Jump to content

Seth

Settled In
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Seth

  1. cheers they're the blade type new wire time me thinks and if i find a mouse at the back of the dash it's going to pay thanks again will keep you informed Seth
  2. further info for your consideration If I put a live to the "green wire" at the flasher unit and indicate the indicators flash. does that mean the live wire from the fuses to the indicator unit is faulty? and if so, which wire is it? If not any ideas? cheers
  3. Hi Chaps, New indicator unit arrived and fault remains the same. Any other thoughts greatly appreciated? Cheers, Seth
  4. well it's not been replaced yet soooo still time for more questions but not so much me solving the problem (v kind of you) more me asking questions and being told what to do next And Western the puller on flea Bay looks excellent and ordered ty (much cheaper than a new wheel) probably be next weekend now before next raft of questions Cheers Seth
  5. Couldn't ask for a more helpful forum ty ppl. Cheers Western for the vid... and "oh thats normal for a Defender" seems to be a very common phrase lol I will now get the bloody indicator unit ordered and try not to destroy the steering wheel (although I expect it will take some damage before the jobs done thanks again Seth
  6. I have used an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment (if rust is not too bad, just a sanding disk is ok) then hammerite smooth (black) 2 coats (i think it has a five year Gtee) and it appears to be ok. there may be better products, i'm not sure tbh, but it is easy to get hold of from B&Q etc and about £50 for 10ltrs (enough for the whole chassis) or small pots for £10 ish.
  7. I have tested the loom and all indicators light if power supplied from flasher unit connections. I have disconnected the purple wire from the indicator stalk and the hazards now flash but on the dash, it is the trailer indicator panel that flashes? btw the plastic circlip type thing, which connects the indicator/ lights/ wiper unit to the steering column has snapped allowing unit to spin on column but when plastic cover on it holds it in place. I am guessing that it is the indicator unit but would appreciate your thoughts re the trailer dash light flashing not the indicator diplay before I replace? If it is the indicator unit do I have to remove the steering wheel to replace? if anyone is close to Tameside with a spare unit I would be happy to buy you beer as always thanks for all the help it is greatly appreciated Seth
  8. ty chaps will test once rain stops
  9. Indicators are all out but bulbs and fuses ok If I put hazards on, nowt happens (no clicking noise or light) , if I try the indicator stalks nothing (with or without the engine on) but if I put the hazards on (with engine running) and the put the indicator on left or right, the hazards flash. I made a similar tester as per Lukes guide http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...itch+indicators and when I connect the purple (permantent supply) to the Green and White (right indicator) or the Green and Red (left indicator) the 3A (tester) fuse blows each time (indicator light on dash lights for a split second, not sure if indicators light as not able to move fast enough ) further info: I guessed it may be a short and there was some old wiring for spot lights behind the grill. I disconnected all the wires from the black (solenoid?) box fastened near the radiator and taped off the blue wire from the back of the right main headlight (which work). Can't see any thing else that looks split, frayed or hanging loose. many thanks Seth
  10. As you may have guessed this is my first landy and I have had it about a month (so complete newb) so its hard to say... what I can say its not sharp like the works car but doesnt seam to drift anywhere when driven
  11. Missed out vital bit on my original post sry... "when brake is applied" I have no movement 12.00 6.00 but 3.00 to 9.00 I can still rock it (i.e the front comes towards you and the back goes away at the same time and vice versa). (cheers Milemaker) From the v helpful posts i am getting it's the track rod ends sigh
  12. Cheers people the movement is if you push the wheel edge towards the engine and then back ie at right angles to the vehicle, rather than movement in line with the vehicle ie towards the front bumper and back bumper. I will get my not so happy helper (the missus) to give me a hand this week end and have a look at the track rod ends cheers again Seth
  13. Having followed white90's excellent guide to replacing the front bearings, I still have a little play When I grab the tyre at 3.oo and 9.00 and give it a wiggle, the wheel has a little latteral movement approx 1- 2mm but when I grab the wheel at 12.00 and 6.00 and wiggle, it is rock solid. I have re checked overtightened and re torqued the hub nuts but still there is some sideways play. (not sure if wheel was solid when grabbed at 12.00 and 6.00 before I changed the bearings, but the movement is the same as before when held at 3.00 and 9.00) No doubt I replaced the wrong bearings. thanks for any help Seth
  14. Excellent help everyone. As the mud rails site was down at the time and thanks to your advice, I bought some box section and a couple of bolts. FYI I used 8mm bolts, 2x 75mm and 2 x 50mm and 35 x 20 x 1.5 metre box section, which was more than enough prob 1 metre is enough but please measure first just in case) I cut two lengths of section approx .5 metre long, I drilled 9 mm holes (to give a little tollerence) using the seat base as a guide. I lifted the rear end of the seat by putting a short (drilled) section of the box section underneath the new length, to give double the height at the back and bolted down through both sections with the 75mm length bolts. This way I kept the front lower to allow my legs under the steering wheel easily (a few washers were also required). Before final assembly I painted the box section with hammerite (and the seat, seat base and the metal plate that fits over the hole under the seat ), greased the seat runners and bolted them all back in place, I even gave the seat covers a scrub It was a little fiddly and you have to saw and drill stuff, but not too much effort overall, prob about 3 hours, not inc paint drying time. Driving position is now excellent, I can reach the hand brake ok, cost about £15 (not inc hammerite). Box section, washers or see Kev from Mud Rails it is up to you! but if you are over five foot six and want to be able to drive for longer than 20 mins then they're a must. Once again thanks to all that posted and I hope this is of help to others. Seth Cough.. No warranty as to saftey given .
  15. cheers all for the v usefull advice Mud Rails appear to be just what I need I will give them a call on Monday ty all Seth
  16. I am guessing that the seat position was set for 1950's height man (or more probably not given much thought) anyhoo being a bit over 6 foot, old and with shot knees, I was wondering if anyone knows the best way to adjust the seat height? Ideally a scissor lift type affair would be the best option but being a tight arse, I was thinking of using either 2 lengths of box section or 4 blocks (being cheaper still ) of said box section as a spacer? If any of you have any suggestions / experience of raising the seat or importantly of people who have been maimed/ killed in doing so, could you please let me know. Cheers PPL Seth
  17. Hi Wikus I have found paddock spares to be very reasonable and I have had no delivery issues (that said I am in the UK) http://www.paddockspares.com/ They deliver to Europe and the States so I am guessing they will deliver to SA. With regard the VAT: sorry I dont know but I am sure they will advise according to their preferred methods You can email them and ask from their contacts page theyre a big company so should be safe (I am not suggetsing you will have any delivery problems with the firms you mention though and no I dont have any shares in the company but found them to be the cheapest most times I checked for stuff) Good Luck Seth
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy