Jump to content

Deface

Settled In
  • Posts

    139
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    ethansmith@hotmail.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    newport pagnell
  1. Remove under shield Clean the area around the transmission fluid level/filler plug. Remove the transmission fluid filler/level plug.(This is situated near the nearside driveshaft, looks like a normal hex bolt possibly 17mm) Fill the transmission with the correct fluid until it runs from the level/filler plug. Install the front undershield. Hope this has helped you, sorry for the late reply and lack of pics. ethan
  2. This is for an auto, i will post the manual one shortly. Ensure that the automatic transmission is in 'P' and the handbrake is fully applied. Clean the area around the transmission fluid filler plug. Remove the transmission fluid filler plug.(I can't copy the picture to illustrate this, the filler plug is situated on top of the gearbox under the air box in the engine bay it looks like it may be a alan key or a torx bolt) Remove the front undershield. Clean the area around the transmission fluid level plug. Place a container under the transmission. Add 0.5 litres of transmission fluid. Install the transmission fluid filler plug. Torque: 40 Nm Start and run the engine to operating temperature. NOTE: The fluid level plug and drain plug both use the same point on the transmission. The inner plug is the level indication and the outer plug is to drain the fluid. Remove the transmission fluid level plug.(This is situated underneath on the gearbox, the level plug is as it says above in the centre of the drain piont, they both look like either alan or torx bolts) With the engine running a small amount of fluid should drip out of the level plug. Install the transmission fluid level plug. Torque: 7 Nm Install the front undershield.
  3. I dont know if there is a downloadable version out there, but what i do know is that the manuals the dealers use are online but only accessible by technicians at the dealers. I have access to these manuals so if there is something you need to know I MAY be able to copy it on to here (depending if i can get my computer to do it). hope this helps ethan
  4. The l322s have a monococh type shell, so if you wanted to body split one it would involve an angle grinder
  5. Once you start taking the engines to pieces you start seeing peugeot citreon badges stamped in all the parts.
  6. Im thinking of doing this conversion aswell so im interested in the answers to these questions also. But i was thinking of using a r380 gearbox, ive always thought a lt77 woudnt be able to cope with the power from a 4.6 especially if its been tweaked.
  7. Yeh we are replacing like for like, i dont think anyone has tried putting a td5 in a rrs so I think you would be the first the hybrid idea sounds interesting though. The main issues with replacing an engine with the body in situe is space around the bellhousing theres just no easy way of getting to the bell housing bolts, and ounce there undone theres not alot of room to get the engine out. I kind of wanna get one runing with the body off and drive it, it would be like a tdv8 powered skateboard
  8. We dont take the body off for clutches on the D3s its easy enough to do it without. You can do turbos without aswell but only on tdv6s. There not that bad to do really they are designed to come apart. We have probably done about 20 this year for engines, turbos and 1 for a sheared injection pump belt tensioner bolt. I blame it on those french engines
  9. Yeh you can do it the normal way but its so awkward its not worth the hassle, we can usually get the body off in around 3 hours.
  10. Hi all, just thought I would share with you some pics i have of what we have to do at my work when replacing and engine on a disco3/4 or a range rover sport. Its a little different to my defender Hopefully here are the pics.
  11. Ok cheers dan , im thinking bout going mud monsters tomorrow, i know its in sussex but i dont know exactly where, could i have the address? I take it spectators are allowed?? Ethan
  12. @dirtyninety i agree with what your saying and i have seriously thought about doing exactly that but what has always stopped me selling is, it was my first car and ive always got abit sentimental when thinking about getting rid, im not making my mind up anytime soon and will probably wait until billing so i can get some ideas on what to do. @yella90 i am based in newport pagnell near milton keyens. Id love to go and watch some events but im sort of out of the loop when it comes to knowing/finding out when and where they take place.
  13. Ok thats something i didnt know, by shallow do you mean if i was to mearsure the side of a disco chassis rail and 90 chassis rail they would be different? Is there really that much difference to effect the break over a noticable amount? I understand what your saying about competeing and your right, i probably should of done that when i had the car working but its past the piont of no return in the dismantling process now, and my other 90 is in was too good nick to compete in i think. I was never thinking i could build a fully kitted challenge truck and then compete with everyone that had been doin it for ages, what i was thinking was mayby build the basics of what i wanted chassis, engine, suspension etc, then from there start competeing and then add/change things as i go and hopefully work my way up to bigger events.
  14. @dirtyninety surely as offroading goes a disco chassis and a strectched 90 chassis are not that different. A 90s suspension and a discos suspension are the same so what would be the need for the redesign? i would use gigglepin arms on both chassis and i would gain from extending the rear a frame for the reasons mentioned by muddy. Surely if both chassis are 100" and both have engine, body etc in the same place the COG and clearance will be the same? am i missing something?
  15. @muddy the 90 in question i have had for 4 years and has mainly been my only car and has been used and abused offroad so all the body work is battered and not worth keeping IMHO plus the engine has issues, the gearbox has been used for my other 90, the bulkhead and doors are rotten and axles are being rebuilt to again go on my other 90, but chassis is good (about the only thing ). My intension is to eventually compete, but Ive never competed before which is why i am unsure on mods etc. For me building the truck will be as much fun as driving it but at the end of it want a competative truck hence all the approach angle type questions. Ive had a look through the members vehicle forum at all the challenge truck builds which is where i have got most of my ideas from, but there are a few ideas i have of my own that i need know if they possible or not as the case my be.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy