xychix

will have another look tomorrow, i needed a small success after fighing with various stuff. So i gave the air filter a permanent place. Used the disco brackets (bending and cutting involved) and some threaded bar m6. sits rock solid now. and opening is in the right direction to meet my snorkel at the entry of the just removed heater and fan (hell that was a fight as the inserted crimp nuts came loose and it's hard to reach with hacksaw or anglegrinder)

pretty sure that isn't the case as this setup did work correctly for a while and got me trough french MOT with compliments on the balance in breaking.

Hi David, Thanks for the clarification. I've fitted that UP28 meself after removing the 2.25di and placing a 200di (non turbo) engine. Also the defender 90 master brake cylinder should be next to equal to the series 109 only with another bias and displacement as the def90 has discs at front and drums at rear, i quite deliberately choose that over the 110 cylinder (which I believe to have brand new in stock as well.)

yes original 109. yep lifting by hand works and then it stays there. Assume that if the brakes aren't dragging it should be ok ish. However for the switch to turn open in the current pedal end position i'd have to fabricate a new bracket that allows for the pedal to sit ~3mm lower. The switch is already at max setting. This feels however as solving the wrong problem.... the pedal should return. Does the Brake Servo have a task in this?

My series III 109 brakes nice with a zeus front disc brake kit (original brakes at the rear) and with a new def 90 master cylinder. However the pedal doesn't nicely return which in turn means I'm driving with my brake lights on (and the vacuum Hella UP28 I've attached with a relay to that same wiring.) What would normally cause the pedal to really return? the 2 springs on the pedal? of also something in de big drum directly behind the pedal?

lol really, i've got one lying around after converting to EP28 vacuum.

Thanks. Don't fancy removing the sump at this moment A few shims on the mount might be enough for now.

placed it the other way around and drove the car up a pile of rocks with the right wheel until i was slipping front left and rear right. Seems to touch just about... might be just good enough.

62.5 cm streched to the max (*gaitor already removed) 57 cm push al the way in to hard lock.

will do, although extended length will be limited by the gaitor.

yes i have. propshaft was out under 5 minutes. Also got pictures from Arjan, he seems to have no gaitor, might wear a bit quicker and need more grease.. also 'bakwards' with the inner part of the propshaft gearbox side and the outerpart axle side. Oficially both propshafts (front and rear) have the inner part, and thereby the gaitor) towards the front of the vehicle afaik.

thanks gazzar, you also have the propshaft 'the other way around'. Wil go that same route. Normally the Gaiter is towards the front of the propshaft.

I'll put it in the other way around and find a place to fully lift the right front wheel and drop the left front wheel. That should bring me in the 'danger zone' Likely that also where the gaiter got torn, did do some off-roading as part of my drive test trough deep holes.

Had another good look. indeed the shaft van be mounted backwards. that might just be enough.....

This is the hose top end, runs behind the oilfilter. The top of this can still needs to be connected to airintake.

it is mounted on series brackets bolted to the 200di engine. no welding / cutting needed other than removing the battery tray and drilling the bellhousing.

first of all a few pictures of the specific pipe. (will go back in a bit for the mountings.) I tried holding the shaft the other way around but got the idea the holes didn't line up properly.

just noticed it's not the pickup pipe but sump breather pipe thats fouling.

Did a nice 200di conversion on my 109 SIII (1979) only to find out that the front propshaft hits the oil pickup pipe/hose on the 200di. The rubber of the propshaft joint is leaking now so I took the propshaft out. I'm considering putting it back in the other way around (as the flanges arent the same I'd have to undo the uni joints and remake the shaft the other way around. Anyone else ever got this issue? possible solutions?

it appears my 10v supply unit is nowhere to be found. Will rebuild my own 10v supply. Also the rubber of the front propshaft is rubbing on the sump oil pickup pipe. Might try and fit the propshaft the other way around to avoid this....

I had my disco thermostat below all the series thermostat housing parts. Ditched that and placed the series thermostat between the top and middel part of the housing. Now all seems better, however I mist have broken a wire doing some electrical jobs as I now have temp meter AND diesel gauge not moving at all

did a 5km test today. worked great. Do need the engine to get to temp to do oil flush of al the carp. Therefore I'd need atleast a closing thermostate (now it appears to be stuck open). But other than that I feel road worthy. Lights and stuff are all back working. Before next summer the fan would be nice as an insurance.

yep, the misfiring is gone. oil level was quite high and got a bit high. A bigger exhaust would cost a fair bit, seems to be driving like this (and believe its done like this quite often...?) Only option would be to 'build' my own exhaust, Would then also consider reusing the 200 exhaust manifold (did mange to get the turbo off in 1 piece)

Well all, that took almost 1,5 years. The 200di is in. Just did a first drive of 5km's on tarmac up to 60km/h. Purrs like a kitten, the kids didn't even hear me leave the property and no cows died of the smoke. fokkin' happy with this. Few last tidy up things: - wire glowplugs - test / replace thermostat (now open all the time) - wire the BMW temperature switch (85-89c) i bought from Estonia for only 12 euro's to trigger electric the fan relay - mount the fan - fix the airfilter into position runs like a dream!

thanks, actually putting the leaf back the other way around was a bad excuses for a not perfect fitting polybush. I pressed out the center with a home made diy press and redid the job with more grease. Put the spring in the same way it came out and aligned it. Hoped to support the chassis so i could move the equipement to the right side, however give the limited number of axle stands I decided to wait for the parts, first finish left and then move right.