so I have all the tool steel I need( @landroversforever if you wish to post evidence of a fair trade, feel free😂) …..so much so that it’s rendered the qctp useless as I only have 3 holders so have to change out anyway. Also need a 4 jaw…..I think the 3 jaw has been over tightened a lot as the jaws look a little bent….so new 3 jaw, spindle grinder or just get a 6 jaw…. any way, all of that translates to no mill at the moment, would be very nice and is not off the cards but would rather get the axles done and the 110 out again. theres also a td5 and an LS sitting on stands that keep looking at me😂

or 2 threads with very similar titles😂

I’ve noticed This is the curse of the machining world….you have the mill/lathe/both, then you want need this…but then you want need that and before you know it you’re eating instant noodles for the rest of the month😂 I think I’m on track for getting back to the axle project. This weekend has been spent clearing out the work space, playing musical cars and filling up an 8yd skip(and needing another) Out for the first time in years. My mate said he would help with the clear out aslong as he got to listen to radio2 and pressure wash the 110….he went back on the pressure washing part until he diddnt. Pictures good friends doing good friends stuff Tyres have to come down to get it under the garage door….inflated them yesterday and came back to this. this is what I’m most happy about though, everything’s in a line, in a usable space and I’m not climbing over stuff….oh yeah, the 110 is where the mini was and now taking priority Just missing a drink..

Oh my! this mean I don’t have to carry on with my manual shaper conversion?😂

They both have their place. I find the grinder coming out a lot more but as Stephen says, the complex shapes and accessibility can’t really be beaten. Look at it like you have a gas axe but without the bottles. also, rtech let you do monthly payments at 0%. It’s how I got my plasma and It diddnt particularly hurt

Cheers mate, appreciate that. I will let you know beginning of next week👍

Ah, I diddnt know that. I’m sure I can work something out though also. Tickled it with the grinder and it now fits. Still need to knock the corners off and make it look a bit more presentable the bracket is 20mm thick and the steering arm is 30mmx50. Obviously the arm still needs shaping. And will be secured by 2 m16 bolts. Just trying to decide on weather to drill the tapered hole for the landrover TRE or a straight hole and use a rose joint. Could also use another mog TRE I guess

The minor diameter of the mog shafts is larger than the major diameter of the landrover shafts so there’s plenty of meat there. Getting to the stage where I might just weld them together so I can atleast test😂 you are spot on though, the issue raised was the hardening. I’m not metallurgist but I was under the impression you could somewhat normalise steel and then re harden. an example of re splined and new shafts standard shafts @Soren Frimodts welded shaft which apparently held up well

Yeah it was 1600 plus vat from design and development. Which isn’t that bad for massive custom Shafts but would rather have the existing shafts cut as I know it can and has been done and it’ll also save me a few quid.

I’ve just sent him A message

I know a guy local to me with a set for sale. Can work out a deal and go half’s if you want?

I’ve not really done anything with them mate. End of March is the big move around so I’ve been concentrating on getting stuff up on dollys or in a space where it won’t be in the way. The “horseshoe” for the steering arm is nearly done though. Just needs a final tickle with the grinder to pretty it up but I’m deliberately not doing it because I’ll get distracted and end up not having time to do the things that need doing……like all the lathe tooling and drill stuff I’ve acquired over the past few moths that’ll all need a storage solution😂 By the end of April (most likely before) there will be a post worthy update though. I have all the material for the caliper brackets, trusses and spring mounts just staring at me. I think I have it all figured out…just the halfshafts that are being problematic as no one can cut splines or if they can, they don’t want to machine down the shafts and re cut splines.

Clearing out the work space. Welded the rear of the mini up and put it on a dolly so it can be moved to the back. defender is getting pulled out and going roughly where the mini is now. I’ve cut a hi-steer mount for the steering arm but I diddnt think that would be worth much of an update.

It’s up and running! I diddnt go down the phase converter route in the end, I called transwave and had a long chat with a man who actually knew what he was talking about and he basically said the only way you can run the m300 to its full range was with a rotary converter as the statics won’t cope with the top speed. I really diddnt want to dump all that cash into it right now so went back to square one and got a new VFD. This time round it’s a Parker drive AC10. Another drive I have a little experience with and they seem to be ok. The trade off has become clear very fast though. The torque isn’t there so I am limited to fairly small cuts. But it’s fine, it works! my YY control cable diddnt arrive until I got to the workshop so the control circuit was all SY cable which got confusing at times with everything being the same 3 colours. Being curious to the next guy incase it’s actually wired to 3 phase again Diddnt really take many photos from here on as I just wanted to play. Did make a new top nut for the tool post so I can go for the 2 leaver set up others do. not sure if this is just a thing you have to do or if something else is off but I had to put a dti on everything I I put in the chuck as the runout was insane. is what it is and dealt with it. Nut is done complete with chamfers(because were civilised people) and I’ll be putting a handle on it tomorrow. Need to work on surface finish. I’m assuming it’s because I’m going a bit slow and using carbide inserts at the moment bot sure if I’m happy with the height, mite take a bit off the top tomorrow. All in all a nice little project. I’ve ordered a little bearing to go under it which I think will make a difference and it’ll protect the nut at the top. And possibly give more clamping force? Little message I left for the next guy at work….thought it may be relevant here too😂

I was under the impression that all ac motors were basically 3 phase motors with a start capacitor between W1 and W2 known as a steinmetz connection (found the correct spelling). It works but you Lose 1/3 of the torque….im not running an industrial work shop here so this isn’t a big deal and I can do it down stream of the motor. This is also what I suspect those DPS boxes are. I have priced this up and it’s going to be about £100 for mid range parts but we shall see what happens as I’m talking to a man about a phase converter now…..but that is basically the above drawing with more of the same in it. im happy to be wrong about the single phase motor though. I havnt really worked on them and have never been in one to take a look, just upstream fault finding to make it work

Did a bit more digging and this is only good for a 230v motor did stumble across this though https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pc-40-3-5hp-phase-converter/

Am aware of the noise from the rotary converters which is why I’m looking at the static ones. this is an alternative https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283812247889?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jrumxrpurbc&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=WZUdkjFXQ3K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY it says it’s digital somehow but by the description I suspect that this is just a capacitor in a fancy box using phase shift

Much like a trailer, vehicle lift, tig welder or lathe…..you’re always popular if you have a 3phase generator😂

75k workshop is in the middle of nowhere so a lot of work would need to be done