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BoatBuoy

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Everything posted by BoatBuoy

  1. Yup andersens are best. They do tend to corrode a bit with road carp, so will need working in and out when you need to use them. Also worth putting a cut-out / isolator switch by the battery just incase the cables rub or you need to turn them off in an emergency. You can get the connectors from Vehicle wiring products or RS.
  2. Well I just hope it is as easy as it's made out to be or I think it is... It's just once I've hacked a 1/5th off the back of SWMBO's dad's 90 with a grinder I've sort of committed myself to something. It's not like I can say well, it was rotten anyway!
  3. I'm looking to get a new rear cross member for a stock 1988 90 diesel. No need for winch bumper or anything fancy, just want an off the shelf unit. So.... Which is the best one to get? Why is it better than the rest? Where should I get it from and how much? I know of the bearmach and britpart ones, but don't know anything about of them. I had a look at Les's quick choppy-chop guide and it looks ok to do, just want some feedback on the make that will make my life easiest
  4. But looking at the list of exemptions, there was not an obvious category for the Environment Agency on routine business. I know that it said flood work was exempt, but we do do other stuff too.
  5. But if you are carrying a lawnmower does that count as goods?
  6. I do wonder where this puts utility companies or folks like the Environment Agency. What is the definition of "Goods" and say you two a box van 100 miles from base for work, but it just contains tools, I wonder if it required a tacho since the combined weight is 6100kg. One for the fleet manager to investigate I think if he hasn't already.
  7. Personally I would use a pole for on road use, much safer and you don't get a snapping action. Not only that but if you are recovering some random lone person, you don't need to worry about them rear-ending your 90 when they find their brakes don't work. Offroad, bit of rope as suggested.
  8. i know it's all staged, but they do seem to be making a meal of it.
  9. I'm thinking of a word beginning with "R"...
  10. What do you want to do with it really? Do you want to just have some fun, or do you want to be competative. I know people say that "driver skill" is a major factor in doing well, but the chap who can gently nudge against a tree to get the right angle because he doesn't care about bodywork or can thrape it up a slope because he doesn't need halfshafts, CV's or diffs to work quite as the manufacturer intended come monday morning, has quite an advantage. Anyway, welcome to the forum!
  11. I haven't heard that the tow vehicle should be empty, although I guess it should be safe, but I know for my test I was told to have an empty trailer. This is also stated on the DVLA website.
  12. Work sponsored me through my B+E over a year ago or so. I did a solid two day course then took the test two days later. Used a 110 & twinaxle 10ft box van and passed first time. As has been said, you are expected to drive at the standard of the normal car license throughout the test, as well as not clippping a kerb with the trailer, as you would expect. You really need to spend a little time with an instructor, so so you do thing like the coupling/uncoulping in the very strict correct manner. I was fortunate, and had a great examiner, who was realistic, and not too harsh. I hung my head out the window for the reverse 'h' bit and that was fine, aslong as you remember to check the other side frequently. Don't care what any trucker says, it is by far the easiest way if you are reversing to the right. With regard to mirrors, since you are towing a box trailer, you need a set of caravan mirrors set up for the instructor/examiner.
  13. Another thing that happened on mine was the bit of nylon that goes round the striker catch had started to wear. Could never get the door to shut properly, so just cut it off. Job done.
  14. Sounds like it would just go/could be a possibility. Suggests it worth a try and some further investigation anyway. Cheer chap! I've been to Bampton/7s a couple of time with the Forum, but since selling my 110, I only have the works vehicle, & I think they'd have some thing to say if I took that out... it a tad conspicuous.
  15. Yeah I guess I am... this is the unit I am trying to fit in. Fits well between the wheel arches. I was wondering if the hulls might fit between seat legs or whatever the seat base is made of. The boat is 6-8" high, although there is a taper. I could take a look down at Taunton LR, but I always feel guilty when I know the sale will be going to Youngs down at Saltash, and I know they wouldn't appreciate me trying to fit the boat in the back of a demo unit. As an aaside, I went to Guy Salmon in Bristol yesterday, not a single defender at the dealers!
  16. We're looking to get a 110 County Station Wagon Utility at work. I need to get a piece of equipment that is 1.2m long in it. Looking at the specs, looks like the bed is about 1.1m. Could anyone take a photo of the back of the 110 to show what the rear seat base looks like from the rear. I attached the photo I need, but of a hard top. I'm also wondering if the seats are vertical or if the taper towards the front like the bulkhead of a 110 hardtop. I would look at a dealers, but we are buying this one mail order from a dealer 100 miles away.
  17. I have sent 3 cf-18s back to panasonic as a result of water ingress through the keyboard causing it to go doolally... I still like the thing though. Screen in very soft and easily marked though.
  18. Depends what you are carrying/using it for, but my standard LR cage type roofrack is decked out with 1" square wire mesh, heavily cable tied down. Very light weight and fairly strong. Easily takes my weight jumping about on it.
  19. We are just about to get one of these at work: An RC boat with a hydroacoustic head in it that measures the velocity of river flow and profiles the cross section. Admittedly we aim to measure flows of 200 m3/s rather than typical tap flow.
  20. The average RAC truck does 19 MPG. The TD is one of those engines that you either get a good one and it's great, or more likely you'll get one that goes pop at somewhere between 80-140k miles. So I'd say look for a decent rebuilt engine. Others will be along to pass their judgement.
  21. Not only that but you get to do some of the test routes too. I just did my B+E at work, one of the trickiest bits is you are expected to drive at test standard with no bad habits!
  22. I ripped the stupid plastic drain plug off my fuel filter yesterday. What a stupid place to put a filter, by the back wheel. But an m10 bolt sealed the hole.
  23. Ta Ralph... I nearly addressed this topic to you thinking you'd be the one who would answer !
  24. I have been asked to ask (by her indoors' father), if a 300tdi (defender) starter motor will fit a 2.5 TD on an '86 plate. He has been told it will but is not convinced. Currently his old one is labouring, and has been replaced a couple of times. He is sure the leads to the starter motor are all tickety-boo. Does the 300 tdi motor spin over faster or have greater torque? Cheers, Keith.
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