Raife

Hi John My 1992-1994 RRC Parts Catalogue has "Mirror Interior" listed under BODY AND CHASSIS" in Diagrams 615 to 617. Various types and various model numbers depending on LHS or RHS, with just map lamps or with map lamps and Auto-Dim function. But the part you are looking for is not listed as a separately-available item...... in fact there is a footnote which says " It is not possible to replace windscreen slug in service". I guess the "slug" is the bit that glues to the windscreen and is the bit you need. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but you may find the part you need from Independents, even though it may involve buying the entire mirror assembly! Personally, I would be looking for someone who is breaking a RRC and would be prepared to prise the old slug off a windscreen for a reasonable price..... either that or have one fabricated.....? Good luck.

Esibleed is good ~ helps to keep your brake fluid reservoir full but doesnt really pressurise the system too much to assist bleeding. IMHO the keyword is abs ~ so so different from bleeding a system conventionally. It took me a couple of hours to bleed my 1993 RRC brakes by carefully following the 14 paragraphs in the Workshop Manual !! I had changed the discs, calipers and all pipes so it was completely empty... And I had to bleed it twice before I felt a decent pedal. But that was a year ago and my brakes are still awesome. Basically, the order is to bleed the 4 hydrostatic circuit screws on the front calipers (lower), then the hydraulic pump, accumulator and hydraulic booster (cycling the ignition on and off on the last two). Then move to the power circuit (upper bleed screws) on all four calipers, next is the master cylinder then back to the beginning and do the 4 hydrostatic circuit bleed screws again. I know it is one hell of a complicated procedure so it is worth checking carefully to make sure you didn't miss a step! Good luck with it.

Hi ... I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have late 1993 Classic Vogue 3.9 SE auto with a true 57k miles, regularly serviced etc. It runs beautifully ~ at least it did until Saturday morning!! The vehicle was used with absolutely no problems the night before but now refuses to start. The battery is fine, the fuel tank is half full and the engine spins well on the starter but will not cough, splutter or run. I am still in the 1960's when it comes to problems like this so just started checking for fuel, sparks and any obvious loose connections. The fuel inertia cut-off switch was down in the right position but I found that Fuse C3 [10amps..ignition coil?] had blown. I replaced the fuse, recharged the battery and had another go. Still spinning but not running. And now another strange problem ~ when I turn the ignition key off, the dash display stays on .... fuel and temperature gauges still registering, ABS, ETC, Ignition and Oil Pressure warning lights still on. And the only way I can get them to turn off is to remove Fuse C3 !! I am a little baffled and think I will have to solve this problem before getting back to the main non-starting issue. Has anyone experienced this before? Any suggestions? Many thanks Raife

OE high level stop lamp is a fairly expensive option. There was a light unit alone that sold on eBay for around £140 without all the other bits you would need to connect it ~ someone has conveniently listed these with indicative prices on another forum : http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1...ad62c3223a0d04b. Hope this helps Raife

Interesting topic. During the recent refurbishment of my '94 RRC I have used the internet a lot for ordering parts ~ some of the sites are better than others but you can normally find what you want. I must have spend close on £2k over the last couple of months and, in my experience Paddock have never let me down. Rimmer have a long-winded ordering process but get there eventually. Best for me has been lrseries.com with a user-friendly site, good stock range, prompt delivery and reasonably competitive prices. And the worst? Has to be lrdirect.com where for a £200 order I have waited 3 months and still received nothing despite phone calls, promises etc...be warned! Raife

Thanks, Steve So, it seems we have the O/S sorted out ~ my Port 26 connection will go to the inboard caliper connection which leaves the outboard connecting [as you describe] to Port 24. And Port 25 does go to the N/S ~ as does the connection from Port 23. But does your EPC answer the inboard/outboard question for this pair? Also, is it possible to download a copy of this EPC from somewhere? Many thanks for your help Raife

Hi all Its a bit embarrasing to kick off my first post with a dumb question - but here goes! A few weeks ago I started a total refurb of the front axle, air suspension, brakes etc on my 1994 RRC. I am now doing the final assembly but unfortunately [or predictably!], during the strip-down I had to disconnect seized front brake lines right back at the ABS hydraulic booster unit. Problem is I have now lost the notes I made at the time to ensure I connected them up properly again! Duh...!! Although the outlet ports and pipes are numbered at the booster end, there is no such help available at the "business end" and my interpretation of diagrams in my LR workshop manual leaves me less than confident... So, can anybody PLEASE help me with these detailed, but fairly straightforward questions for a right-hand drive vehicle with ABS and ETC? 1. There is a rigid brake line from Port 26 on the ABS booster to the offside front wheel arch where it is connected via a flexible hose to one of the two rigid lines on the o/s caliper. Does it connect to the inboard line (closest to the axle) or to the outboard line (closest to the wheel)? 2. Same question ~ but from Port 25 on the abs booster to the nearside front caliper. Again, does it connect via the flexible hose to the inboard or outboard line on the caliper? If somebody with a similar vehicle can lift the bonnet and peek under the arches to give me the answers I need, I would be VERY grateful... Thanks Raife